# Prepping / Emergency Preparedness > General Emergency Preparedness >  Good $60 Knife

## Zack

As of the time of this post, the only "good" fixed-blade knives I have are 2 Bucks and 2 Mora's.  I've been looking on amazon.com for a decent quality knife in the $40-$80 range.  Does anybody have any recommendations?  I see the KaBar Becker series, the Ontario RAT's, the Ontario SpecPlus series, some of the cheaper ESEE knives, and I know of some custom knife-makers.  I have no minimum, but I really don't quite want to spend more that $80.  Any advice?

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## randyt

I've been looking for a martiini carbon lynx. It costs around 35 to 45 dollars. Has a 3.5 inch blade, leather sheath. birch handle and is made in Finland. The next closest is a lapin camping knife, very close to the same. Depending what you are looking for check out Ragweed Forge, a quick google will get you there. Ragnar mostly sells Scandinavian style knives, no "survival" knives there, just working knives.

Merry Christmas!!!!

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## MrFixIt

Check out Condor knives. Decent quality and good pricing.

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## Sarge47

I bought one of these back when the price was even higher.  It's a nice, heavy knife and the sheath has a small pouch in front for little items.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033H7VI6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1`

 :Nod:

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## ElevenBravo

The Condor knife series are not near the quality of top tier knives...

BUT

Ive never seen a piece of crap Condor.  With Condor you CAN buy with confidence, you WILL get a VERY GOOD knife.

A lot of the other "major names"  have sacked out to being china junk. What used to be a very very good knife 15 or 20 years ago are now garbage riding on a reputation that was built 15-20 years ago (Similar to firearms, lower quality now but used to be recognized as top dog (Remington?))

End rant.

EB

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## kyratshooter

Zack, 

You have not told us what models of the Buck and/or Mora line you already possess, you just mentioned that you had two of each. 

There are about a thousand of them.

And you have not mentioned the models you are considering from the brands you are inspecting.

There are about a thousand of those too!

No one can give you any valid information when they do not know what you are talking about, what your uses and expectations are, or what you already have.

What you get will be a continuation of the personal Christmas lists that are already being thrown your way.


One might even contend that if you have two Bucks and two Moras already you might need to consider a good quality hatchet or light axe.

In fact, I know where you can get a good chainsaw for $60 !

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## randyt

Another option depending on what you are looking for is the green river knives.

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## Zack

> The Condor knife series are not near the quality of top tier knives...
> 
> BUT
> 
> Ive never seen a piece of crap Condor.  With Condor you CAN buy with confidence, you WILL get a VERY GOOD knife.
> 
> A lot of the other "major names"  have sacked out to being china junk. What used to be a very very good knife 15 or 20 years ago are now garbage riding on a reputation that was built 15-20 years ago (Similar to firearms, lower quality now but used to be recognized as top dog (Remington?))
> 
> End rant.
> ...


Do you think that it's true with the brands I listed above?

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## Zack

I don't know if I specified this or not, but I want this knife for a general purpose belt knife.  Anything from wood processing to food preparation.  Does that help?

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## Tokwan

Yes Zack, I agree...most good knives at that price may seem easy to get, and when you get them, they can't do some of the things that you wanted.
I think, its best for you to research and then decide, 
How to research.
1. Ask around and make notes.
2. Google for survival knives within your budget and make notes.
3. Narrow your scope.
4. Look at reviews and narrow down further to the knives that meets your requirement.
5. Call up shops that you trust and see if they can supply you.

I reckon we are talking about survival knives.

I would stay away from Made in China knives even though the brands licensed them. The reason is, it s effect my ego! Simple as that. If it effects your ego, pretty soon you are gonna chuck it away.

Look at good branded knife, like OKC, Esee, Ka Bar, Eka.

Look for good reviews on handles, balance, material, strength and usage. Look at the tests. I like the stab and twist test, it shows the strength. The back of the knife should be able to be used on the ferro rod (firesteel) and shave magnesium bars. It should be able to withstand batoning too.

Go to the shop and try holding it.

Look at knives that are durable, easy to sharpen, able to hold its edge. I am not concerned about the sheath..its the knife that counts most, you can make the sheaths later.

I am now in love with my Ontario Blackbird SK 5. It fits me well and able to do a lot of things and the sheath is good too. I can fit some survival things in it.
\
But the cost is a bit high...but my take is, its better to spend a bit more or save and wait till you have enough and then get your dream knife.

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## Sarge47

> Yes Zack, I agree...most good knives at that price may seem easy to get, and when you get them, they can't do some of the things that you wanted.
> I think, its best for you to research and then decide, 
> How to research.
> 1. Ask around and make notes.
> 2. Google for survival knives within your budget and make notes.
> 3. Narrow your scope.
> 4. Look at reviews and narrow down further to the knives that meets your requirement.
> 5. Call up shops that you trust and see if they can supply you.
> 
> ...


I also bought the Ontario Blackbird SK5.  It's my favorite short blade knife.  Got it for about $104 On Amazon.  That being said I also own knives made in China...by AMERICAN companies.  They still retain quality control over the Chinese labor.  The Chinese were making high quality edged weapons hundreds of years before America ever came into existence.  I don't believe that their is some sort of "curse" placed on knives due to their country of origin.  That's just silly.  If I buy it off of Amazon and it falls apart they'll refund my money.  Now-a-days American companies move their factories to China and other places in order to keep the price down.  However it's all up to you.... :Sailor:

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## MartyC

Zack, you can't go wrong with the Becker tweeners. The BK15 and the BK16 would be great choices. The BK16 being the best for all around use, it has been my go to knife since I got it.

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## Tokwan

> I also bought the Ontario Blackbird SK5.  It's my favorite short blade knife.  Got it for about $104 On Amazon.  That being said I also own knives made in China...by AMERICAN companies.  They still retain quality control over the Chinese labor.  The Chinese were making high quality edged weapons hundreds of years before America ever came into existence.  I don't believe that their is some sort of "curse" placed on knives due to their country of origin.  That's just silly.  If I buy it off of Amazon and it falls apart they'll refund my money.  Now-a-days American companies move their factories to China and other places in order to keep the price down.  However it's all up to you....


Sarge, most companies that made things in China are quite good. But some do cheat. In Malaysia, where we buy from, guarantee or warranty doesn't work unless you buy directly from the shop. I guess you know that some companies made bicycles frames such for Giant, Scott, GT and a few other brands. I have an american made Giant, compared to a China made Giant...the welding does not look the same. Lemme tell ya, as for welding, nothing beats the American mads... I also have a Gerber , made in China which was a present from a friend, the knife is a para cord knife bearing someone's name. I checked the knife and found some differences with the same model I saw on the net..things like the sheath, logo and so on...which looked a bit different. I wrote to the company, and the declined to give me a confirmed answer except by stating" from what you mentioned, it sounds an original" whilst another answer from the same company elsewhere, stated, we only confirm a product is genuine if you purchased the item form our store....which was not available in Malaysia. Sad to say, that i affected my ego and now the knife is in a box somewhere in my store room.

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## Sarge47

> Sarge, most companies that made things in China are quite good. But some do cheat. In Malaysia, where we buy from, guarantee or warranty doesn't work unless you buy directly from the shop. I guess you know that some companies made bicycles frames such for Giant, Scott, GT and a few other brands. I have an american made Giant, compared to a China made Giant...the welding does not look the same. Lemme tell ya, as for welding, nothing beats the American mads... I also have a Gerber , made in China which was a present from a friend, the knife is a para cord knife bearing someone's name. I checked the knife and found some differences with the same model I saw on the net..things like the sheath, logo and so on...which looked a bit different. I wrote to the company, and the declined to give me a confirmed answer except by stating" from what you mentioned, it sounds an original" whilst another answer from the same company elsewhere, stated, we only confirm a product is genuine if you purchased the item form our store....which was not available in Malaysia. Sad to say, that i affected my ego and now the knife is in a box somewhere in my store room.


Companies like Schrade, Gerber, Camillius, Buck, and even some K-Bar knives are made in China.  But the companies keep a tight grip on the quality control.  The knives are not made according to what the Chinese want, but rather what the companies want.  As an example there is a prop used by magicians that are 3 cups.  Oft times these cups are easily dented and are made in America.  The set I have were made in China for a fellow magician and were designed to be super strong.  I spoke with the man himself and he related to me how many times he kept sending the cups back until he got exactly what he wanted.  I'm sure that if a company is a Chinese company then you don't have as good of quality, but American knife companies don't stint on quality when it comes to their products.  Given that many have a lifetime warranty it wouldn't pay them to trust that to foreign laborers.  And I'm not referring to buying in a store but off of Amazon where you have the better protection.... :Cowboy:

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## Zack

> Yes Zack, I agree...most good knives at that price may seem easy to get, and when you get them, they can't do some of the things that you wanted.
> I think, its best for you to research and then decide, 
> How to research.
> 1. Ask around and make notes.
> 2. Google for survival knives within your budget and make notes.
> 3. Narrow your scope.
> 4. Look at reviews and narrow down further to the knives that meets your requirement.
> 5. Call up shops that you trust and see if they can supply you.
> 
> ...


This sounds like good advice.  I'll start looking.

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## loki

> As of the time of this post, the only "good" fixed-blade knives I have are 2 Bucks and 2 Mora's.  I've been looking on amazon.com for a decent quality knife in the $40-$80 range.  Does anybody have any recommendations?  I see the KaBar Becker series, the Ontario RAT's, the Ontario SpecPlus series, some of the cheaper ESEE knives, and I know of some custom knife-makers.  I have no minimum, but I really don't quite want to spend more that $80.  Any advice?


Some that come to mind are 

Esee 3 90.00
Grohmann boat knife 70.00
Cold steel bushman 25.00
Mora high q allaround stainless 15.00

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## Zack

What do we think of the Ontario Rat 3?  Rat 5?

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## RangerXanatos

> What do we think of the Ontario Rat 3?  Rat 5?


The esee 3 is basically the same as the rat 3. Randall adventure training had some issues with ontario and split off to do their own thing as esee.

I have the esee 3 and really like it but have a little bit of conflict with the finger choil. I can't decide if I like it to choke up on or would rather a bit more edge without the choil.

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## Zack

> The esee 3 is basically the same as the rat 3. Randall adventure training had some issues with ontario and split off to do their own thing as esee.
> 
> I have the esee 3 and really like it but have a little bit of conflict with the finger choil. I can't decide if I like it to choke up on or would rather a bit more edge without the choil.


Uh-oh.  Did RAT have problems with quality?

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## Sarge47

> Uh-oh.  Did RAT have problems with quality?


I doubt it.  Probably business stuff.  Ontario always backs up there products and everybody I've talked to that has a RAT product loves them.  I only own the one Ontario knife, this one here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Creek Stewart, Survival school owner/Instructor/author and producer of "Fat Guys In The Woods" uses this one all the time.... :Cool2:

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## Zack

Does anybody own a RAT 3 or 5?  Are there any good reviews?

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## crashdive123

> Does anybody own a RAT 3 or 5?  Are there any good reviews?


I have a RAT 5.  I like it.  It has done everything that I have asked it to do.

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## Zack

> I have a RAT 5.  I like it.  It has done everything that I have asked it to do.


Do you think that the blade length is long enough to be useful as a belt knife?  Also, what have you asked it to do?

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## Rick

> what have you asked it to do?




He started off slow. He asked it to play dead, lay down and stay. It did great. He's working on teaching it to roll over at the moment. (I slay myself. I really do)

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## MrFixIt

> [/COLOR]
> 
> He started off slow. He asked it to play dead, lay down and stay. It did great. He's working on teaching it to roll over at the moment. (I slay myself. I really do)


Rick, you just ain't right...lol!

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## Tokwan

> [/COLOR]
> 
> He started off slow. He asked it to play dead, lay down and stay. It did great. He's working on teaching it to roll over at the moment. (I slay myself. I really do)


 hahahahahahahahahahahahahah.... :Hang:

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## Zack

> [/COLOR]
> 
> He started off slow. He asked it to play dead, lay down and stay. It did great. He's working on teaching it to roll over at the moment. (I slay myself. I really do)


If I could only teach my Buck "easy".  He's bitten me more than once.

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## hunter63

> Do you think that the blade length is long enough to be useful as a belt knife?  Also, what have you asked it to do?


With a $60 buck knife....I would expect it to at least "stay" till called, and do most of the chores like gutting a deer, slicing onions, pick a pickle out of a jar....and of course, an occasional "Baton a piece of wood" (shudder).

Of course when the price goes up so do my expectations.....them $400 knives wake me up in the morning, make breakfast, drive me to the woods, call in game, kill it, clean it....cook it up, serve it....then brag to everyone what a great hunter (or bushcrafter), I am.

LOL......sorry man couldn't resist.

Most expensive knife I own.....

Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.

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## TXyakr

Zack you know your budget and application best, but there are dozens of reviews that you can google that compare similar knives. Many on youtube are a total waste of time and a few are very helpful. This text article probably tells you everything you already know: http://www.blackscoutsurvival.com/20...-3-review.html

My personal 2 cents is that if you already have some good small knives think about paying a little extra for a 5" or 6" cutting blade (full tang) Ontario RAT 5 is a good choice IMO. (1095 steel) Search Amazon and other retailers for best price including shipping obviously. These may not be the best if you are an ultra light backpacker or scuba diver; obviously a tool should match its intended purpose. Flint blades work better for skinning animals etc but I would not want one for batoning small branches with. blah blah. I can survive in many warm forests with only a thin bladed machete but that would not be fun. Buck saw and small knife are great, and hatchet or axe in a northern forest is very helpful especially for dead wood.

Edit add video:

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## Zack

> Zack you know your budget and application best, but there are dozens of reviews that you can google that compare similar knives. Many on youtube are a total waste of time and a few are very helpful. This text article probably tells you everything you already know: http://www.blackscoutsurvival.com/20...-3-review.html
> 
> My personal 2 cents is that if you already have some good small knives think about paying a little extra for a 5" or 6" cutting blade (full tang) Ontario RAT 5 is a good choice IMO. (1095 steel) Search Amazon and other retailers for best price including shipping obviously. These may not be the best if you are an ultra light backpacker or scuba diver; obviously a tool should match its intended purpose. Flint blades work better for skinning animals etc but I would not want one for batoning small branches with. blah blah. I can survive in many warm forests with only a thin bladed machete but that would not be fun. Buck saw and small knife are great, and hatchet or axe in a northern forest is very helpful especially for dead wood.
> 
> Edit add video:


It was an interesting comparison.  Thanks for the video.  I've got a decent 3 3/4" Buck, so maybe I should look at a bigger one.  Does anybody have an Ontario RD6?  It's got a 6" blade I believe, so if I paired it with a littler knife, I think I'd be set.  Do you agree?

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## Zack

What about a Jeff White French Trade Knife?

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## RangerXanatos

> What about a Jeff White French Trade Knife?


I have his nessmuk and like it. But I wouldn't want his trade knives for battoning if that's what you're thinking it might get used for.  They are 3/32" thick.

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## crashdive123

> Do you think that the blade length is long enough to be useful as a belt knife?  Also, what have you asked it to do?


Yes.  Camping and fishing chores.

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## crashdive123

> [/COLOR]
> 
> He started off slow. He asked it to play dead, lay down and stay. It did great. He's working on teaching it to roll over at the moment. (I slay myself. I really do)


We're working of fetch.  I'll let you know what he brings back from Indiana.

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## Zack

> Yes.  Camping and fishing chores.


How does it chop?  I'd like a knife that can go through 1-3" limbs.  Is the spine thick enough to baton with it?  I don't think that I'd ever do it with a "good" knife, so I keep an Old Hickory to do any messy work.  But it's nice to have the feature (bug out, forgot an axe, etc.).

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## crashdive123

I don't use small knives to chop.  I carry a folding saw camp ax.  Having and using the proper tool is important and part of the learning experience.

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## Zack

> I don't use small knives to chop.  I carry a folding saw camp ax.  Having and using the proper tool is important and part of the learning experience.


Do you do any wood processing with it?

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## TXyakr

If pack weight and size and or cost is an issue consider making a buck saw. Using a relatively small/medium knife (full tang is best) to create some notches in sticks helps. But ideally you would take a compact buck saw with you that is very fast to assemble in the field. There are many other threads and comments on this forum that discuss these but here is a good DIY instructional video. There are 100+ others. I liked this guy's idea of using an aluminum crutch from a thrift store cost about $1-3. High quality Swedish blade is great but one you can buy in almost any local H.W. store may work out better for most people. Also some places online sell S.S. or Ti split rings such as county comm dot com.



Bushcrafting your own buck saw in the field with only knife for your saw blade on split rings is fine but it takes time, and I prefer to spend this time collecting wood and making a shelter when possible.

2.3 cm I.D. may be enough to go around aluminum pipe that is available to you or from H.W. i.e. 1/2" O.D. plus saw blade but check to be sure before ordering from DX, "Etsy", ebay, amazon or where ever. Here is one source there are many others, these rings are handy.
http://www.dx.com/p/simple-stainless...7274#.VKLsNBoA

just don't order those tiny ones for fishing lures.

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## Zack

> If pack weight and size and or cost is an issue consider making a buck saw. Using a relatively small/medium knife (full tang is best) to create some notches in sticks helps. But ideally you would take a compact buck saw with you that is very fast to assemble in the field. There are many other threads and comments on this forum that discuss these but here is a good DIY instructional video. There are 100+ others. I liked this guy's idea of using an aluminum crutch from a thrift store cost about $1-3. High quality Swedish blade is great but one you can buy in almost any local H.W. store may work out better for most people. Also some places online sell S.S. or Ti split rings such as county comm dot com.
> 
> 
> 
> Bushcrafting your own buck saw in the field with only knife for your saw blade on split rings is fine but it takes time, and I prefer to spend this time collecting wood and making a shelter when possible.
> 
> 2.3 cm I.D. may be enough to go around aluminum pipe that is available to you or from H.W. i.e. 1/2" O.D. plus saw blade but check to be sure before ordering from DX, "Etsy", ebay, amazon or where ever. Here is one source there are many others, these rings are handy.
> http://www.dx.com/p/simple-stainless...7274#.VKLsNBoA
> 
> just don't order those tiny ones for fishing lures.


A bucksaw as a belt knife?  I wanted a knife that could be general purpose, but I appreciate the video.

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## crashdive123

> Do you do any wood processing with it?


I rarely process wood other than very fine kindling with a knife.  That is why I carry a folding saw and/or an ax.  Is it sturdy enough to baton wood?  Yes.

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## Zack

I'm starting to like the RAT 5...

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## TXyakr

> I rarely process wood other than very fine kindling with a knife.  That is why I carry a folding saw and/or an ax.  Is it sturdy enough to baton wood?  Yes.


I agree with crash just because you can baton (split) a relatively thick piece of dead (seasoned) wood with a RAT-5 or similar thick bladed full tang knife does not mean you should plan to, regardless of all the youtube videos demonstrating it. Better to use a hatchet, ax or saw for heavier wood processing like that. There are many other methods to split wood as well and often it is not necessary. Personally I really like to be able to make notches but often a saw blade works better, and a folding saw even works better for clearing briars sometimes.

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## Zack

> I agree with crash just because you can baton (split) a relatively thick piece of dead (seasoned) wood with a RAT-5 or similar thick bladed full tang knife does not mean you should plan to, regardless of all the youtube videos demonstrating it. Better to use a hatchet, ax or saw for heavier wood processing like that. There are many other methods to split wood as well and often it is not necessary. Personally I really like to be able to make notches but often a saw blade works better, and a folding saw even works better for clearing briars sometimes.


I understand the purpose of the video now.  Like I said before, I keep a 7" Old Hickory to do any messy work I don't want to beat my Bucks up with or destroy my Moras with.

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## Rick

That Old Hickory is the better knife.

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## Zack

> That Old Hickory is the better knife.


Really?  The fixed-blade Bucks are pretty good in my opinion, maybe not though...

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## MrFixIt

I am one of those folks who baton wood on a regular basis.
I use my Condor Tavian, kukri, and even my newly acquired BK-11 neck knife. Not saying it is right or wrong, but it is what I do.
I'll also add that I carry a folding saw and use it to cut wood to rough size for fire, shelter or whatever I need.
Being able to use your tools effectively is the key IMO. And I don't try to chop down a tree using my camp kitchen knife. I know the limitations of my tools and myself.

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## Sarge47

If God wanted us to baton to split wood He wouldn't of gave us the "splitting ax!"  Anyway, since I don't backpack any more I don't worry about ax weight.  Since I live in a sort of community without a fireplace and open fires are not allowed I don't worry about firewood.  When I'm camping out on my brother's property he has a splitting ax and chain saws...problem solved!.... :Sneaky2:

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## Traditionalist

If you want a knife for splitting, a becker bk2 is your best friend. It's .25" thick, and weighs a pound. I'd suggest a small hatchet if your serious about splitting a decent amount of wood.

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## Zack

> If you want a knife for splitting, a becker bk2 is your best friend. It's .25" thick, and weighs a pound. I'd suggest a small hatchet if your serious about splitting a decent amount of wood.


I don't want the knife for just splitting firewood, but I thought that the capability to do so is never bad.  The same with chopping 1"-3" tree limbs, it's never bad to have the ability to do it.  So if I really had to, could I split wood with the Rat 5?  Chop with it?  Carve with it?  Dress game with it?  My question is, can the Rat 5 perform a wide variety of chores better than other knives in the price range?  If not, what knife does them better?

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## randyt

I almost never baton not that I won't, instead I use squaw wood.  I've have always been fortunate to been where there is squaw wood.

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## Tokwan

Good commennts and feedbacks from the team here. IMHO, when we want to get a survival knife, it would be good to get a knife that you can use for a lot of things , such as cutting small trees, withstand batoning and other chores, even though you might not use it often. However when it come to that one time, you might need it. That is why I chose a knife that is an all rounder...its just like a survival kit, you put in certain items that you might not use, but when you need to use it, it could be worth your life!

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## Sarge47

Cody Lundin batons with a Mora knife.  He did it on Dual Survival.  As far as RAT knives we had a member on here a while back that broke the tip of his Ontario knife and sent it back to the company.  They replaced it for free, no questions asked.

As for batoning I never do it, but if I did I'd use my Buck Hoodlum.... :Thumbs Up:

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## Zack

> Good commennts and feedbacks from the team here. IMHO, when we want to get a survival knife, it would be good to get a knife that you can use for a lot of things , such as cutting small trees, withstand batoning and other chores, even though you might not use it often. However when it come to that one time, you might need it. That is why I chose a knife that is an all rounder...its just like a survival kit, you put in certain items that you might not use, but when you need to use it, it could be worth your life!


Exactly!  I don't think I could have said it better.  Thanks, Tokwan!

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## Zack

> I almost never baton not that I won't, instead I use squaw wood.  I've have always been fortunate to been where there is squaw wood.


Squaw wood?

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## Zack

> Yes Zack, I agree...most good knives at that price may seem easy to get, and when you get them, they can't do some of the things that you wanted.
> I think, its best for you to research and then decide, 
> How to research.
> 1. Ask around and make notes.
> 2. Google for survival knives within your budget and make notes.
> 3. Narrow your scope.
> 4. Look at reviews and narrow down further to the knives that meets your requirement.
> 5. Call up shops that you trust and see if they can supply you.
> 
> ...


I've been looking, like Tokwan said, and I like the RAT 3.  Does anybody know if it has a 90 degree spine?

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## kyratshooter

> Squaw wood?


Squaw wood is the small dead branches still clinging to a tree.  It usually grows near the ground and is protected by the foliage above from moisture and saturation, meaning that even when the rest of the forest is soaked the squaw wood will be dry.

"Back in the day" we were taught to gather squaw wood as our primary kindling precluding the need for splitting large wood into kindling.  

Of course "back in the day" we were taught to bring a pocket knife, a belt knife and an axe too, and not to seek the impossible, one knife to do it all.

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## hunter63

> Squaw wood is the small dead branches still clinging to a tree.  It usually grows near the ground and is protected by the foliage above from moisture and saturation, meaning that even when the rest of the forest is soaked the squaw wood will be dry.
> 
> "Back in the day" we were taught to gather squaw wood as our primary kindling precluding the need for splitting large wood into kindling.  
> 
> Of course "back in the day" we were taught to bring a pocket knife, a belt knife and an axe too, and not to seek the impossible, one knife to do it all.


The term squaw wood isn't used as much these days as one may consider it not so PC.......but ask most older guys....and that has the meaning of kindling and wood small enough to burn with out a lot of processing.

Big fires are not needed in most instances, so gathered cooking, water processing, heat and light can be taken care of simply by gathering small pieces of wood as deadfalls, and other scrap.
Why saw a log in half?.... when you can burn it in half?

This kinda falls apart in a groomed camp site......then add "do not cut the trees, buy our crappy wood" and spend a lot of time and effort cutting splitting  it into something that will burn.

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## Zack

Thanks Hunter and KYRatshooter.  I guess I use a lot of "squaw wood" in my fire pit, but I've never heard it called that.  Like Hunter said, probably because it's not very PC.  I won't call it "squaw wood" in mixed company.

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## kyratshooter

We'll change the name to "Female Native American of Child Bearing Age Wood".

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## randyt

the PC crowd can say what but if I had been born years ago, I would have took up tipi living with a nice indian gal.

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## hunter63

....yeah, there is something kinda cool about looking up at the stars through the smoke hole.......

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## Zack

Just a quick update on the situation: I just found an old Schrade knife (one of the old USA made ones) that I think I'd like to use as a belt knife.  Thanks for all the advice though!

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## Lamewolf

> Does anybody own a RAT 3 or 5?  Are there any good reviews?


I have a RAT 3 and a RAT 7, love them both - very tough knives !  Wish they made a RAT 4 !

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## Rick

Lamewolf - Look at the ESEE 4P. There are several different models to choose from. Randal became ESEE so it's the same knife as Ontario was making. It 9 inches long. In between the RAT 3 and RAT 5.

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## Lamewolf

> Lamewolf - Look at the ESEE 4P. There are several different models to choose from. Randal became ESEE so it's the same knife as Ontario was making. It 9 inches long. In between the RAT 3 and RAT 5.


Yeah, I know but the ESEE 4 is much more expensive than a RAT 4 would be !  I only paid $68 plus tax for my new RAT 7 !  One of these days I'll probable end up with an ESEE 4 though, I already have an ESEE Laserstrike.

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## Rick

It only costs a tad more to go first class.

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## crashdive123

I've got a RAT 5 and am very happy with it.

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## Lamewolf

> I've got a RAT 5 and am very happy with it.


Know what you mean crash, I've never seen a bad product from Ontario myself.  And one of their products that is very useful in the outdoors is their Old Hickory butcher knives.  Around $13, 1095 high carbon steel and full tang with hickory handle scales.  I've got 2 of them, one I reground into a Kephart style blade and the other I left as a butcher knife.  They are not real thick blades, but I have never broken one even under hard use.  I've seen them used at fleamarkets for as little as a dollar !

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## randyt

> ....yeah, there is something kinda cool about looking up at the stars through the smoke hole.......


TBH taking up tipi living with a indian gal really wasn't about the tipi LOL.

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## Batch

> Know what you mean crash, I've never seen a bad product from Ontario myself.  And one of their products that is very useful in the outdoors is their Old Hickory butcher knives.  Around $13, 1095 high carbon steel and full tang with hickory handle scales.  I've got 2 of them, one I reground into a Kephart style blade and the other I left as a butcher knife.  They are not real thick blades, but I have never broken one even under hard use.  I've seen them used at fleamarkets for as little as a dollar !



I am a fan of Old Hickory Butcher Knives. Solid knives for the money! And you can flip food on the grill with it in a pinch.

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## randyt

I've been using a russell skinner cut down into a nesmuck of sorts. I prefer the old hickory type knives over bout anything else. Been thinking about a cold steel bushman.

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## Lamewolf

> I've been using a russell skinner cut down into a nesmuck of sorts. I prefer the old hickory type knives over bout anything else. Been thinking about a cold steel bushman.


I had a Cold Steel Bushman, and I think that's where Cold Steel got its name because that steel handle was colder than a well diggers butt in the winter !  Gave it to a friend, just didn't like it at all !

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