# Self Sufficiency/Living off the Land or Off the Grid > General Homesteading >  Simple Homestead Construction Methods

## Alaskan Survivalist

I wrote a blog and thought I would post it here as well. I intend to write a series along this line to aid poor folk transistioning from urban to rural living to build a home and will just add them here as I write them. I will be keeping it simple and I'm sure you guys have some too that will help them.

CLASSIFYING GRAVEL

I was raised to the homestead way of life and these things are natural for me but I have always had a deep admiration for those that come with nothing but fierce determination to build their lives with hands. The blogs I write as with the first one “Basic Comforts of Life” are aimed at those who have the heart to take the leap with little or no money. There are other ways and you may not have the same resources in your area, I just hope you take what I post to heart. People tend to bite off more than they can chew and that is where most go wrong. Start small and you can always do more after you have been established. A topic like this one may not seem that important or interesting but if experience means anything to you heed each word. I will post other building methods to turn your resources into a home in time.

A building does not begin with the foundation. It begins with the excavation. Gravel is the best to build on because of its drainage qualities. Large structures are dug down below frost level to gravel or backfilled with gravel but that type of project is beyond the reach of the people I am addressing. A gravel pad is all that is needed to lift a small cabin high and dry and give it a firm foundation and floor. I’m making a pad for a fuel storage tank here but the principal is the same. 

Large rocks in gravel make it hard to dig with hand tools.

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The tools I use are a cultivating hoe, a small spade (I’m getting old) and a rake.

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I use cultivating hoe to pull rocks out of surface.

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Larger rocks are separated into a pile for building rock walls.

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Gravel can now be shoveled much easier and I shovel it across an area where more rocks are brought to the surface.

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At this point I use the rake to remove the remaining smaller rocks. This size rock is great for drainage and in this case I will be building a retaining wall and it will be backfilled against it. The racks tines are about ¾ of an inch apart so what remains is ¾ minus. This is the right mixture for making concrete and is easy to shovel and level and compacts firm. Us poor folk don’t need a compactor either, just hose it down with water and sand will work its way between rock better than a compacter will do the job. 

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This is all you need to build a cabin on. Stay tuned, the rest is just as simple.

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## crashdive123

Nice post AS - I gotta spread some rep around before I can give you any more.

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## hunter63

You been there it seems, good start.

Will be watching this tread as I have kinda been thru the same process, with a slightly different, "Permit" orientated point of view.

Nothing wrong with permits, they kinda help you build something that won't fall down and kill you.

That said, they can be a PITA, when used against you, rather than for you.
And remember there is the local/farmer way, and the outsider way, if you know what I mean.
Press on, this is intresting.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

PROCESSING TREES

Homesteading is about learning how to use what the land provides. Trees are one of the resources you need to consider. Understand that If you are thinking a scribe fit log cabin it sure helps if you have trees of consistent size (not common on most property) and full length logs are more difficult to move and position. Clinging to this idea has caused many to fail. The first thing you need to do is get a roof over your head. You can build your dream home later. I have had my own logging/sawmill business (Ripsaw Services) and still have a band sawmill in Fairbanks, I have built dozens of log cabins in all styles and boiled all this knowledge and experience down to this simple, inexpensive method anybody can do. 

When selecting trees make sure it has a clear path to fall and room to cut it up. Cutting it up where it lands eliminates the need for logging equipment.

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My home is built so I am primarily concerned with firewood but I don’t saw good lumber into firewood and I process all my logs this way. Spruce bark beetles kill the tree by boring into the bark leaving the tree “standing dry”. Always your first choice for firewood because the are a fire hazard. Besides from being dead with no needles on it holes in bark are a dead give away what killed it.

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Before we go any further UNDERSTAND THIS!!! A chainsaw is the deadliest tool known to man! Read owners manual FULLY! Clear brush away from surrounding area so you can move out of the way when the tree begins to fall. I make the first cut straight, about a little shy of halfway into the tree and perpendicular to where I want it to fall. I also make this cut at comfortable height for safety and because the base of the tree has the most taper. Maximum size of lumber is determined by small end of log not the big end. 

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I make the second cut in a downward intersecting path with the first. I always try to make as many downward cuts as I can to let the weight of the saw do the work (that getting old thing again). 

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The final cut is another downward cut. This one needs to be made perpendicular to where it is to fall and as soon as the tree begins to fall remove saw and get clear. Once it begins to move it will go the rest of the way. No need to linger there. 

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Now is the time to cut stump close to ground. This will make further removing of other trees easier and a nice big chunk of firewood. With the weight of the tree off of it you should be able to make this cut without binding saw.

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With a little practice you will be dropping trees exactly where you want them.

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Then remove the branches. I have not found much use for them and scatter them around the forest floor to return to the soil. 

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At my age humping 8 foot logs out is about all I can handle so I start cutting them in that length going up the tree. I just lift one end and roll it back onto my shoulder. If they are bigger than a foot in diameter though I have to flip them end over end. 

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At some point the tree will taper down or get so knarly its not worth the effort and the decision has to be made to start cutting firewood. At this point it is getting marginal and I need firewood more than lumber but if I had a greater need for lumber I could get another section out of this tree.

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The rest is cut into firewood.

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A wheel barrow takes it to my wood pile. Another basic tool every poor homesteader should have. In the background you can see I have four 8 foot logs to cut up. This one tree will yield a minimum of 32 linear feet of two or three sided logs plus siding and framing studs. Last time I checked three sided logs where going for 4.50 a foot. 

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Now I am going to let you in on a little known fact. Everyone knows it is harder crosscut that it is to rip lumber. This because it is cutting with the grain and not across it. If you look at the end of a log and can visualize a saw cutting through it you will see it is still cutting across a lot of grain but there is a way to over come this and increase cutting speed tremendously by changing the angle of attack. Another thing that speeds processing lumber is cutting on a vertical plane, this makes squaring log much easier. This is good news to those with limited funds because there is a small, relatively cheap (100 dollars) chainsaw attachment that accomplishes all this. It is so simple that even if you don’t have the money to by one you can make one easy enough and I will show you how I did it if interested. There are other variations of this that cost about 40 dollars but I recommend the Haddon Lumber Maker because it can use many size guide boards. You will learn that this guide has many more uses than just cutting lumber but we are just talking sawmill uses now. Changing the angle of attack also means that a special ripping chain is not needed. You will see that it will not be spitting out chunks but instead long strings shaving will the grain. Note a slight modification is needed. There are bolts that clamp the chainsaw bar. Sooner or later these will loosen on you and you will damage your chain. Instead of clamping it to bar drill two holes in bar and bolt it directly to the guide. This will not come loose. Believe it or not I have actually used this right beside my sawmill because by the time I added set up time it was faster. 

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For the guide board I use a 12 foot pressure treated 4x6. It is thick enough to be used across supports for ripping lots of lumber but that is not what we will be doing here. It can also be turned to the 4 inch side for thinner portions of the tree. All the various ways this tool can used is in the instructions and over the years I have invented some of my own. Believe it, this thing is capable of much more than I will be demonstrating. I use heavy nails to nail it to log and I did not have long enough ones to reach so I drilled a counter sink so it would reach. I pre-drill all nail holes at intervals about two feet apart in guide board and use just those hole to attach to log.

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Simply set log on blocks to prevent bar from hitting dirt and nail guide to top of log. You can see I am using a cheap Poulan and this method is so efficient it is even up to the task but whenever ripping lumber with a chainsaw bigger is always better. Also note that guide extends past log on both ends.

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Cut down one side. The slab that falls off will later be trimmed for siding. I don’t bother nailing guide for that cut and only takes seconds to rip. 

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Now just flip saw and cut the other side in other direction and you will have another piece of siding. At this point you have two side logs that any body that has ever played with Lincoln logs can stack into a cabin all you have to do is match sizes starting with bigger logs at base of wall and thinner logs as you go up. 

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I turned the guide on edge to show that I could two 4x6 three side from this log. If I lived stateside or in warmer coastal area I would but here I cut 6x6 three sided logs and have a 3 sided 6x wall stud. That may sound a bit funny but how many side of a wall stud do you nail to and it will be buried inside wall. It is just not worth it to me to make the extra cut. 

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With only 3 cuts I have a 6x6 three sided log, a 6x wall stud and two pieces of siding. The small scraps to the side are the only waste.

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Maybe not the planed, kiln dried lumber you are used to but plenty good for building warm, strong cabins. And the beauty of it is any Cheechako can do it.

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## Pal334

Great post. Thanks for sharing

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## Rick

Great tutorial. My GG Grandfather built a church using two sided logs for the floor joists. That was around 1848. A basement was later add. The church is still standing and you can go into the basement and still see the bark on the original floor joists. For all I know, the wall studs were made the same way. His were all hand crafted but the principle is the same and a very solid way to make logs. Good stuff!!

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## LowKey

Nice post. Just a note that if you are going to be pulling those stumps to clear the land, you want to leave them tall. Easier to crank out.

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## huntermj

Good post.
I almost agree with you, i only differ when when you say construction begins with excavation. I would say it begins with design. Does what a person want fit the land? What is the substrate, how deep is the water table? How deep is the bedrock. What types of materials are localy avalbal? And how do intenational building codes afect the design? Just to name a few conderations.
I work with architechs all the time. my respect for them drops each time i work with them. And they take no liabilty for there work.I have seen some bad designs cost builders deerly.
Sorry for spelling, i had to nuke my computer. Will reload ispell later.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> Nice post. Just a note that if you are going to be pulling those stumps to clear the land, you want to leave them tall. Easier to crank out.


Spruce trees roots are spread over surface. They are pulled up getting under root and lifting. I have huge Cotton woods three feet across and have tap roots that go down 8 feet. Spruce tree stumps are easy. There is more than one way to deal with stumps. I rented 850 Long track to clear the land I'm on now and it had to grab a root of cottonwood and split tree into pieces to pull them. Don't forget the burm pile you'll have to get rid of too. Hand removal is another story and I've done that too. I know a dozen ways to pull stumps, this is my prefered method.

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PS I often tell friends I will operate thier rental equipment for the same price it costs to rent it. It's not to hard to find people in rural areas that can run equipment.

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## rwc1969

Really like the tree processing part. I'd give you rep but the system don't allow it.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

CONCRETE AND STONE

I have found there is a natural tendency for people smarter than me to over think and complicate things. My endeavor is to make things simple to aid those deep in the woods trying to scratch out a living not to make people skilled masons or meet building codes of urban areas. There are some very well written books on the topic and even if you don’t read them you can look at the pictures and get ideas you can use. Concrete is the cheapest, most durable way to build many things assuming you have sand, gravel and rock it can be very cheap! 

Homesteaders should keep a few things in mind. First, rock is cheaper and harder than concrete, use all of it you can. Second, this is labor intensive work with a limited amount of time to get that work done. It needs to be planed out prior to mixing concrete. Third, concrete does not flex, it cracks. It must be built so it does not move or free floating and steel reinforcement is to help prevent it from flexing and keeping it together if it does. It will still crack just be held together by steel. 

Mixing concrete - It’s as simple as 1,2,3. That is 1 part cement, two parts sand, a tree parts aggregate (rock). The cement gets between the grains of sand and the sand fills the cap between the rock. As I mentioned in “Classifying Gravel”, ¾ minus has about the right mixture of sand and I just mix it 1 shovel of cement to 5 shovels of ¾ minus. Mortar is just as simple but a slight variation. It is One part cement “to” 3 parts sand for binding block or rock together or sealing outer walls. This is the basic mix and you may find time you will wish to add more cement for some applications and you will get a feel for that with experience. One person can mix mortar in a wheel barrow for stone projects or mix concrete in wheel barrow although it is much harder than mortar and should only be considered for something like setting a post or making sidewalk stepping stones. Even a small electric mixer will keep two people busy. One feeding mixer and the other hauling and working concrete before it sets up. Bigger projects will need more man power. The largest pour I have done with a mixer is a 10” slab for my garage so I could work on heavy equipment. It was 4 hours of back breaking work for 4 men and no time to take a break or catch your breath. You will be limited and have to adapt by making smaller pours to match your available man power. Homesteaders have to learn to do the best they can with what they have. Remove the word “can’t” from your vocabulary. 

Forms - Forms are not always necessary but will always make the job quicker and easier. When my last barbeque grill rusted out I did not want to spend 40 dollars to buy another one that would rust through in a couple of years. Instead I spent 13 dollars for a bag of cement, gathered rocks and mixed a thick, dry mortar in a wheel barrow so it would dry as fast as I could stack rock. I won’t be buying any more BBQ grills for the rest of my life! I have worked many concrete and block crews but never did any stone work professionally so don’t think you have to be some kind of skilled stone mason, I’m not and while not perfect my steaks will never know the difference. 

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For comparison another project I did because it did not have the money to accomplish with convention building methods was a chimney I made for a wood stove in my basement. I used forms for this. I used just used ordinary stove pipe to form inside wall and just covered it concrete between boards to complete the form. 

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Note the rock in form, remember it’s cheaper than concrete. 

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When I got to the portion above ground I laid rock to the outside of form then pulled forms while concrete was still green but firm enough to stand and used wire brush to expose rock. 

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Small forms can be made to make things like patio pavers saving a ton of money or giving you some to sell if you need a few bucks. Concrete blocks cost about 2 dollars each around here. Factory seconds can be had for about half that but I can make my own for pennies. The board to the side is what each block sits on while curing. I can make about 20 an hour.

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It is all hinged.

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Sides and back fold away, pinned centers are removed, end piece removed and block is slid out to be elsewhere for drying. 

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Working construction we always had a trailer load of form boards but has a homestead I have used slip forms for building footings. Just set a string line to use as a guide and fill and slide form as it dries.

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I made another to fit over footing for building stone walls if I want that is slid and filled the same way.

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Determine your need - Building codes call for a 10”x16” Footing. That’s a lot of concrete and work. Believe me, I worked three seasons doing nothing but footings and laid over 18 miles of it each season, that’s why I have a bad back today. 6”x6” is all I need to keep logs high and dry off ground and supported on a good gravel base. Code will call for 4” thick reinforced slabs, again I have found 2” slab with no reinforcement works in my cabins and I can always pour a slab over it or easily tear it out with a sledge hammer. As a matter of fact In one cabin deep in the woods I just leveled the gravel and since I didn’t have a mixer just made a slurry of cement and water, pour a light coat directly on smoothed out ¾ minus and later after it set and would hold water better poured a larger amount of slurry to set up. The idea came to me after doing a clean up on my mixer and seeing how the ground firmed up. Great easy method when you intentionally do it. Be creative. I have also used a similar dry pour methods building stone walkways. I just set the stone, mix cement and gravel dry, sweep it over stones to fill gaps and then just hose with water. You will be amazed at what you can do with this stuff when you are not limited by knowing what you are doing.

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## crashdive123

Good stuff AS.

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## welderguy

Thanks for the great post AS, very informative.

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## randyt

thanks for posting some good and interesting info. lots of common sense there. 

nothing really to do with your post but i get a kick out of some folks. i built a log cabin years ago and built it on dry laid stone piers. somebody had asked about it and i told them and then heard all about how i should have did this or that. in a perfect world i guess i could have built a continuous foundation but i hardly had the funds for boards for a door and floor much less a full foundation. the old cabin is still standing 25 years later.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> thanks for posting some good and interesting info. lots of common sense there. 
> 
> nothing really to do with your post but i get a kick out of some folks. i built a log cabin years ago and built it on dry laid stone piers. somebody had asked about it and i told them and then heard all about how i should have did this or that. in a perfect world i guess i could have built a continuous foundation but i hardly had the funds for boards for a door and floor much less a full foundation. the old cabin is still standing 25 years later.


I hear you I slapped this cabin together in a week 30 years ago and drove by last summer and it is still standing. Really amazing because I just toe nailed roof studs on top log. I'm the guy on the left with the sun in my eyes. We have a guy here in the Homer area. This cabin is a Mile 15.5 on the East end Road just past Dead Womans Curve If you've seen it.

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## hunter63

So, What  are you using for footings?

Your reference to the basement chimney was a good option on use of concrete.
How does that draw?

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## randyt

that's a cool cabin. it has real character. my kind of construction.

ever see those housing developments that all the houses look the same? heck if a guy got tuned up down at the pub he could get lost in there.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> So, What  are you using for footings?
> 
> Your reference to the basement chimney was a good option on use of concrete.
> How does that draw?


These days I build on the ground with concrete but in the cabin above I just creosoted some big logs. There is no good gravel in Homer. I use what the land provides where ever I am. My next post will be on making wood shingles. Alaska has always provided my needs as long as I am willing to work for it.

There is plenty of rise for the chimney and rises two sections of pipe in the basement before exiting. I left it a little low because I'm thinking of making a small smoker on top for my wife.

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## Rick

AS - How does the basement stove chimney work for you with the snows you get? It looks like it might be 4 feet high and I know your snow is deeper than that. Any problems?

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> AS - How does the basement stove chimney work for you with the snows you get? It looks like it might be 4 feet high and I know your snow is deeper than that. Any problems?


It melts snow away from it. No problem.

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## dscrick

Really good stuff AS. Thanks for the post

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## Sourdough

Great thread Alaskan Survivalist. Is there a clean-out problem with the chimney, having a blind 90* turn......? I guess you could use a brush and a Shop Vacuum.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> Great thread Alaskan Survivalist. Is there a clean-out problem with the chimney, having a blind 90* turn......? I guess you could use a brush and a Shop Vacuum.


I do something a bit different to clean chimney. I always build chimneys so I can stoke fire to the point the stove and pipe are glowing hot. When creosote builds up I just build a fire with thin wood to get it hot and with a 4 foot flame coming out of the top of pipe I am pretty sure it is cleaned out. Too many people burn there house down because pipe installation can't handle the heat. I make sure mine can and use that to clean out creosote. Another big advantage of concrete, it does not burn. It is also built strong enough I could run a big plumbing snake through if I had to but I never clean chimneys, just burn them out.

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## Sourdough

I have wanted to build a chimney out of 10" well casing.

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## bikebum1975

Cool info Alaskan thanks for sharing

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## Dennis

Great post thanks.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

Back in the old days boards where made by splitting them. A tool called a “Froe” was used. It can make splits more accurately than an ax because it is set in place and then driven into wood. You want to use straight grained knot free wood (there is a knot everywhere there is a branch). You also should use some kind of soft mallet to drive froe to prevent it from burring.

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Once the wood begins to split the split is continued by prying with handle, working froe deeper and prying again. Spilt can be guided to make board thicker or thinner depending on direction pry. Straight boards would use smaller prying back and forth. Pulling away from log would narrow and pushing towards it would thicken board. Longer boards can be made if the grain of the wood allows it. 

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A draw knife will dress up edges or smooth surface if needed.

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A froe can be used to make wood for everything from a dog sled to the roof on your house. Your only limit is the grain of the wood you choose.

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## crashdive123

Another great post AS.

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## randyt

nice post, i recently made a froe from a auto leaf spring, i lucked out i had a spring with a eye already formed. bout all i had to do is straighten it out and grind a bevel.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> nice post, i recently made a froe from a auto leaf spring, i lucked out i had a spring with a eye already formed. bout all i had to do is straighten it out and grind a bevel.


+1, That's the way homesteaders need to think!

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## Rick

Hey SJJ, Take a look at this thread. WildWomen built exactly what you're talking about. 

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...ht=built+cabin

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## Alaskan Survivalist

I've considered cordwood but the thing about concrete is you have to build it so it can move or make it so it on a foundation that won't. That means building below frost level in Alaska. I did an experiment with vertical log building that is pretty simple. Actually I combined several methods to construct a cabin to compare. It is another funky cabin I threw up about ten days and needed a place to winter. I used 6x12 timbers for a wall on the other side and also big round logs for a room on the side too. Two sided vertical logs would be fast and easy but when wall starts getting long it gets wobbly so suggest building corners with two or three sided logs and runing walls with vertical logs. Most these logs are not sided or shaped at all and most would not be chosen to build a cabin but they were all within 100 feet of where I built cabin and I did not have the time or money to fool around. Notice most of the logs are only 4 feet long. Something you wanted and if you spent more time you could make a much better looking cabin. 

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## Alaskan Survivalist

As far as wood I think it would all be good but would need to be dried before used to prevent cracking. Logs should be stacked a few years with the ends painted to prevent cracking while drying and then cut for cordwood walls.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> Thanks AS, understand I'll have to work out the foundation issue.  Any suggestions on foundation construction and best type wood would be greatly appreciated.  I know going into this project that it is not going to be time effective, but I am hopeful it will be cost effective and has my interest.  My goal is to do it as solo as I can.


The foundation is the hard part. It would have to be double stacked blocks to be wide enough to support wall meaning twice the cost and twice the work. Depending on size and ground you are building on you may be able to build monolithithic slab but risky. Probably the cheapest way to build up here would be to set large piers crossed with timbers to set walls on.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> Thanks again.  Its a treat to have someone on the forum with your diversity of experience in building remote structures in this climate.


Check out this. Examble of vertical log contruction shown on the kind of piers that may work for your foundation.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/ainsworth86.html

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## randyt

here's a little storage shed i made from blow downs. figured i post a pict just as a example of making do. the pict is a little skewed but the building is level.




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## crashdive123

Well done on the shed.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

randyt, Nice shed, and it demonstrates a pricipal anyone building with logs should adhere to. Build the roof with enough over hang to keep rain off logs. Well done.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

In keeping with simple, cheap building methods for the homesteader there is no simpler easier way to heat your cabin than with a barrel stove. They are also large enough to heat a barn. I have one in my basement so I don’t track woods chips through my house and the heat rises to heat evenly but in a cabin I suggest putting close to the center of room. It is safer and heats more evenly than shoving it off in a corner. In my basement I use the wall as a heat sink and it stays warm long after fire has gone out. 

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The kits to convert oil drums cost about 50 bucks and have all you need except for the barrel, stove pipe and damper. 

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All you need for tools are a drill, a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade or some other way to cut barrel, a few wrenches and a screwdriver. I put the door on first, then legs, then stove pipe flange. That helps to line it all up. There are some rubber gaskets on bungs you will have to remove and then screw back in place. For a small cabin you may wish to make it smaller but you’ll need access to a welder. The barrels have two ridges bend in the middle to strengthen them and this should be where they should be cut down and will make alignment easier to weld giving an overlapping seam.

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When assembled you still need to build a fire in them outside and burn paint off. If you are concerned with looks after that there is heat resistant paint that will make them look nice.
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When installing stove pipe be sure to lap pipe so pipe sits inside the one below it. Creosote will accumulate in pipe and run down pipe. If pipe is installed the other way it will run outside pipe and be a fire hazard. This is not a 2000 dollar airtight, thermostatically controlled stove. Installing a damper in first section of pipe will slow burn rate as will the air gate in door but you will also need to think about the wood and how you stack it in stove. Un-split thick wood will burn slower and not as hot and type of wood will have bearing too. Save thick hardwoods to burn through the night. 

Time seems to change the meaning of words so I feel it necessary to define my definition of homesteading. Homesteading is not the farmer living in a remote location. Homesteading is building that farm or ranch from wilderness. Looking at developed homesteads is misleading. First you have to survive and overtime develop it more. This is just one more way to get there from here.

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## Pal334

Thanks for that. You are doing well, teaching us pilgrims  :Smile:

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## Rick

Do you use firebricks or anything inside to keep from burning out the barrel?

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> Do you use firebricks or anything inside to keep from burning out the barrel?


No I don't, but if you figure to have that barrel stove a long time they make some that are much thicker. You can tell them by the seem at top of barrel. The seam is about a half inch thick. I have never had one of those barrels burn out.

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## randyt

that's a nifty stove, have ya ever installed a baffle inside the stove?

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> that's a nifty stove, have ya ever installed a baffle inside the stove?


No. I have used the double barrel stack robbers but when I was disappointed in the heat production I installed a second door in top barrel and had a great oven/smoker.

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## randyt

i've often wondered how well those double kits worked, don't sound like it's to good. great smoker though.

i have heard that a baffle installed helps a lot with efficiency. 

i have a old oil barrel that i'm planning on making into a stove. i'd like to make a upright so it's more like a potbelly stove. this barrel is a little different than most, on the top it's stamped standard oil and marked 56 gallons, there's no ribs. the shape is just like a oak whiskey barrel except steel. that and the darn thing is galvanized, i'll just burn it off before using inside.

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## rwc1969

That's cool. I'm looking into something cheap and contained to use wood to boil down sap next spring. We are not allowed open fires, but an outside stove would be acceptable.

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## randyt

i was planning on tapping trees this spring but it got away from me and before i knew i wasn't ready. i'll be ready next year. i plan on using a 55 gallon drum for a sap boiling stove. i'm gonna lay the barrel on its side kinda dug into the ground a bit. i'll cut a door in one end, more or less just a opening, probably won't have a door.then on top which is really the side i'm gonna cut the side off so my sap tray will lay on top of the side. if my sap tray is 16 " wide i'll measure up on the side so when i cut it it'll be narrower than the sap tray. this will also put the sap tray in direct contact with the fire. i'm not gonna cut the entire side off. i'll leave 10 inches or so intact for a stove pipe. hope i explained it right. around here i can buy a barrel for 5 to 10 dollars so i wont have much in the cooker. i have a partial sheet of ss that i will fold up into a boiling tray. now i just need to get after it so i'll have it ready for next year.

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## hunter63

AS, cool stove.
Barrel stoves were a "must have" for 70's- 80's homesteaders. 
I think it was a matter of pride, ya know, like, "I did this stove for $30 bucks!"

I built one and used it briefly, then sold it when I found a Box stove for the garage/shop.

I found that they burned a lot of fuel, was either very hot and cooled down fast, tough to control.
Vent damper in the pipe works pretty well, as well as a draft adjustment on the front.

I see that in the pic. this must be a different kit, (more expensive?) as it does have draft control and clean out door. Early ones didn't have either.

A layer of sand in the bottom helps with burn/rust out.
An iron grate added also helps lift up the wood and help draft as well. ( I added one to my box stove, have burned down two in about 20 years)

Seems that if you don't use the stove for a while, and don't have the ash cleaned out it, draws moisture and will rust out sides and bottom after it has been heated and re-heated.

Have seen a couple that had a flat plate, cut in and welded on the top, so as to be used for a cooking surface.

The maple syrup cookers some were also built out of a 200gal oil tank laid on it's side.

As far as a viable stove, they still are very useful and good alternative to a $1500+ stove, and well worth the money.
If the drum does burn out the fixtures are still re usable on several more drums.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

Agreed, they are not efficient compared to air tights but like you said they don't cost 1500 dollars either. Another advantage to them is when I have been ready to upgrade I have never had any problem selling them for 200 dollars. 4 times what I have into them compared to getting much less than what I paid for better stoves when I sold them. Which brings me to another point. I adhere to the economic principals of "The Richest Man in Babylon". It is about accumulating wealth. As far as I'm concerned it is the path to economic success for the homesteader.

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## Rick

Well, it does beat the alternative of not being able to afford anything.

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## randyt

yea i can see that afford issue. buy a airtite and not being able to buy any thing else. but with a barrel stove there's money left over for a chainsaw, a mosin nagant, a case of ammo, etc. i'd stick with the barrel stove. :Smile:

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## hunter63

Ah, yes but never give up an opportunity to up grade, and make a little cash at the same time.
Then yiu can have all that stuff, and the $1500 stove as well.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

SETTING BLOCK WITHOUT MORTAR

The strength of block walls is in the bond beams (Cores filled with concrete and steel) not so much the block or mortar joints. I decided to set these block without mortar because I was going to fill each core for strength that bind each block in place and seal the wall with concrete to waterproof  it anyway but method is simple enough for those without previous experience. 

Corner blocks are set in place and square of building is checked measuring cross corner. 

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As walls go up you will need to check with level to keep walls straight.

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These small pieces of wood hold string line that is stretched from corner to corner to use as a guide to set blocks. Any place that sells block or concrete have them. 

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Using string line as guide set block close to it but not touching, that will push string line out making wall bow out when block is set to it. Also note gap between blocks. If blocks are set tight the corners will not work out and it is needed for a full 16 inch measurement the same as if using mortar. 

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I use a small hammer to knock off imperfections in block so it sets squarely in place. 

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Wall may begin to get wobbly depending on height of wall in which case I just fill some of the cores with concrete that bind the block together. Note that I am not filling the cores with the steel. I wait to pour them all at once prevent cold joints in reinforced bond beams.

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The walls are then sealed with just a mixture of sand and cement for waterproofing. Less porous than block. 

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This project is going to be my root cellar with a sunken solar green house above it. It will be 12 feet in the ground when finished. I you live in area that requires building codes there are surface bonding additives that are simply strands of fiberglass you mix with sand and cement to spread outside wall. This binds loose block since foundation codes only call for a bond beam every 2’ 6”. Filling each core I did not need it.

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## randyt

very interesting. keep it coming.

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## Rick

What's the difference cost vs strength between the method you used and a poured concrete wall? It appears you poured the slab and footers. I would think setting forms vs. laying block would be a wash time wise. I don't think I've ever seen blocks set dry like that. I can't say I've seen bond seams used either.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> What's the difference cost vs strength between the method you used and a poured concrete wall? It appears you poured the slab and footers. I would think setting forms vs. laying block would be a wash time wise. I don't think I've ever seen blocks set dry like that. I can't say I've seen bond seams used either.


Poured walls would be stonger at equal width and equal amounts of steel. The real question is block set with steel on 2 foot centers strong enough? Yes, I built my house next to it using conventional methods, mortar and codes, this is much stronger because I am going 4 feet deeper in the ground and I am using the wall as a heat sink. I have pictures of that but this post is about keeping it simple. Cost has to many variables depending on how much you do yourself? Are you making your own block? How much rock are you putting in forms? What you are missing is the manpower and equipment requirements. Note the only tools are a small mixer and a string line and for manpower just one old man with a bad back. This is a method for homesteaders that lack experience, manpower and equipment. Not filling cores with reinforcement is why places like Haiti are devistated by earth quakes. Most cores are filled at 2' 6" in the US. There are products like Q-bond which is for dry stacking and surface bonding block if you have the extra money and dealing with codes. This is a legitimate building method and the simplest one I have used.

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## Rick

Oh, I'm not questioning your methods. I'm just interested in how they compare. You said earlier you have spent time working concrete so I figured you would know. Whether the mortar method is used here because of code or more out of tradition I can't tell you but I've never seen the method you used so I learned something really good today and I thank you for that. I'm just trying to understand.

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## crashdive123

AS  -  Is your re bar embedded in the foundation?

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> AS  -  Is your re bar embedded in the foundation?


2 foot uprights are stabbed into footing while it is wet and then after block is set the steel for block is set in place. Rebar usually has 18 inch overlap to join it.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> Oh, I'm not questioning your methods. I'm just interested in how they compare. You said earlier you have spent time working concrete so I figured you would know. Whether the mortar method is used here because of code or more out of tradition I can't tell you but I've never seen the method you used so I learned something really good today and I thank you for that. I'm just trying to understand.


It's just another way. Heres the store bought stuff.

http://www.sakrete.com/products/prod...eBondingCement

Mortar is better for larger jobs because it can stack higher before grouting.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

Since I last posted on this thread several people have asked about sawmills to develop their land and make a few bucks on the side. The way some sawmills advertise you get the idea that all you need is their mill and you can take it right to the tree, saw it up and drive home with it all stacked on the trailer. There was a time I fell for that myself but it’s a bit more complicated than that and I could write a book on the subject explaining it. Instead I will just explain how I am setting up my next operation based on all I have learned over the years. 

First start small. If you can overcome problems like availability of logs, regulations even a small setup will make enough money to reinvest and grow operation. If you can’t you are not out near as much money. 

Second sawmills need support equipment and tools. The good news is the tools used to support a sawmill are most of what you need to get started not a sawmill costing 5000 dollars or more. What I have will fit in the trunk of my car and very productive. 

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I am partial to Stihl saws. Stihl makes two grades of saws and for humping through the woods felling trees I chose to use the professional grade 260. It is comparable to the Farmboss and while the motor is smaller it turns 1000 rpm faster and has lighter parts and a compression release. It also costs 200 dollars more.

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Using Hayden Lumber Maker bolted to a chainsaw bar is a very fast way to square a log. For this I use the Farmboss 290 Stihl. These are actually what Stihl calls a home owners model but they have been the work horse of my operations. A great value with good power and they last forever just not as light and burn a bit more fuel than pro models. Chainsaw mills have a greater capacity to cut long or large diameter logs than most sawmills and you will need these chainsaw mills any way to cut large logs down to a size your sawmill can handle. 

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Once the log is squared I use an Alaskan Mill to re-saw into lumber. While chainsaw mills cut slower set up time is faster and the Alaska mill needs no set up at all to start cutting lumber from cant. I power this mill with another of Stihls professional grade saws, the 220 E. This is an electric saw but not like any you have used before. I has power like the two gas saws and costs more than either of them. The advantages are it is quieter, does not need to be started, fueled in the middle of a cut and can be used indoors in the winter keeping production going all year. When I say these are comparable it is in more ways then just power. They all have 20 inch bars and 3/8 chain and can be used interchangeably in case of mechanical failure. If a sawmill breaks down production stops. The odds of 3 Stihls breaking down at the same time impossible.

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For trimming ends I will use a Prazi beam saw that converts worm drive saw. Sometimes I have used these to trim cant to a particular size rather than re-set Alaskan Mill.

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Chain maintenance is a big part of the job. Buying chain in bulk rolls will save money but you need a break and mend tool. I sharpen chains constantly and usually I just give it a few passes with a file but occasionally you should use this type of file guide that has depth setting to keep chain uniform otherwise some teeth will wear faster than other. Always keep your chains properly tensioned and bar tool handy. Circular saws are the quickest to sharpen but blades are domed and to hammer them is a special skill few people have. Band saw blades stretch and overheat just like a chain, dull faster when they cut into bark and will bend when they hit a knot leaving waves in the lumber. They have other problems that I won’t get into just know they don’t advertise their faults. 

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I have a chainsaw powered capstan winch for bring logs out of the woods. Pulleys and choke chains all fit in this tool bag. I will be getting another Farmboss to leave connected to it.

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Poly rope that does not stretch is need for winch. I use 3/8 leaded line left over from my long lining days rated to 2500 pounds. I use 250 feet to reach logs. A capstan can handle any length and this stuff comes in 600 foot rolls but more than this is hard to handle and becomes a tangled mess. 

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More misc. tools include an extra Hayden lumber maker for temporary set ups, what looks like a come-along is another rope winch, a short cant hook (get a large one and you’ll see why I use a small one), pipe with a sharp point to the side is a hookeroon to move and lift logs without bending over and the ramps will roll logs over obstacle or onto a trailer.

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I find it easier to build with shorter lumber than deal with large logs and the small end of log determines size of lumber and the longer it is the more it tapers down in size wasting wood. For now I will just use my small trailer and yard tractor to move logs from wood lot. I have hauled logs up 16 feet in length in the center of this trailer and I can also haul it with my compact car and do tree removal for friends and I keep the wood. Firewood is another by product you will have doing this too.

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If you purchase a sawmill you’ll wind up getting this stuff but if you get this stuff first you may find you may not need or want to get a sawmill. If you do you will have made enough money to pay for it.

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## randyt

nice post AS, 

loaded with great info, I've been wanting to try a chainsaw mill. I have tried the hayden style. instead of hauling the logs out do you ever cut the lumber right where the tree fell? It seems like hauling the finished product out would be more effective and the mess would be left. 

I must add to that you have some great gear. I have gear similar but it's wood handled. those composite handles are tough but shoot I can't bring myself to upgrade as long as my old stuff is still working and as long as there is a half dozen cant hooks hanging in the barn 

I don't know if I mentioned it before but my brother in laws and I have a 01 frick circular mill. I understand what you are saying about saw hammering. I gathered up my grandfathers  hammering bench and tools the other day. Even though I helped out in his shop I'm a long ways from properly hammering a saw.

you certainly touch a soft spot talking about logging and lumbering, brings back memories. thank you

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> instead of hauling the logs out do you ever cut the lumber right where the tree fell? It seems like hauling the finished product out would be more effective and the mess would be left.


I seldom do but occasionally will depending on situation. Mosquito's are thicker in the trees than in the open where the wind helps blow them away and you are at thier mercy with both hands full. It is easier to make one trip with the end of rope winch and let the winch bring the whole log out than me making half a dozen trips where I do all the carrying. I do cut trees to log lenght I need on the to make log handling easier. There are situations that I will saw them up on the spot. One is when I am building on that spot. No need to haul them out to haul them back in and the other is when I need long lenghts from big trees. The chainsaw winch has its limits. Those limits can be increased with a reaching arch and that is another piece of support equipment I would get before sawmill. Here is a few examples where I did. Note lenght of beams.

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## oldtrap59

Finally got around to going through this entire thread. A book's worth of info for an easy investment of just some time. Thankyou AS. Rep sent and well deserved.

Oldtrap

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## mosquitomountainman

Excellent, excellent thread.  I've seen better info here than in most books written on the subject.

Do you have grid electricity for the electric saws?  If you mentioned it I missed it.  

How do you mix the cement for the concrete blocks (what ratios, kind of cement, etc.)?

Thanks for the info on the cement block mold.  I've done web searches to try to find info for making blocks at home and the only thing that turns up is for commercial operations.

Great thread!  Thanks for posting it.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

There is one thing you won’t be able to get around if you are to develop land and that is excavation work. Growing up on a homestead, working gold claims and construction I tend to take this skill for granted. It’s not rocket science but you will need someone to show you how and I suggest if anybody you know that can teach you the basics and you can get some time at the controls jump on it. I know they have schools for it but it’s not that complicated and with a little instruction and a few hours of practice you will be able to operate most equipment good enough to do the job. 

I strongly recommend not buying machinery but renting it instead. You do not have enough work for it to justify the expense and renting you will always have the exact type of equipment for the job. Rental costs are completely tax deductible but only the depreciation is deductible if you buy. 

When I needed to put in a driveway and dig a basement for the block building previously shown I rented an excavator for half a day at the cost of 230 dollars and a 70 dollar delivery fee. 

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This job would have easily cost me 4000 dollars to have done.

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This mountain of dirt was moved in a couple of hours at a cost of 300 dollars. 

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Face it, you can’t move this much dirt by any other means and I while I have had a lot of machinery in my life had I figured this out sooner I could have saved myself a ton of money.

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## Rick

Another good post and great advice. I've operated a few items, boring machines, backhoes and cats. I've never had any formal training on any of it and it's not that difficult to operate. A big field and a little practice should get you going without running over too much. Good post!

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## Alaskan Survivalist

The first step is to set stakes in corners and set a string line to proper height. A line level is adequate for small jobs like this one. Level dirt using string line as gauge and then set outer form boards to string line.

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Then set inner forms using outer boards to gauge placement and use a torpedo level to adjust it to proper height. Set steel reinforcement in place tying it with bailing wire to cross ties to lift off ground. Back fill dirt around forms for added support. 

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I mix my own concrete most of the time. Mixed concrete cost 150 a yard last time I had it delivered. There are 4 sacks of cement to a yard at a cost of 12 dollars each so if I you have gravel you can mix it yourself for about a third the cost. It is labor intensive so larger jobs you will need bigger mixers and for even bigger jobs a delivery is still recommended.

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My mixer will mix one wheel barrow at a time and to prevent cold joints fill footing at alternating ends to prevent cold joints. If you start at one end and only fill in one direction the concrete may set before you get back around to it using a mixer. Also note that a temporary bridge was built to wheel over footing to fill from inside footing. Set uprights reinforcements (or anchor bolts for wood) as you go. For most foundation 2’ 6” is adequate but this will be a deep basement so I am setting these at 2 foot. Level concrete to outside form.

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I leave forms in place over night to set and strip forms the next day.

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I then pour the slab using the foundation to level it using a board to scrap it level. Work the large gravel down when leveling and as it begins to set use a skreed to smooth finish. As it sets harder increase the angle of skeed. 

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## Winter

Great stuff AS.

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## Pocomoonskyeyes3

Totally AWESOME Thread AS! I've learned more in the time spent reading this, than in all the times I have helped someone else do some construction project or other combined. Sadly I must spread the "Love" before I can Rep you again..... :Angry:  :angermanagement:  :Cursing:  "Rep system"!!!!

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## Alaskan Survivalist

> Excellent, excellent thread.  I've seen better info here than in most books written on the subject.
> 
> Do you have grid electricity for the electric saws?  If you mentioned it I missed it.  
> 
> How do you mix the cement for the concrete blocks (what ratios, kind of cement, etc.)?
> 
> Thanks for the info on the cement block mold.  I've done web searches to try to find info for making blocks at home and the only thing that turns up is for commercial operations.
> 
> Great thread!  Thanks for posting it.


Read post 11-Mixing concrete - It’s as simple as 1,2,3. That is 1 part cement, two parts sand, a tree parts aggregate (rock). The cement gets between the grains of sand and the sand fills the cap between the rock. As I mentioned in “Classifying Gravel”, ¾ minus has about the right mixture of sand and I just mix it 1 shovel of cement to 5 shovels of ¾ minus. Mortar is just as simple but a slight variation. It is One part cement “to” 3 parts sand for binding block or rock together or sealing outer walls. This is the basic mix and you may find time you will wish to add more cement for some applications and you will get a feel for that with experience.

I have electricity, a generator and solar power.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

Finishing Concrete

The previous thread made me aware I had not covered concrete finishing for floors or any other flat surface that will be left exposed. The slower a concrete slab dries the better. Laying plastic on the ground will prevent the ground from drawing moisture from the concrete. Set steel reinforcement with some rocks under it to lift into position and cover drains. Pour concrete as dry as you can, it is harder to work with, but will dry slower preventing surface cracks. Use a board that reaches across the slab to both form boards and level with a sliding motion. With drains work from the drains to the form board in the same manner. The next step is to push the gravel below the surface. A heavy wire screen called a jitterbug is pressed into the concrete to achieve this. Small or tight areas you can use the edge of your float making short strokes an inch apart to do this. Now use the float to smooth out as best as you can. As the concrete dries use a screed to work out imperfections. Begin with the screed almost flat and increase the angle and the pressure as it dries. Start with a small project like a stepping stone to get the hang of it.

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## Winter

I do that for a living AS and could not have described it better. The current project is a bit different though.

Gratuitous work pic the city inspector took.
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## Alaskan Survivalist

What are you building there?

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## crashdive123

Looks like some kind of bridge construction.

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## Winter

Yeah, a bridge.

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## Seniorman

Alaskas Survivalist, your pictures and descriptions are first rate.  I've watched people in the Sierra of California building cabins on their own, and they could have used your advice.

When building a concrete block basement, they used a sealant called "Yellowjacket" to seal the below-ground walls to prevent water from seeping in.  Also had "French drains" around the base of the walls.  Do you use a sealant for your concrete walls below ground?

Thanks.

S.M.

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## Alaskan Survivalist

I do use sealent. Good drainage is most important. Back filling with gravel and tapering ground away from building is also important.

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## cappaletti

this is all absolutely first rate info AS...thanks much for all the TIME & EFFORT involved in this thread... :Thumbup:  :Thumbup:  :Thumbup:

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## Alaskan Survivalist

Off Grid Power

A little electricity will make a big difference in your life so lets start there. This basic set up is completely portable and fits in 5 gallon bucket that is also used as a stand. 1 amp 15 watt solar panel can be set anywhere in the sun or it can just be leaned against the rest of the system. 

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I have cables set up so I can charge batteries on vehicles if needed. A low battery can leave you dead in the water if you have no way to charge it. 

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I'm using a small battery out of a garden tractor with a cigarette lighter socket. I use a 175 watt inverter that plugs into cigarette lighter socket. This will run my radio, mechanics hand held flourescent light, DVD player, charge cell phone, charge my AA and AAA batteries, etc. In this case I'm charging an 18 volt battery that powers a cordless chainsaw. 

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Living under battery power you quickly come to understand the importance of conservation and how it is easy to have a little electricity and how expensive it is to have a lot of electricity. This next system is as large as I feel is economically feasable and use conservation to live within its limitations. Susitna energy was very helpful with technical help and keeping it all compatable. I use two 6 volt batteries to make 12 volts. These are no maintenence storage batteries rated to deliver 400 watts for 20 hours each. The inverter is rated at 2000 watts with the capability to serge to 4000 watts. Note the large cables that connect it all. This reduces resistance. 

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I use a Honda 2000 watt generator to charge these batteries. It's quiet and will run 15 hours on a quart of gas. It is very portable and can be easily carried where needed. It is more reliable than renewable energy and very affordable when only run a couple hours a day during peak consumption and relying on batteries to store the power until needed the rest of the time.  

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The wind here is fierce but not consistent and while we have long summer days in the winter when you use more energy the days are short and usually cloudy. The generator/battery/inverter system is the most common system amoung those in Alaska that have systems that work. Still...."Every little bit helps". I am setting up a 135 watt solar panel and controller to be portable.
I would really have to conserve to operate within the power output of just this solar panel but run through batteries and inverter would be powerful enough to run most things just not as often.

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I'll be experimenting with a small hydro project and try to make a wood gas generator but when establishing a homestead is not the time for uncertain outcomes. My advice is use generator/battery/inverter then do your experimenting.

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## BENESSE

Not only is this thread bookmarked, I also just printed it out so I can frequently refer to it and let it all sink in. It's also something I'm certain Mr. B will "get" and enjoy knowing especially this last bit on off-grid power. (he's been reading Popular Science mag. half his life and has been a life-long fan of Mr. Wizard)
I wish most of my teachers were as good as you at conveying important stuff by making it simple and doable.

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## DavidWoods

I can't see the photos?

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## kyratshooter

> I can't see the photos?


Since the thread is 6 years old and the OP has not been around since 2013 the absence of photo access from a third party server is hardly surprising.

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