# General > General Knives & Blades >  Poco Bowie WIP

## pocomoonskyeyes

OK, I went to the shop this afternoon, Right after I posted in the forge thread of Crash's. To reiterate, this is the design I came up with. You can kinda' ignore the dagger for the moment(Unless you want to make one!! Feel Free to use the designs!!) This is the Bowie design I am using:

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After about an hour in the shop (Kinda' lost track of time :Innocent:  :clap: ) Anyway that is what Dottie said when she came to get me to go run around town.This is how much progress I had made......

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Really rough looking profile. But you can get a general idea. I understand how you feel Crash,canid,Frank - about it not looking good enough....yet.

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## RangerXanatos

I must say that I like it.

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## crashdive123

Nice progress.

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## Camp10

So far so good!  I like the design.

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## Ted

What ,can't think of anything bigger!.LOL 
Just kidd'n Bro,can't wait to see it progress.

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## hunter63

Looking good, planning on a full profile handle?

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## Rick

That will be one nice looking knife. I like the shape.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Thanks everyone!! Andy Roy AKA "Fiddleback" of Fiddleback Forge knives, is kinda' mentoring me over the 'Net. He hasn't seen the knife yet or my diagram either. I had some knife makers suggest for me to keep my knives to the "Basic" designs starting out. "They are 'Basic' for a reason", they told me. This is my own design though, although it resembles many other knives. BK 7 Comes to mind. I don't know if I will put the "Blood Groove" in it or not. But I drew it in to see what it would look like.

 I wanted to design something that was standard, but multi-purpose too. In a "fighting knife" the tip should be close to the center line of the handle. My tip is just a little above it, Trying to compensate to be a good skinner as well. The width of the blade should be enough to give a good grip if you use it as a scraper (A side benefit of the Blood Groove too... finger purchase)
That is 3/16"thick O-1 steel. It should have some heft,and strength. It should be tough enough to Baton with.

I would appreciate some input from some hard core hunters, as to their thoughts about using it for field dressing animals. It could, I believe be used to chop through those spots that need it.

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## welderguy

I like the handle shape, thats is going to be a nice knife. what are your planes for a handle ?

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## Ken

Nice work, Poco!   :clap: 

Hey, you don't have to rush it ya' know.  My birthday is still 9 months away.   :Innocent:

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## panch0

Looks good poco, keep it up.

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## randyt

looking good. but be careful, making knives is very addictive  :Smile:

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## your_comforting_company

Poco, I'm a hunter and skinner, and that looks like a really nice blade. I might suggest leaving the thickness on the back of the main part of the blade, and tapering it thinner from the point it clips or drops (whichever you wanna call it lol) to the tip to give you a good surface to beat on, if you need to do some hammering on it to split ribs or cut saplings, etc.
One thing I'm missing on the new knives is the saw back.. a nice set of saw teeth on the back would eliminate the need to beat on the knife for things like wood and you could probably saw down trees faster than beating on the knife to cut them down. A lot of folks talk trash about the old survival knives but the saw on them was always my favorite part even though the saw design was pretty useless as it was (teeth too big).
I wonder if it would be possible to set up finger grips _in_ the blade (kinda like brass knuckles) for scraping, etc.
I'm looking forward to your progress. Keep it simple for now and when you get better at all that is involved in knife making you can work with other suggestions and intricacies and features you want included. Good job so far bro! I like the design!

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## standingbear

Good looking knife I have mad a few from old files (O1) steel that i tempered ( softened with a torch then clamped between steel plates to let cool flat), it is easy to work with and to get heat treated. Will post my knives when I figure out how heh.
Keep up the good work and take it slow on grinding to control. :Tongue Smilie:

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## hunter63

> I would appreciate some input from some hard core hunters, as to their thoughts about using it for field dressing animals. It could, I believe be used to chop through those spots that need it.


My favorite field dressing knife is a small Buck folder, second favorite is a long narrow fixed blade, with a small hand axe to handle any thing else, (carry all three)
You don't need the big knife unless you are fixing on chopping something, and if you gotta chop it, your doing something wrong. 
Big knives are pretty much useless for working inside a chest cavity, or pelvic area, need to owrk in all kinds of directions.

I prefer a meat/bone saw, if I need to quarter and carry a big animal, unless I'm in a really big hurry (don't ask), then a small chain saw w/salad oil for bar oil, is the ticket.

Mostly when skinning, you only need to make the starting cuts, with a sharp knife, then pull, or "fist" off the hide, force your fist between the hide and carcass, some trimming is needed and a small knife is easier to control, just need to know where to cut.

A quick trip to a meat/game processing shop will tell you what the pros use, and it not a Bowie/survival/machete, mostly look like a fillete knife, and very sharp!

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## pocomoonskyeyes

H63 I guess what I am really after, is that all elusive,"Perfect knife". The One all the numpties come around looking for. Like all those threads that start out - "I'm taking just my knife and I'm gonna' survive forever". From a design stand point that is quite a challenge. What would be the "best" design? Oh I know everyone has their favorite design. But seriously, what would be the most useful knife,for as many purposes as possible. I know that there is no such thing as a "Perfect" knife. However I would like to come as close as possible. I am thinking that it would possibly be a minor variation on an existing "Basic" design. That is why I am asking these questions.

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## Ken

Poco, you may wanna' take a look at the 15th.  :Innocent: 

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...h=11&year=2010

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## hunter63

> H63 I guess what I am really after, is that all elusive,"Perfect knife". The One all the numpties come around looking for. Like all those threads that start out - "I'm taking just my knife and I'm gonna' survive forever". From a design stand point that is quite a challenge. What would be the "best" design? Oh I know everyone has their favorite design. But seriously, what would be the most useful knife,for as many purposes as possible. I know that there is no such thing as a "Perfect" knife. However I would like to come as close as possible. I am thinking that it would possibly be a minor variation on an existing "Basic" design. That is why I am asking these questions.


I hear ya, seems to be the holy grail of knives, the perfect knife.
I don't believe there is such a thing, even if it Bears $1200 custom.
More expensive/ best?

Your orginal question was in part, was directed to hard core hunters.
And although I might not be as hard core as I once was, I do kinda know what I like and what works, and why.
The answer was my opinion from a hunters point of view.


I can only attest in what I personally consider my "useful" knives, not necessarily "cool looking".

Actually my most useful is a SAK, for all round, next small folder, then general purpose, Buck fixed blade.

If in buck-skinner costume, Green river short utility knife (really do love that one, and if i had to pick one that would be the one), Bowie style big knife, and hawk.
In a different enviorment, the machette would be more practical?

IMHO the classic basic designs are just that, because they are tried and true, made and used for hundreds of years, and the designers, users seem to have a lot more practice on really surviving/living than most any of us.
They didn't have any Rambo movies back then.

We are fortunate to be affluent enough to have "cool" knives, that we really don't HAVE to use.
As far as a "fighting knife" goes, the classic Bowie would serve nicely, but I would have to be completely out of ammo, don't want to bring a knife to a gun fight.

I do enjoy see y'all efforts, creativity, hard work, learning many different skills, getting good at those skills..........You never know you might just succeed in making the perfect knife.

Didn't make these blades, but are my favorites......different tools for different jobs. Green river-small, bowie-big, hawk chopping....revolver for keeping other knife fighters far enough away, so I don't have to use mine.

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## Camp10

> H63 I guess what I am really after, is that all elusive,"Perfect knife". The One all the numpties come around looking for. Like all those threads that start out - "I'm taking just my knife and I'm gonna' survive forever". From a design stand point that is quite a challenge. What would be the "best" design? Oh I know everyone has their favorite design. But seriously, what would be the most useful knife,for as many purposes as possible. I know that there is no such thing as a "Perfect" knife. However I would like to come as close as possible. I am thinking that it would possibly be a minor variation on an existing "Basic" design. That is why I am asking these questions.


Poco, Thank goodness there is no such thing as a single perfect knife!   Most of the knives I make are hunting knives.  People tend to ask for either a drop point or a clip point for their hunting knife.  I make most of them with a blade length of 3 1/2" -4 1/2".  I also have made a bowie with an 11" blade for a guy.  I am working on a pocket knife now for someone and when it is done, I am going to finish up a blade I forged a few weeks ago for a knife I designed to stick in my BOB. 

I guess the point is that you should make the best knife for it's purpose and if someone wants to use it for something different they can always ask you to make them another.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

LOL Thank you both Hunter and Camp!! I suppose you are right. I guess there is no such creature as the "Perfect knife"!! One can only dream. I take no offense and hope I didn't offend either.
Hunter I know, I have more than one knife on me right now!! Only one is a sheath knife. 

On with today's progress!! I did a little refinement today and still have to drill my pin holes. But I think that is all before I "Fire" it, for the heat treat. Here are some shots of progress thus far......

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If anyone thinks I need to do something before the heat treat,please tell me.

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## Camp10

I drill the holes for my pins before I heat treat.  It is much easier on the bits in the annealed state than normalized and if you harden the handle it might be impossible.

It is really looking good though Poco!!

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## crashdive123

+1 On drilling it before your heat treat.

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## IA Woodsman

Nice job can't wait to see how it comes out

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## hunter63

I'm still liking it, 1/2 hole at end of grind, for stress relief?, or just because.

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## welderguy

That is looking real good.

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## crashdive123

Makes it easier to sharpen.

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## panch0

Nice poco I agree with pin holes before ht. I would also add that it might make for a better slicer if you were to make the grind higher, at least half way up the blade. You will be hooked after this and will have plenty of time to practice. Looks good!

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## canid

ooh! lookin' sharp, and yes; pun definitely intended.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

OK it's time for an update. I have taken the grind up higher on the blade, And I had to modify the handle some from the original drawings. Hey live and learn, Right? Anyway I am understanding how All you knifemakers feel about the "Flaws" that you see in your own blades now. I'm just hoping that they aren't Glaringly obvious here.

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Also I have some really neat wood for choice of handle scales. The darker wood is Cocobolo (I really liked the last knife Panch0 used it on and surprisingly remembered what it was) The lighter wood is something called Lacewood, it has some really nice patterning.

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The boards are 12"x3 1/2"x1/4"  Should be plenty enough for 3 handles for each board, if I cut it right. Anyway at least 2 per board. I also have some Lignum Vitae blocks that I will have to have split first. The densest, heaviest known wood. So heavy and dense that it will sink in water. If you slap the blocks together lightly, it sounds like stone blocks hitting together, instead of wood.

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## COWBOYSURVIVAL

Looks good Poco! Your hooked now! LOL! Great first effort!

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Looks good Poco! Your hooked now! LOL! Great first effort!


What are you talking about???? :Innocent:  :Innocent: 



I was hooked BEFORE I started this one!!! :clap:  :clap:

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## COWBOYSURVIVAL

If'n you need any advice on the heatreat let mme know..Is it carbon steel?

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Yes CS, it is O-1 tool steel. 3/16" 10 1/4" OAL

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## crashdive123

Looking good Poco.

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## your_comforting_company

that's shaping up nicely. Can't wait to see more.

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## randyt

coming along nicely Poco, i'm curious what are you using to shape it? looking good.

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## Rick

That is a very nice piece of metal. Nice job!!

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## rebel

Lookin' Good!

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> coming along nicely Poco, i'm curious what are you using to shape it? looking good.


Well,a combination really, For the curved parts in the handle, I'm using a Dremel with the coarse sanding drums. For the rest of it I am using a 1x24? (I Think it's 24" anyway) Belt Grinder, and a disc/belt sander I got from Lowe's. I also got a file set from Lowe's and that is what I used on the blade for the grip.

No doubt about it, I'm hooked. I ordered more steel last night. I ordered  2 different measurements of O-1 in 36"x1/8" with widths of 1" and 1 1/4" This is 10 1/4"x1 1/2"x3/16" I'm working on now. It is going to be easier to buy the steel as close to the measurements I want instead of removing more! Anyway I have 25 1/2"x1 1/2"x 3/16" left from this one, and 36"x1 1/2"x1/8" still in reserve for any big knives I want to make.

 Has anyone ever tried making their own Machete before? Seems the Heat treat would be a PITA. But I'm thinking maybe that 1 1/2" width might be used for one? Not a wide blade one, but a good working one in a shorter length, Something kinda' like a large butcher knife. Anyway I'm just thinking out loud on the keyboard.

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## crashdive123

You will quickly find (or it seems already have) that sights and images will trigger design images for your next one in your head.

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## panch0

Wow poco looks great! Aldo on Knifedogs there is a guy named aldo bruno and he sells 1084 steel which is way easier to get good results with a back yard HT. That and 1080 are really good and just take it to above non magnetic and quench. O1 requires a soak for a certain amount of time. You may want to send it to Delbert ealy for HT he only charges 5 bucks a blade plus 10 bucks shipping. That way you know you HT is dead on and will have made the best knife possible. I sent my first knife out. It wasn't pretty but it holds an edge very very well. Just my $.02. Keep up the good work!!!!

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## Ted

That scale wood looks great! Thats one bad a$$ blade Bro!

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Thanks everyone! You are being too kind. I do appreciate the encouraging words though.

Panch0, Andy said that the Cocobolo is toxic and that I should use a respirator when working it. Now I am curious, is a Dust mask sufficient, or is a true Respirator with replaceable filter cartridges needed? Also that it is a skin irritant. I am also assuming that long sleeve, buttoned up shirt followed by a shower would be sufficient here.

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## panch0

Cocobolo is irritating to some folk's skin and lungs. When I used to work with it with out a respirator I would have a slight cough for a couple of days. They are about 35 buck at the home depot here. Actually any material is not good for you. I had a two week lung infection cause I didn't use a respirator while working in the garage with the door closed. I was working with iron wood. Bad stuff. Now whenever I do any grinding on steel or handle material I wear eye and lung protection. I don't the small paper face masks will cut it. Please protect yourselves I command thee.. Hehehehe............

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Cocobolo is irritating to some folk's skin and lungs. When I used to work with it with out a respirator I would have a slight cough for a couple of days. They are about 35 buck at the home depot here. Actually any material is not good for you. I had a two week lung infection cause I didn't use a respirator while working in the garage with the door closed. I was working with iron wood. Bad stuff. Now whenever I do any grinding on steel or handle material I wear eye and lung protection. I don't the small paper face masks will cut it. Please protect yourselves I command thee.. Hehehehe............


I keep looking at my Local Lowe's, but they never seem to have them..... I guess another trip to Bowling Green is in order. Thanks Frank!

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## canid

i still have a few pieces of lacewood laying around the shop myself. i've used it in the risers for a few bows. it's beautiful stuff, though more than a bit soft.

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## crashdive123

Poco - here's a few places you might want to check for wood.  If you have any wood craft stores, sometimes they sell exotics.  Also, any custom door or cabinet maker - you may be able to pick up scraps that would be cheaper than buying them in a place that specializes in selling the unfinished pieces.

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## panch0

Poco, this should work for you along with some good eye protection.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

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## pocomoonskyeyes

I just ordered some really nice scales. This is the specs-
Premium Quality Stabilized Buckeye Burl

Size 2 @ 7/16 x 1 3/4 x 5

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I don't know if I should use them on this knife or wait...... maybe use them on a better one. Opinions please.

This is where I got them from.
http://shop.arizonaironwood.com/main.sc

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## crashdive123

If they talk to you, use em.  You can always get more.

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## your_comforting_company

USE IT, USE IT, USE IT!!

so, u gonna use them on this knife?

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Well I have several choices for scales. I have Lignum Vitae, Lacewood, Cocobolo,and Goncalo Alves. I have about 11' of steel in inventory. @2' of 3/16"x1 1/2 and 3'each of the following all at 1/8" thickness.1 1/2",1 1/4", 1" widths. So I have plenty in stock. Plenty to work on/with. Plus I still have this bowie to put Handles on.

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## Ted

> Well I have several choices for scales. I have Lignum Vitae, Lacewood, Cocobolo,and Goncalo Alves. I have about 11' of steel in inventory. @2' of 3/16"x1 1/2 and 3'each of the following all at 1/8" thickness.1 1/2",1 1/4", 1" widths. So I have plenty in stock. Plenty to work on/with. Plus I still have this bowie to put Handles on.
> 
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 Is that all! Well I got 8 circular saw blades,a 3/8th in. thick pry bar,a 1/4 in.thick floor scraper,and 9 saz-all blades! For scales I got 6 antlers ,12 coyote jaws 6 deer jaws, 4 raccoon jaws,and a 1x6 oak board 5ft long.....HA!

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## pocomoonskyeyes

That Dadburn Crash!! He just HAD to show that Ironwood...... Well I suffered from Ironwood envy!! So I went shopping online, Now I have this on it's way.....

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Redwood burl scales

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Is that all! Well I got 8 circular saw blades,a 3/8th in. thick pry bar,a 1/4 in.thick floor scraper,and 9 saz-all blades! For scales I got 6 antlers ,12 coyote jaws 6 deer jaws, 4 raccoon jaws,and a 1x6 oak board 5ft long.....HA!


Yeah but at the rate you are whipping them out, what are you going to do next week!!! :Innocent:  :clap:

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## welderguy

Thats a nice coffin handled bowie, who sells a good blank like that.

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## crashdive123

Hehehehe.  You've got it bad.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Thats a nice coffin handled bowie, who sells a good blank like that.


Here you go!!
http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=252

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Hehehehe.  You've got it bad.


Yeah! Now if I can just get my knives as nice as my scales!!

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## panch0

> Hehehehe.  You've got it bad.


Yep, he can't say we didn't warn him. Hehehehe.... :Tongue Smilie:

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## Ted

> Yeah but at the rate you are whipping them out, what are you going to do next week!!!


 I work for a fire water restoration compnay, I'll have way more next week! The word is out .....Teds a maniac and wants all the blades and broken tools. LOL!

O.K. back on topic, Thats some mighty perdy scale wood you got there!

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Thats a nice coffin handled bowie, who sells a good blank like that.





> Here you go!!
> http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=252


Did you order it?  It current lists for $20.95, Same price as when I ordered mine in September. It is a "Prototype" that I think they decided to not continue. So there should be very few of them in the long run.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Well I think it is ready to be sent for the heat treat.(I Hope) I'm not going to send it off 'til Monday anyway, at the earliest. This is what it looks like so far....

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I am Not going to use the front or back pair of holes, I am hoping that this just allows the Epoxy to "Grab hold" better. Hopefully securing the handles better.

The pins will look something like this design. It will be 7 holes for the pins.

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Now for the side views.

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## crashdive123

Looks great Poco.

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## canid

> Cocobolo is irritating to some folk's skin and lungs. When I used to work with it with out a respirator I would have a slight cough for a couple of days. They are about 35 buck at the home depot here. Actually any material is not good for you. I had a two week lung infection cause I didn't use a respirator while working in the garage with the door closed. I was working with iron wood. Bad stuff. Now whenever I do any grinding on steel or handle material I wear eye and lung protection. I don't the small paper face masks will cut it. Please protect yourselves I command thee.. Hehehehe............


many woods are considerably stronger respiratory irritants than others, but it should also be noted that all wood dust, in addition to most other dust is dangerous to breathe.

wood dust in particular is not terribly clean, and if you breathe enough of it for long enough, you stand an extremely high chance of eventually developing pneumonia.

lately, i've been using paper masks. they are a considerable help, but i have to adjust them constantly, or else they just draw air in from around the sides, in which case they are giving almost no protection.

incidentally, i've got a slight respiratory infection or irritation as we speak, complete with sore throat and sinus congestion.

to get back on topic: poco: your lacewood is gonna look great, and i like the way the blade has come out. what are you going to seal the scales with?

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## panch0

Poco is me or the lighting, but do you have a swedge on one side and not the other? Great job btw..

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## COWBOYSURVIVAL

Looks great Poco! I ain't ready to try using blanks yet...having to much fun honing my skills WITH OLD IRON!

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## Rick

Very nice my friend. That's going to look great with those scales.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Poco is me or the lighting, but do you have a swedge on one side and not the other? Great job btw..


What do you mean by swedge? I searched online for the term and came up with several meanings. The closest having to do with a hammer and another shaping a metal tube.



> Looks great Poco! I ain't ready to try using blanks yet...having to much fun honing my skills WITH OLD IRON!


CS It was a piece of 36" O-1 Flatbar of 3/16" thickness when I started. I made the "Blank" by cutting metal away. I have 3 more bars of 1/8" thickness all of which are 36" in length. The widths vary though - 1 1/2", 1 1/4", and 1". Depending on what I want to make is which "width" I use. I still have a little of the 3/16" thickness about 2'x1 1/2". Should be good for two more, at least.

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## canid

i think he means the false edge on the drop of the point.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> to get back on topic: poco: your lacewood is gonna look great, and i like the way the blade has come out. what are you going to seal the scales with?


Well I have some boiled Linseed oil. But I'm open to suggestions.



> Very nice my friend. That's going to look great with those scales.


Thanks Rick! I am not real happy with it though, Like all the other knife Makers I can see (and know) it's flaws. Still, it's not bad for a first knife. I'll keep it. (Just to prevent everyone else being able to see the flaws. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!!

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> i think he means the false edge on the drop of the point.


Yeah I do have a slight "False edge" and it is on both sides. The flash "washed out" one side when I took the pics. It is there though.

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## canid

i would suggest a wood hardener/stabilizer, or plain old ca glue if you want to make it real hard and durable, though the stuff i've sealed with polyurethane is holding up pretty well, it takes dents, dings and nicks pretty easily.

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## Camp10

It looks real good Poco!  Very nice first effort, dont worry about the flaws yet.  Not many people will be able to pick them out when the knife is done.  Besides, if the first one was perfect why would you want to keep making more? :Smile:

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## panch0

> Yeah I do have a slight "False edge" and it is on both sides. The flash "washed out" one side when I took the pics. It is there though.


Yes that was what I was asking. Poco that knife looks waaaaay better than my first. Looks like you have been doing your research on Knifedogs too. CAn't wait to see it finished.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Yes that was what I was asking. Poco that knife looks waaaaay better than my first. Looks like you have been doing your research on Knifedogs too. CAn't wait to see it finished.


panch0 this is a lifelong dream for me coming true. I have wanted to make my own knife since I was about 14 (I turn 50 this year, that makes 36 years), ever since I saw a "File Knife" in Bradford Angiers book. (Maybe it was in another book I had about that time). I really need to get some finer Grit belts, so I can not "polish" it up, but get a more satin like finish. The last belt I used was a 400 grit. Maybe just a 600 grit or so would get it where I REALLY want it. But as the saying goes, "It's close enough for Government work!"

Believe it or not, most of my info came from here!! You guys say thing in passing,that make "My ears perk up". Meaning, you say Little things you may not even realize you are saying, that are important. Plus after about 40 years of looking at Various knives and owning several different kinds, I kinda' have an idea what appeals to most, if not all knife owners. Yes, I have spent some time at knifedogs, but not enough to give most of the credit to them. Most of the credit lies with you guys! Joining in and reading in the "Knife oriented" Social Groups helped too.

 I can only hope and pray that I improve as much as all of you have. You and Crash both are ready to make the leap into selling them IMO. I know you have Frank, but Crash is still holding on to his altruistic nature. Nothing wrong with that, but it's about time he sees some return on his time and effort. You listening Crash?  'Bout time to sell one!

I'm going to say something that before now, only Dottie knew. I went to Jamboree in hopes of getting a Crash made knife!! The other knives were nice, Beautiful even, but a Crash made is what I really wanted!! To me it was as much a chance to MEET the maker in person, spend some time with them, and hold on to that knife as long as I possibly could. Yep, I was looking for an heirloom, with sentimental value! Oh well, I was blessed with what I received. Maybe next time it will be a poco made thrown in as well. I'm hoping anyway!! I have some improving to do before then though!

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## Camp10

> but it's about time he sees some return on his time and effort. You listening Crash?  'Bout time to sell one!


Yeah Crash!!!  When can us regular people buy a Crash knife?

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## crashdive123

> Well I have some boiled Linseed oil. But I'm open to suggestions.


See if the place you are sending your blade for heat treating also stabalizes scales.  If so, and it's in the budget, you will not be disappointed.

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## panch0

I am the same poco, I have had knives since I was a kid and always loved parts in movies where I would see someone hammering out a sword at the forge. I will hopefully get into that in the future. Keep it up buddy!

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## canid

> I have had knives since I was a kid and always loved parts in movies where I would see someone hammering out a sword at the forge.


i know exactly what you mean.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> panch0 this is a lifelong dream for me coming true. I have wanted to make my own knife since I was about 14 (I turn 50 this year, that makes 36 years), ever since I saw a "File Knife" in Bradford Angiers book. (Maybe it was in another book I had about that time). I really need to get some finer Grit belts, so I can not "polish" it up, but get a more satin like finish. The last belt I used was a 400 grit. Maybe just a 600 grit or so would get it where I REALLY want it. But as the saying goes, "It's close enough for Government work!"


Well, it turns out that I did have some 600 and 800 belts!! Here are the latest shots. There is one defect on the right side (As you would hold the knife normally) close to the spine. I went just a little deep with my grind, on the "Shoulder" just above the grind. It became apparent when using the finer grit belts.

You can see it in the second shot.........................................


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Please forgive Dottie's "Barn Clothes"!!


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## crashdive123

Looks a heck of a lot better than any other first attempts I've seen.  Looks like you've been at it for a while.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Looks a heck of a lot better than any other first attempts I've seen.  Looks like you've been at it for a while.


Thanks Crash! You're too kind. It is a LOOooooonngg way from where I want to be. Have you visited Jayfisherknives? That man is an artist!

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## crashdive123

I have not, but I will.

*Edit:*  Looking at your link - yes I have.  He does some incredible work.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

For anyone out there that might want to learn the parts of a knife. This is a great site. A word of caution though, Everything on this site is Copyrighted,EVERYTHING. He has prosecuted over copyright infringement. Just want to make sure everyone is aware of that. But for educational purposes it is the best site I have seen on knife anatomy.

http://www.jayfisher.com/knife_anato...rts,_names.htm

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## randyt

your knife is coming along great. i like a satin finish rather than a polished finish. either way though i like knives.

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## Camp10

This is one fine first knife!  I should send you a pic of mine!!  I dont take it out much...just when I want to feel better about what I can make now! :Smile:

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Well the Lacewood is a no go. I cracked the scales trying to use all those pins. So I have to start all over with the scales. Fortunately I was using a slow set epoxy and was able to get everything off and get the handle all cleaned up for another attempt. I think I am going to use my Ironwood as it is a tougher wood. These are the actual scales I will be using on my next attempt.

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## crashdive123

Poco - how are you pinning them that caused them to crack?

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## pocomoonskyeyes

I'm using Brass rod 1/8" for the pins. I think there were just too many holes and they weakened the wood. I think I will go withe the Pairs of holes at either end.and the single center pin hole. 5 pins instead of 11. As I was tapping about the 8th pin it cracked. I was so close to having that finished. So close yet so far!!

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## crashdive123

Were you peening the ends, or just tapping them through the holes?

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Just tapping them in. I was using a slow cure epoxy, so when I had let it cure , I was just going to grind them flush. I wasn't going to peen it at all.

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## crashdive123

I don't peen them either - that's why I was asking.  It sounds like it was just that the holes were too small, not the number of holes.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> I don't peen them either - that's why I was asking.  It sounds like it was just that the holes were too small, not the number of holes.


I used a 1/8" bit for the holes, and 1/8" brass rod. I would think it was the right size???

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## Camp10

I drill my pin holes slightly larger than the pin stock.  I think it is a #30 bit that is just slightly larger than 1/8.  I will also put a point on the leading edge of the pin to help it through.  I will than tap it in place with a tack hammer and a 4# bench anvil (made from some 2" round stock).  It usually only takes the weight of the hammer to set them.  Sorry to hear you split the scales!  I think many of us have been there.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Well I am going to try again with just 5 holes this time and the Epoxy.

I am just using 2  1/4" pins on the Coffin handle Bowie. I also drilled those at 1/4". So If I break my Goncalo Alves scales on the Coffin Handle, I will know it is the hole size Not the Number of pins. Also the Lacewood was not stabilized.

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## crashdive123

Wear a respirator (not a dust mask) when you are sanding that Ironwood.  I can't stress that enough.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Well today was a busy day. Now I know why it is called "Ironwood"!! I swear the Steel was easier to grind!!(of course it was thinner!) I spent all day (Well almost all day) On just the handles of these two Bowie knives!! Well I know y'all don't want to hear me(Read me??) you just want pics!! Right???


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## crashdive123

Outstanding!  You'd never know you were just starting out.

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## pocomoonskyeyes

> Outstanding!  You'd never know you were just starting out.


Well now that I've made a couple, I know how you and Panch0 feel about the "Mistakes" you make, that no one else sees. I see a few But I have handled it almost all day. I know every one of them by heart now!! LOL

Thanks For the kind words Crash!! I am sore from hand sanding that Ironwood. I just "Rough shaped" it on the sander. Even 50 grit on the sander was slow going!! The Brass pins are softer!!

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## panch0

Nice work poco! That wood looks great.

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## Ole WV Coot

You done good. I can guarantee you will find something wrong on every knife you make but you will be the only one. That ole perfection is tough and I ain't made it yet.

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## Ted

SWEEEEET! Go Poco!

So which one you gonna give me? LOL! 

Can't wait to see what you do next!

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## pocomoonskyeyes

Thank you all!! I now have my first "Customer".... Dottie!!

 Believe it or not, she wants me to make her one!! LOL I sat down with her today and we looked at several knives During a break in rebuilding fence. All she wants is a simple Drop point knife in her size!! Well, I measured her hand width, and never realized how small her hands are!! Just 3-1/2" across!! So a four inch handle should be Plenty for her!! I cut a 1"x 9"x 1/8" piece of O1 Marked where my plunge line and Ricasso will be and scribed the design on the steel. I will start work ASAP. This is one thing on the "Honey-do list" I won't mind!! I may see about getting some Mosaic pins for her knife.....we'll see.

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