# Survival > Survival Kits & Survival Products >  So You're Looking For The Best Survival Knife... What Do You Do?

## MCBushbaby

(Decided to make a "what's the best knife" thread that can be stickied to avoid future "what's the best knife" posts.  Recommend additions as necessary).

Welcome to the wonderful world of biased opinions, individually personal experience, and advertising gimicks.  You can read up on article after article on Knife A on one site, but low and behold another sight recommends Knife B above all others.  Likewise you'll see ads throughout your search sporting "the most complete survival knife package!" for only $45.  So which one are you going to chose?  Are you going to chose by brand?  Reviews?  Price?  Military?  Oh your head must be spinning by now like a 1950s cinematic drunk scene.

OK, OK, sit down a second.  Here's a cool glass of water.  *THERE IS NO UNIVERSAL BEST SURVIVAL KNIFE*.  Sorry.  Let this be clear and bold in your mind.  It's like the perfect hiking boot.  Everyone's tastes are different, everyone's foot shape is different, and everyone's expectations and situations are different.  It's just not going to happen.  So these recommendations are just that, recommendations.  If someone says "this knife is the best knife, hands down, don't look any farther" then for the sake of all that is filled with chocolate mousse, keep looking!  

Now let me run you through the things you should be looking for first and foremost:

1 Blade material
2 Tang construction
3 Blade length
4 Point strength
5 Blade thickness
6 Handle construction
7 Guard type
8 Fixed vs Folding?

Now I'm not going to say the perfect type in each of the above 6 categories because, again, everyone has a different preference.  I'm in the sub-boreal region near Canada so my needs and expectations are different than someone living in Arizona or Florida.  But I'll try to narrow the choices so you can stay on track with what is "expected" of a survival knife.

*1.  Blade Material*
You have two, and only two, choices here.  High quality CARBON STEEL and high quality STAINLESS STEEL.  The difference between carbon steel and stainless steel is that carbon steel is harder, holds an edge better and works with flint to produce sparks.  Stainless steel is generally softer, doesn't hold and edge as well but does not rust easy.  So for wet or humid environments, stainless would be your best bet.  For heavy work or cutting hard objects (like in bushcrafting), carbon will be your friend. Do not be fooled by knives stamped with "made in China".  These are notoriously bad quality steel (most of the time stainless steel) even if the manufacturer is name brand.

*2. Tang Construction*
Only accept full tang construction.  This means the billet of steel that forms the blade extends the length and width of the handle.  What does this mean?  Solid, rugged construction that will not break under pressure or strain.  Most "survival knife packages" that have the hollow handle have a false tang construction meaning the handle and blade are held together by rivets, a bolt or even glue (shudder).  At the first whack your blade will break off.  DO NOT BUY THESE CHEAP IMITATIONS.  There is a middleground tang construction called narrow tang where the tang tapers as it enters the blade.  It's almost as strong as full tang and provides adequate durability but it's just not the same.

*3. Blade Length*
Here is where regionalisms causes differing opinions.  Now a person new to survival may look at a Rambo or Bowie and think "wow, I can survive with that" but trust me, you can't.  These big knives are made for combat, person vs person, not bushwork and survival.  However if you are in a jungle, a machete is a notable exception.  A kukri as well, though it may not be able to do smaller jobs.  The generally accepted blade length range is between 4 and 6 inches.  Mors Kochanski, the premiere Canadian bushcrafter, recommends a knife blade no longer than the width of your palm.  Any longer and it becomes cumbersome and heavy, and any shorter it cannot function well.  PLEASE AVOID 12" BOWIES AS SURVIVAL KNIVES.

*4. Point Strength*
You use the point more often than you think so it's important it won't break in the field.  Usually based on the thickness of the overall blade, the point does not need to be thin and razor-sharp for it is not made for thrusting into a man like a bayonet.  A good test for point strength is to thrust the point into a log or 2x4 with all your strength and pry it out, without pulling.  If the tip bends or breaks, you know the knife is not adequate.

*5. Blade Thickness*
Too thin and the knife will not hold up to the rigors of life in the bush.  Too thick and it becomes to cumbersome to do any job effectively.  A general range is between 5/23" and 1/4".  If your blade is thinner, don't try to pry or do heavy chopping work with it as it's designed for lighter loads such as cutting cordage, carving and skinning.  If the blade is thicker, it can be used more easily as a hacking device or for prying.  There are pros and cons of each thickness but try to stay within this range.

*6.  Handle Construction*
While the rest of your knife may be solidly build, a cheap plastic handle can break and leave you with just a piece of steel blade.  Make sure the handle material is a quality rubber, wood, or synthetic material.  If you have any doubt, google the handle material and look for reviews and quality tests.

*7.  Guard Type*
Many people ignore the guard but if you want to fully utilize the knife, the proper guard is important.  For fighting and combat, a full guard (top and bottom, even sides) are important as they deflect the opposing blade from your hand but for bushcrafting you may want to move your hand up on the blade for delicate work.  No guard, on the other hand, is an accident waiting to happen.  A slippery handle can cause your fingers to slip over the blade edge.  I've come to recommend an underside guard only (a slight guard that separates your fingers from the blade edge).  This protects your hand while maintaining freedom to work with the knife from any hand position.

*8.  Fixed vs. Folding?*
Usually a survival knife is fixed.  Why?  Because no moving parts means no possibility of part failure.  However a good dependable folder can stand toe-to-toe with the best fixed blade.  The choice is yours.

*Other Thoughts*
*The knife sheath protects your knife as well as yourself.  A good quality plastic sheath is pretty much the standard nowadays though leather is still a popular choice.  Make sure there is a way to secure your knife in the sheath such as by a strap or buckle.  If you invert the sheath, the knife should not fall out.
*A lanyard hole in the handle of the knife is a useful addition as you can attach a good quantity of paracord for survival use.  It can also work as a wrist strap if you don't want your knife to fall from your hand during work.
*Serrations are useful when you plan to cut fabric and synthetic materials such as climber's rope.  If you do not plan to do this type of work in the bush, avoid serrations as they are incredibly difficult to sharpen in the bush.
*"Saw blade" knives, that have teeth on the blade spine (or top of the knife), meant to cut wood usually are not efficient at it.  You see these a lot on the "rambo" knives but the history of these notches can be traced to bayonets, ripping the internal organs as they penetrate.  So in fact most of these notches can't even cut wood.  Try to avoid these effects as much as possible.
*Keep your knife sharp at all times and protect it against the elements.  A dull or rusty knife can be the cause of more injuries than a keen, clean blade.
*Rockwell Hardness Factor:  Look for steel hardened at least above 57.  The higher the number, the harder the steel.  However be aware that steel higher than 60 will be more difficult to sharpen so you may need to get a diamond honing stone.

So if the knife you are looking at on Site Y meets the criteria above, you can be sure it'll be a great survival knife.  You don't need the "best" and you won't be getting the "worst".  All top 10 (if there is a universal rank out there, which there is not) knives have the above properties.  So long as the knife you're looking at getting has them, you have a top 10.

*Still not convinced or undecided?*
Well here is a short (SHORT!) list of recommended, tried and true, survival knives:

Cold Steel SRK (personal experience has taught me the 6" blade is a little too long for most tasks, though it helps in splitting wood via baton)Buck VanguardBecker BK10Fallkniven H1SOG Seal PupFrosts Mora S-1RAT-3 or RAT-5

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## remy

Good post...i would add 2 to your SHORT list.

Full-size USMC KA-BAR.
Ontario RAT.

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## Beo

Great post Mitch, and all true. Buuuuuuuut I would say I like the home made old style knives better such as a longhunters knife, but that's just me. 
Great post.

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## Beo

This is the type of knife I am looking for
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To me (and its only opinion now) this is the best, I have used several like this before but need a new one if anyone can make one like this give me a pm or let me know.
Thanks
Beo,

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## carcajou garou

The best knife is the one you have used, cared for, sharpened, have faith in
and have with you at the time of need. 
Lots of people buy/chase the next perfect knife and never use any of what they do have.
Beowulf likes a larger knife style that he has already used, who can fault him, not me.

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## Scott

Anyone have an opinion on a short (4-5" blade) Ka-Bar as a general use survival knife? I just picked up a Buck 119 Special today and it seems overly long as well as a little unbalanced, it seems to want to fall forward when you ease your grip.

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## Ole WV Coot

A survival knife is of course the one you have with you. Sounds like you want to carry a blade that can scare everyone who sees it. If you don't have it on you at all times it won't work. I know folks that get a concealed carry permit and a week later they either leave the handgun at home, in the truck or somewhere because it gets heavy & hard to carry. Guess if they need one they can whip out their carry permit and scare their attacker. Carry a decent blade always !!!

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## Sarge47

Great post Mitch!  You've said it all, just about!  The only other thing I would add is some info on the "Rockwell Hardness test"!  Really enjoyed reading this.  You put the whole issue into one easily digested post!   :Cool:  :Cool:

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## NorthWindTrails

I agree with Sarge, Mitch ... Super Post! And I do see your "point" (pun intended), about the cumbersome nature of a Bowie style knife. Having larger hands, myself, I still like carrying my USMC Ka-Bar. It wouldn't be the "only" knife I'd have, if I had my druthers. A 4-1/2 inch full tang fixed blade sheath knife of good carbon steel would be my second. Thanks for the great post!  NorthWind

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## Sarge47

1st, just let me say that I agree with Remy about the great quality of the USMC Kabar, of which I had before giving it as a gift to my son who served with pride in the US Marines, as well as his opinion of the RAT-7.  They are definately high-quality knives.  I would not, however, recommend them as "Survival knives" as they conflict with what Mitch was laying down in Point #3; Blade Length.  ("...between 4-6 inches...").  I do believe that some of us could handle either of these knives well, but that doesn't make them a "Survival" Knife in the true sense of the word.   I would, however, recommend the Buck Vanguard with the Rubberized handle as it's short blade length is more keeping in line with what Mitch was teaching.  Just my "2 pennies." :Cool:

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## Robbie Roberson

Great post.

         In my opinion......... :Stick Out Tongue:  the best survival knife is the one that you have on you when the survival mode starts....... to do the hourly, daily chores to keep you in the "surviving mode" until you no longer need to practice surviving.

         Example: this very minute, the knife you have on you is to be used for your survival........ :Embarrassment: 


         Robbie Roberson.

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## bladefrenzy

I think some here maybe have been misled by some of the older knife steel "myths".  I do not consider myself a know-it-all in the knife world, but I am a maker.  Carbon steels are for the most part softer than stainless.  Most carbon steel knives are tempered to have a hardness of around 54 to 57 rc.  While most stainless knives are a bit harder 57 to 60, with some of the so called super steels running around 60 to 62.  This is the reason for the poularity of the diamond hones with a lot of knife "folks".

Believe me when I say this is not to knock carbon steel at all.  As several here may already know, some of the softer carbon steels can and do actually hold an edge longer than there stainless counterparts.   I myself prefer stainless for my folding knives . Which includes everything from Saks to high tech one handers.  But for anything fixed it's carbon steel for me.  Tougher , more flexible and easier to sharpen.  

I would also like to add that Stainless doesn't mean "rust free" either.   It means it "stains less".  Rusts less that is.  I live in N.E. Miss. and still, in our very humid weather, prefer carbon steel for my fb's.  I have had stainless rust from a day's light use , mostly due to bead blasted coarse finish.  When a light coat of oil or Tuff Cloth will protect a carbon blade for a good while.  Try mineral oil (food grade) if you plan on using the blade for food prep.  

Hope this helps.   Steve

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## Rick

I think ya'll are missing the point and riding around in the back of the turnip truck. Read Mitch's first bulleted item. *THERE IS NO UNIVERSAL BEST SURVIVAL KNIFE.* Everything after post #1 is pretty much opinion, which Mitch artfully dodged. By the way, Mitch. You missed my little Buck folder on the list. :Big Grin:

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## Scott

I would have to agree with Rick. Mitch's run down mirrors almost exactly the criteria most wilderness survival instructors recommend in a knife. As I mentioned earlier, I picked up a Buck 119 and found it's 6" length to be to long for my taste. It also seemed to have little balance. I perfer 4-4.5" blade length as it affords far more control especially for individuals who have less experience with using knives. But like a good pair of boots, everyone has their own "fit".
BTW Rick, do you have any experience with the Vanguard? I have been looking for a while to check out that knife but closest I have come to it is a Buck Zipper...Which looks similar but has the gut hook...Any info would be great...thanks

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## Sarge47

> I would have to agree with Rick. Mitch's run down mirrors almost exactly the criteria most wilderness survival instructors recommend in a knife. As I mentioned earlier, I picked up a Buck 119 and found it's 6" length to be to long for my taste. It also seemed to have little balance. I perfer 4-4.5" blade length as it affords far more control especially for individuals who have less experience with using knives. But like a good pair of boots, everyone has their own "fit".
> BTW Rick, do you have any experience with the Vanguard? I have been looking for a while to check out that knife but closest I have come to it is a Buck Zipper...Which looks similar but has the gut hook...Any info would be great...thanks


I have both the Vanguard and the 120/Buck General.  The General is the longer version of the 119.  I gave MY 119 to my younger son, who really likes it, BTW
I view both the 119, 120, and Ka-Bar as good all-around "hunting knives".  But the balance on the Buck VG is great and it makes a great "Survival" knife. :Cool:

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## Rick

No, Scott, I don't. I've never used it. I was just offering a bit of irony to Mitch. His short list is growing by the post. 

I should have cited Hopeak for his sage advice (might even warrant a reference in your write up Mitch along with Sarge's suggestion on hardness). 

Hopeak - That little bit of advice would serve well in just about any of life's conversations. Men with Mr. Reeves' insight are a rare bread and worth listening to.

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## Beo

Carcajou Garou he's right, the best knife is the one you have used and are used to, no one... not anyone on this forum or even the God of War Ranger Rick can tell me that my longhunter knife is not a great survival knife, hand forged and crafted is just as good if not better than mass produced cold steel machine made knives (which by the way I do like and trust as a good knife) SOG knives, or any other knife on the market, price does not make a good knife, craftmenship and the uses it has makes a good knife. Everything from the K-Bar is the best to SOG, to Cold Steel or even my own knife is a personal preference. I have seen the expensive SOG SEAL knife break under normal use, not sh*t it broke when the back side was being used to pry open a tin in a C-Rat meal. Now I know this isn't how you should use this knife, but for that amount of money ($100.00 to $160.00)... chedder... moola... coin... or what ever you wanna call it I better be able able to pry open the lid of a can. What I'm trying to say here boys and girls the best knife for you is the one that you are comfortable with.
Lets not beat this to death. And don't forget what I asked in my above post  :Big Grin: 
Beo,

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## MedicineWolf

Carcajou Garou & Beo are right.

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## Beo

Ahhh thank you, thank you very much.

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## FVR

I've got a rock downstairs that has gutted a few deer, (not mine) hogs (yes, mine) and has skinned out numerous hogs, deer, otters, and a raccoon.

It's the best knife for that job.

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## Sarge47

> No, Scott, I don't. I've never used it. I was just offering a bit of irony to Mitch. His short list is growing by the post. 
> 
> I should have cited Hopeak for his sage advice (might even warrant a reference in your write up Mitch along with Sarge's suggestion on hardness). 
> 
> Hopeak - That little bit of advice would serve well in just about any of life's conversations. Men with Mr. Reeves' insight are a rare bread and worth listening to.


Beu, I would not argue the point that many of us here have knives with longer blades than what Mitch suggested.  I thought his post was directed more for the "young" Neophyte looking for his 1st blade.  There are many things that might come up. :Cool: 

Remy; I stand corrected on the RAT, you are right on about the different blade lengths, definetly something to think about.  & I'm not "Dissing" the Ka-Bar either, but I wouldn't suggest it to , say, a 13-year old "neophyte" either for reasons that I've stated elsewhere, but then that's me. :Cool:

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## FVR

Wow, I got my first Kabar when I was 12.  Bought it for 20 bucks from a guy down the street that was in the Navy, (MK2).   I collected aluminum cans and old doors, turned them in an bought me a Kabar.  I knew I was going to be a Jarhead when I was 12.

Except for bootcamp, that Kabar has gone all over the world with me.

Still have it.

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## Scott

Hey, Thanks for the info on the VG Sarge....I finally tracked one down this morning (didnt buy it do to the dealer wanting $100, will buy it online), it was really a great knife and the right length I have been looking for. The blade seemed thicker than the Zipper but that is a plus. Only remaining VG question I have is do you think it would hold up to limb chopping, whittling or battoning if needed?...Thanks again for the info. Everyone here seems to have great knowledge...It has helped alot.

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## Sarge47

> Hey, Thanks for the info on the VG Sarge....I finally tracked one down this morning (didnt buy it do to the dealer wanting $100, will buy it online), it was really a great knife and the right length I have been looking for. The blade seemed thicker than the Zipper but that is a plus. Only remaining VG question I have is do you think it would hold up to limb chopping, whittling or battoning if needed?...Thanks again for the info. Everyone here seems to have great knowledge...It has helped alot.


The VG was shown in a past Field & Stream issue as being a great Survival knife because of the Hilt.  It only extends out from the bottom, not the top, making it a good knife to use for "batoning".  When you have a hilt that extends both ways the top can interfere with what you're trying to do.  Don't blame you going online to get it.  This seems to be the losest price I found, but there maybe something lower elsewhere:

http://www.gpknives.com/advanced_sea...uard&x=41&y=13

Hope this helps! :Cool:

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## Scott

Hey thanks again everybody for all the great info. Taught me alot. I went ahead and bought the vg from amazon for $49.99 and why I was at it I also shopped around and couldnt help but pick up a Mora 2000 for $29 with no shipping fees. Both Knives should work out well for what I need, mainly light chopping and shelter building/field work.
That Bear Grylls guy used the Buck Zipper (gut hook version of vg) during his everglades episode and seemed to think well of it. Can't wait to run the vg and mora through their paces......Thanks again....and thanks for a great forum...i could spend hours on here....

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## Nativedude

> Anyone have an opinion on a short (4-5" blade) Ka-Bar as a general use survival knife? I just picked up a Buck 119 Special today and it seems overly long as well as a little unbalanced, it seems to want to fall forward when you ease your grip.


First off. . .Welcome to the insanity Scott!

The Frost Mora model S1 i a great survival knife. Cost is around $18. They hold an incredible edge, are big enough to handle all you will need it fr in the wilds, yet are small enough to keep you out of trouble with the law and the anti-knife zealots (it won't scare them into oblivion)!

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## marberry

well it all depends on what your surviving from now doesnt it lol.  in the temperate bush i like a nice fixed 119 type knife (thats if ur only carrying 1) sub artic id want something a lil more heavy suck as a small kukri or a kershaw outcast. if your in an alley id want a nice buck knighthawk or any crkt or cold steel fixed blade. if your somewhere where knives are illegal or close to id want the crkt hissatsu folder (which i cant w8 to get by the way) , if i was in angola id want a crkt ultima .... get my point? it all depends on the situation, resources, and law.

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## Beo

Okay I got the correct for: Looking For The Best Survival Knife... What Do You Do? 

Ask me :Big Grin:

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## hermitman

I like the colt combat commander its all one part one side is full blade other is serrated and at the other end is a wire cutter. A knife that I would like to know more about is the tracker way to expensive for me but I hear it has a good reputation looks like it would work well but again to expensive for me anyways.

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## BatCat

> First off. . .Welcome to the insanity Scott!
> 
> The Frost Mora model S1 i a great survival knife. Cost is around $18. They hold an incredible edge, are big enough to handle all you will need it fr in the wilds, yet are small enough to keep you out of trouble with the law and the anti-knife zealots (it won't scare them into oblivion)!
> 
> Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.




I got quite a few of these.  I got a good deal a few years ago on a bunch ($4.99 a piece for 10 or more) so I bought 10  :Big Grin: 

At the other end of the range,  I've got a BK-9 which got carried all over the center of the island in Okinawa; same with a Nepalese Kukri I picked up on one of my excursions to Nepal.  Both these blades serve well for chopping.  I've also got a few of my own design (Yes, I make knives in my off-time) that work well.


I guess what I'm trying to say is it all boils down to what works for you.  Both large and small blades work for me, and they all have tasks that they can perform better than others.


This is only my opinion, which is worth what you just paid for it



BatCat

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## Beo

Hermitman, I actually have a Tracker knife, the one Tom Brown Jr. makes and its a great knife, too expensive is right, I got mine as gift because I wouldn't pay that much for a knife $230.00 bucks, but it has its draw backs also. I have found it too bulky and heavy, Blade Length: 4 1/4", O/A Length: 11 7/8", Draw Knife: 2 1/8", Saw: 2 1/2", Thickness: 1/4", 1095 high carbon steel and rust proofed black traction coating. The knife is real nice and I put it through a heck-of-a test, it did great and worked outstanding, but once again it is bulky, heavy and hard to manage at times. Tom Brown Jr. now has the Tracker 2 knife wich is the same but a bit smaller and loos real good.
Hope this helps.
Beo,

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## BatCat

> Hermitman, I actually have a Tracker knife, the one Tom Brown Jr. makes and its a great knife, too expensive is right, I got mine as gift because I wouldn't pay that much for a knife $230.00 bucks, but it has its draw backs also. I have found it too bulky and heavy, Blade Length: 4 1/4", O/A Length: 11 7/8", Draw Knife: 2 1/8", Saw: 2 1/2", Thickness: 1/4", 1095 high carbon steel and rust proofed black traction coating. The knife is real nice and I put it through a heck-of-a test, it did great and worked outstanding, but once again it is bulky, heavy and hard to manage at times. Tom Brown Jr. now has the Tracker 2 knife wich is the same but a bit smaller and loos real good.
> Hope this helps.
> Beo,


I had a Tracker knife for a coupla years.  It was indeed too awkward.  I sold it on ebay.

I do have a TOPS Moccasin Ranger that I'm also fond of

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Got it as a gift a few years back.  Its a great all around blade


BatCat

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## Beo

Your pic says you hotlinked it and won't show but I took a look at it and its a nice knife.
Good choice.

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## Beo

*Survival knives* are intended for survival purposes when lost in a wilderness environment. Military units issue some type of survival knife to pilots in the event they may be shot down. Hunters, hikers, and other outdoor sport enthusiasts also purchase and use great numbers of commercial survival knives. Some survival knives are heavy-bladed and thick; others are more lightweight or fold in order to save weight and bulk as part of a larger survival kit. Previous to the late 19th century, outdoorsmen and military personnel did not use knives that were notably different from the knives used by butchers. Bladestock was relatively thin and the handles were often no more than two wooden slabs riveted to the tang. Around the turn of the century, Webster Marbles introduced the modern concept of the "hunting knife." These knives incorporated heavier blades, crossguards, and pommels. They very much resembled miniaturized Bowie knives. Case, Cattaraugus, and other cutlery manufacturers soon introduced similar knives of their own and it is from these that the modern concept of the survival knife is descended. These knives, along with machetes and bolos constituted survival knives as used by military, explorers, and outdoorsmen up through at least the 1930s.
During WWII, survival knives were issued to aircraft crew, as it was a real possibility that these personnel might be shot down over wilderness or behind enemy lines. Lifeboats aboard naval vessels also frequently contained survival kits including knives. These knives varied in design from one branch of the service to another and from one nation to another. The majority of them were simply commercial knives purchased in bulk by the military. From the Vietnam-era and to present, purpose-built survival knives evolved. The serrations often seen on more recent survival knives are intended to allow aircrewmen to cut their way free through the relatively thin metal skin of a crashed helicopter or airplane. They do not function well as woodsaws nor are they intended as such. Those knives that do include functional saw-teeth still suffer from lack of blade length limiting the thickness of what can be cut when used as a saw. Other features, such as hollow handles that could be used as storage space for matches or similar small items, began gaining popularity in the 1980s, with this knives there is a trade off, they are usually very fragile and prone to breaking. Custom or semi-custom makers such as Jimmy Lile andBo Randall are often credited with inventing those features, but all of them can be found individually in earlier commercial knives. The movie _Rambo_ may legitimately be credited with having created the market demand for large, serrated, hollow-handled survival knives. Knives of that description are even sometimes referred to as Rambo knives.
Some militaries, including the US, have redesigned the bayonet used with their issued rifle to include survival knife features. Historically, bayonets had functioned poorly as field knives, due to being designed primarily to turn a rifle into a thrusting weapon and only secondarily (if at all) to work as a field knife. The newer models function more acceptably for mundane tasks while retaining the capability to be attached to the muzzle of the rifle.

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## BatCat

> Your pic says you hotlinked it and won't show but I took a look at it and its a nice knife.
> Good choice.


Heaven forbid I do any advertising for them.  I've definitely spent enough money there.

I fixed the link



BatCat

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## chopp29

I just purchased a Buck Stryder Solution Model 888. But I think Rick is the one that pointed out it is a bit pricey. But for me, I am totally satisfied with it. Good solid knife. Another good suggestion if you can spin about $90-$160, depending on where you purchase it, the RAT-5 is a very good choice. Are any RAT knives for that matter. Just a suggestion. Good luck.

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## Rick

RATs are good knives. I can't argue with much made by Ontario: 

http://www.ontarioknife.com/adventure.html

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## trooper

I got my dad a Tracker and he likes it but says its too bulky and heavy. He gave me an Army Survival Knife, a Deer Antler longhunter he made (he really likes these old things), and a cool knife he carried in the Rangers with a paracord wrapped handle. My mom gave me a folder but its cheap and she didn't know any better but she tried I guess.

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## MCBushbaby

http://www.barkriverknifetool.com/

Bark River Knives are a local, well at least in the Keweenaw, knife maker.  Both custom and prefab.  Great quality from what I hear, though I don't have the cash to try any out.

They even have knife sections for Bushcraft and Survival

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## Rick

Those are nice looking knives. The only thing I don't like about them is no protection between handle and blade. I have this phobia about my hand sliding right out on the blade and ....... ohhhhh.

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## NY MtnMan72

I have two Gerber knives.... for a "survival" knife being that i am going to use it for other jobs than just cuttiing... i want a little larger fixed blade type. I also reccommend that at least one surface be serrated, for tougher cutting, and because it seems to stay sharper longer.  

First one I have had for oh about a year or so-  Gerber Prodigy...  9.8 inches, i think the blade about 4.5 inches... one side partial serrated.

Just bought- dont even have it yet (off Ebay) the newer  Gerber LMF Infantry knife....  like the prodigy- little bigger, more indestructable, has great butt cap, great quality single side partial serrated....

NO i did not buy it because i saw it on man =vs= wild.... blecch i cant stand him anymore! 
I bought it after reading an article in Field and Stream which reviewed 4 or 5 of the most popular tactical/survival type knifes and this knife won....

Not saying its "the best" ,  it has the features that IM looking for- and that's the only reason you should buy any particular knife- not cus someone thinks its cool.   I handled this knife at the sales counter at Gander Mtn,  then knew that i could do better than retail on ebay and sure enough- i picked one up for $65 rather than the $99 Gander mtn wanted....... :Wink: 

Oh-  by the way....  Smith's also makes a great little pocket sharpener, that has a carbide sharpener, a ceramic one right next to it, and a fold out diamond round tapered sharpener for doing serrated edges...  its like an inch by two inches or so, and featherlite...  a great buy for around $10.... :Smile:

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## Scott

I too own a gerber prodigy and with the exception of the serrations(can't stand serrations) this knife is great. Great balance, great feel, and not to cumbersome. I picked it up for around $50 retail. Shortly after buying it I picked up the LMFII Infantry. This knife feels great for it's weight and size, exceptionally balanced, and looks just dang awesome. 
Unfortunately, the handle of the LMF is not as durable as the prodigy. The handle material is very thin at the guard and tends to "peel" away if you arent careful with it. I have heard of guys having to glue their handles back together with super glue and shoe glue, and to be honest, I have little faith in its handles overall durability, it just wont hold up over time. So due to this issue i definatley feel the prodigy is the better of the two.
One good bit of info, I recently talked to my knife dealer and he was told by a gerber rep that a new, overhauled version of the LMF is due out very soon. Supposedly it will feature an improved handle, and have either a straight/serrated edge or just a straight edge if you dont want serrations. Cant wait to see it.

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## prrrfukt

hmmm, very cool knives, I'm wondering, anyone know where to get ones that fit comfortably around your leg/thigh for easy access??

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## nell67

Try your local hunting /sporting goods store,or look them up online,try ebay.

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## prrrfukt

yeah as for local hunting/sporting goods...the only ones i know of are WAY out of my way...I have tried looking it up online, but i don't know what it would be called, if anyone knows that would be helpful

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## trax

try the knife companies on line. They often have custom sheaths, the ones you described are usually for throwing knives like Salma Hayek used in the "desperado" movies.

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## prrrfukt

I dont watch desperado movies...but thats one of the things I want it for  :Wink:  

You see I'm pretty new to this whole survival ordeal, when I first met my bf I used to think he was crazy and paranoid, but lately I've been thinking, and I don't know if its his attitude thats rubbed off on me, or my actually coming to my senses but here I find myself looking for a good knife, because this summer my ol' fella and I are going to go on our first "living off the land" expidition...I am going to ACE at knife throwing, I will become the next....uhhh...knife thrower extraordinaire??...

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## trax

If it's a living off the land expedition there may be other things you want to get good at before knife throwing, just a thought.

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## prrrfukt

That's the whole reason for the expedition, the first of many to come, Im really nervous but also excited

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## nell67

Remember,if you kill it,you clean it!

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## trax

See that's the thing. Those of us already here don't know what knowledge base a newcomer might have. The details of the expedition matter as well. Are you doing a lot of hiking or trekking? Then knowing what boots to wear is more important than throwing a knife.

Is the water where you're going clean? Do you know for sure? Water purification plan might be more important than throwing a knife.

How are you at firebuilding? There he goes again  :Smile:  You see where I'm going with this, and there are plenty of threads here with good information, but if you have any questions, throw 'em out there.

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## prrrfukt

> Remember,if you kill it,you clean it!


Count on that!  :Smile: 

Trax: I see where you are going with this, but in the event that something happens and you find yourself stranded in the middle of nowhere, you might not have the proper shoes, or water purification tablets, but the knife is something I plan on carrying with me at all times.  

I do have purification tablets and I'm a smoker so I always have a lighter handy (and I also have a flint, and if that doesn't work I do know how to start one and so does me ol' fella.)

The only thing that I would need help in is what plant life is safe to eat but for that I need to know which location I will be in and at the moment that is undecided, as soon as we figure it out though we will do some research on that area.  

Sorry for getting off topic but I appreciate your concern and will ask more questions when Im ready to go all out.  :Smile:

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## nell67

> Count on that! 
> 
> Trax: I see where you are going with this, but in the event that something happens and you find yourself stranded in the middle of nowhere, you might not have the proper shoes, or water purification tablets, but the knife is something I plan on carrying with me at all times. 
> 
> I do have purification tablets and I'm a smoker so I always have a lighter handy (and I also have a flint, and if that doesn't work I do know how to start one and so does me ol' fella.)
> 
> The only thing that I would need help in is what plant life is safe to eat but for that I need to know which location I will be in and at the moment that is undecided, as soon as we figure it out though we will do some research on that area. 
> 
> Sorry for getting off topic but I appreciate your concern and will ask more questions when Im ready to go all out.


purrrfukt,the time should be now to go all out and learn everything you can about the plants,you really need to find out NOW where you are going,plant identification doesn't come to you over night,it is a long,long process! One that could prove fatal with one mistaken plant,and there are lots of look alike plants out there.

Forget the knife for now,and concentrate on the plants.

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## trax

naaah, comes down to the where and when of the expedition. Without that there isn't any valid advice to offer because it's impossible to answer specifics.

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## crashdive123

Prrr, it's been said in many other threads, but I think deserves repeating here.  The advice that you are getting (and will continue to get) is very sound.  Not knowing your skill levels causes questions.  There have been quite a few that have come to this forum looking for advice because they were going out on their first "wilderness adventure" with absolutely no idea what to expect.  That can be disastorous.  Sounds like you do have some skills.  Practice the ones you have to perfect them and try to practice one new one every time you go out.  You can go on a well prepared camping trip and practice a new skill.  You will still have all of your gear in case you need it.  This will help build your confidence in your abilities without putting yourself in a true survival situation.

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## Rick

Hey, if the weather is shabby and you don't want to hit the snowfields do a week-end campout at home. Crash in your sleeping bag on a hard floor, cook over your stove, try out the food you plan to take. You'd be surprised how many things you might want to fix before you even get out there.

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## Sarge47

I'm either getting good, or psychic; how'd I know that the 1st thing Prr was going to talk about was a knife?  :EEK!:  What's the 1st thing someone does when getting into the idea of Survival?  Head for the Armory! :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 

On a more serious note, Prr, you got a whole lotta learnin' to do yet.  Read my post:  "This Just In" about Cody Lundin's remark.  The more you learn the more of an idea you'll have of just what kind of knife you want.  Also check out the Blog site for more info. :Cool:

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## trax

Yeah, just don't call the knife 'baby' that's been, you know...done to death...

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## Tony uk

Shhh if we think to much Sarge might find us, Hes Psychic   In fancey writeing  :Big Grin:

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## Lost Lebowski

As a "NEWBIE" I must apologize to Beowolf who earlier took umbrage to some of my comments regarding bladecraft. I'm impressed by some of your comments. I would suggest everyone buy the best blade they can afford. Buck makes great knives that are relatively inexpensive. Benchmade in my opinion is a better knife but you also pay more. A strong locking folder is as functional in many cases and plenty strong for bushcraft. I personally like fixed blades in the woods. In a truly unexpected survival situatiion I would fall to my knees and thank god if I have ANY knife at all...or I'd just flint knapp a crude blade i CAN GET AWAY WITH. My favorite knife (and I have a whole drawer filled with all kinds some crap some custom works of art) is the Fallkniven f1. 

Beo...I like the picture I have a beautiful custom bowie forged from an old nicholsen file ( D2?) with a whitetail handle and a 10" blade you would absolutely fall in love with. The back of the blade has a tooled spine in a pheasant feather pattern and the handle has a nise curve to it that falls into your palm perfectly. I recently moved so once I set up my computer I'll post a picture for you. Its a little too big for my purposes. I backpack a lot. It's actually a little lighter than my fallkniven but too bulky to fit under my pack's hip belt and it has a full hilt though it does not protrude anteriorly any more than the half hilt in your photo. ( the hilt has dovetailed inlays of copper and brass and is stainless.  If you are interested I'd consider selling it fairly cheap, though it was an expensive custom (think I paid $375)

Also in general hollow handle knives are poor quality but Chris reeve makes some from one solid piece of steel he machines they are boku expensive though like 3-400 bucks! My 2 cents is you cannot pack a good survival kit into the handle of a knife so make a nice little one in a stuff sack and carry a good strong knife you are skilled with.

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## JRJ

Bark River Bravo-1 
Rat Cutlery RC-4

My 2cents

-JRJ

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## Tony uk

> As a "NEWBIE" I must apologize to Beowolf who earlier took umbrage to some of my comments regarding bladecraft. I'm impressed by some of your comments. I would suggest everyone buy the best blade they can afford. Buck makes great knives that are relatively inexpensive. Benchmade in my opinion is a better knife but you also pay more. A strong locking folder is as functional in many cases and plenty strong for bushcraft. I personally like fixed blades in the woods. In a truly unexpected survival situatiion I would fall to my knees and thank god if I have ANY knife at all...or I'd just flint knapp a crude blade i CAN GET AWAY WITH. My favorite knife (and I have a whole drawer filled with all kinds some crap some custom works of art) is the Fallkniven f1. 
> 
> Beo...I like the picture I have a beautiful custom bowie forged from an old nicholsen file ( D2?) with a whitetail handle and a 10" blade you would absolutely fall in love with. The back of the blade has a tooled spine in a pheasant feather pattern and the handle has a nise curve to it that falls into your palm perfectly. I recently moved so once I set up my computer I'll post a picture for you. Its a little too big for my purposes. I backpack a lot. It's actually a little lighter than my fallkniven but too bulky to fit under my pack's hip belt and it has a full hilt though it does not protrude anteriorly any more than the half hilt in your photo. ( the hilt has dovetailed inlays of copper and brass and is stainless. If you are interested I'd consider selling it fairly cheap, though it was an expensive custom (think I paid $375)
> 
> Also in general hollow handle knives are poor quality but Chris reeve makes some from one solid piece of steel he machines they are boku expensive though like 3-400 bucks! My 2 cents is you cannot pack a good survival kit into the handle of a knife so make a nice little one in a stuff sack and carry a good strong knife you are skilled with.


The coldsteel bushman has a hollow handel i think, It is made of one piece of carbon steel (It might be stainless though) and costs alot less than that, I suggest you take a look at it.

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## MCBushbaby

> The coldsteel bushman has a hollow handel i think, It is made of one piece of carbon steel (It might be stainless though) and costs alot less than that, I suggest you take a look at it.


You are right, the bushman is made from a single sheet of metal (I don't know if it's carbon or stainless either), with the handle rolled to form a hollow.  There is certainly more room in the bushman handle than in a cheap-o rambo "survival" knife but I wouldn't store my emergency items in my knife.

I reviewed the Bushman and I certainly did not like the bowie edition.  It was just too large to accomplish anything but whacking.  It was too thin to baton effectively and couldn't pry.  It did, however, a better job at cutting off a frozen tinder fungus from a birch than my SRK, lol.  I hear there's a non-bowie edition and I think that would be a better buy.

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## Tony uk

> You are right, the bushman is made from a single sheet of metal (I don't know if it's carbon or stainless either), with the handle rolled to form a hollow. There is certainly more room in the bushman handle than in a cheap-o rambo "survival" knife but I wouldn't store my emergency items in my knife.
> 
> I reviewed the Bushman and I certainly did not like the bowie edition. It was just too large to accomplish anything but whacking. It was too thin to baton effectively and couldn't pry. It did, however, a better job at cutting off a frozen tinder fungus from a birch than my SRK, lol. I hear there's a non-bowie edition and I think that would be a better buy.


On their site there is the non-bowie one for sale, http://www.coldsteel.com/fixed-blades-bushman.html

Its high carbon steel, Looks very good  :Big Grin:

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## Rick

Does anyone have a Christy knife in their survival kit? 

http://christycompany.net/ChristyBro....20.07-web.pdf

Or the Stanley folder? 

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...Id=24752912533

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## Tony uk

Never used a stanley blade in the bush, got a few at home tho

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## awfoxden

> I have both the Vanguard and the 120/Buck General.  The General is the longer version of the 119.  I gave MY 119 to my younger son, who really likes it, BTW
> I view both the 119, 120, and Ka-Bar as good all-around "hunting knives".  But the balance on the Buck VG is great and it makes a great "Survival" knife.


i agree - this was my first hunting knife 11 years ago and i still use it frequently.  great knife - holds a great edge and does everything ive ever asked of it.  

i curently have the cold steel srk that seemed to take a few weeks of consistant stone work to get a good razor edge that i can apreciate. but once done it has worked well. and the cydex sheath has worked great to add 550 paracord wrap around it.  i also had an old multi tool sheath laying around that zip tied on to and fit great to the outside - thus storing a few comon use stand bys such as small bick lighter, small magnesium/steel fire starter, light, and smaller folding knife.

as a few have said on this thread my main survival knife has to be my kershaw scallion.  not because it is the best by anymeans but because it is always with me from the time i put my pants on in the morning until they come off at night.

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## MCBushbaby

I've been looking into the 3 7/8" and 4" Frosts Mora knives, laminated steel, over the past week.  Mors Kochanski swears by them so I figure I'd spend the $16 and try one out.  Yes you heard me right, $17 for a knife that the bush craft legend swears by.  There's a video of him somewhere pounding the knife into a tree, up the to hilt, and prying it back and forth across the trunk, eventually cutting a 10-12" tree right in half!  Likewise he's always seen doing bush craft with his Mora be it shelter construction, skinning, crafting (bows, spears, baskets), etc.  Might be something to look into if you're not ready to spend $100 on a knife yet  :Smile:

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## crashdive123

Several people on the forum have them.  Some have posted their pictures.

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## MCBushbaby

The Mora's are being a little tricky in my research, however, so I hope some members can enlighten me with their experience.  The difference between the laminated steel and the carbon steel, from what I have gathered, is the former is harder (60), more flexible, but more brittle on abrasive materials.  The latter is somewhat softer (57-58), holds an edge better, but does not bend (could be an issue with such a thin knife).  So I'm a little lost between the two choices.  I think I'll settle on the S-1, seems like the traditional, tried-and-true, knife but I don't know if I want laminated or carbon.

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## crashdive123

> First off. . .Welcome to the insanity Scott!
> 
> The Frost Mora model S1 i a great survival knife. Cost is around $18. They hold an incredible edge, are big enough to handle all you will need it fr in the wilds, yet are small enough to keep you out of trouble with the law and the anti-knife zealots (it won't scare them into oblivion)!
> 
> Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.


Mitch - here's some info from Nativedude from post #27 of this thread.

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## MCBushbaby

Thanks.  I found out I was looking at some off-brand site selling the S1 in carbon or laminated versions.  After checking the official site, I see they only come in laminated, so I'm going that route.   :Smile:

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## awfoxden

> I've been looking into the 3 7/8" and 4" Frosts Mora knives, laminated steel, over the past week.  Mors Kochanski swears by them so I figure I'd spend the $16 and try one out.  Yes you heard me right, $17 for a knife that the bush craft legend swears by.  There's a video of him somewhere pounding the knife into a tree, up the to hilt, and prying it back and forth across the trunk, eventually cutting a 10-12" tree right in half!  Likewise he's always seen doing bush craft with his Mora be it shelter construction, skinning, crafting (bows, spears, baskets), etc.  Might be something to look into if you're not ready to spend $100 on a knife yet


if your willing to part with around $300 cold steel has come out with a finn blade with the san mi III stainless steel.

if your only willing to pay $10-$20 cold steel also has an in expensinve version with stainless steel and zytel handle.  check on ebay under cold steel, i think its either under finn bear sisu and one i just looked up was 10.99 buy it now with 5.95 shipping.

so far i havn't seen anything bad come out of cold steel.  i havn't owned anything from frost but i also havn't heard much good about them either.

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## RangerXanatos

I have a couple of CS products and I haven't been too happy with them.  A machete I got from them warped out of place while I was using so that it can't be straightened.  The metal on the riflemans hawk I got seems too soft, and the hammer poll on my friend's riflemans hawk broke off while he was chopping (not hammering).  There has been a comparitiive review of a Mora and a CS Finn Bear.  The Mora out performed the Finn Bear hands down.  http://http://www.bladeforums.com/fo...mora+finn+bear

Daniel

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## MCBushbaby

$300 is ridiculous to pay for a knife, unless it's a lightsabre...

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## canid

even then, you'd better look for sales.

i've gotten every fine knife i've needed for $10-20. though admittedly i've paid more form many i didn't.

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## RangerXanatos

You say you're looking for a survival knife?  I think that this may be a flaw.  I think you should be looking for survival "knives," meaning plural.  Yes, one can survive with a single knife, but wouldn't it be much easier to have a couple?  A lot of people use a trio of blades when out and about in the woods.  A chopper for cutting down trees for shelter/fire, a smaller fixed blade for general cutting, and yet a smaller knife (fixed or folding) for fine delicate tasks.  I would like to carry a HI khukuri or a tomahawk for my chopper, a mora for general knife usage and some delicate work, and a multi-tool for whatever (blade for food prep, scissors for skinning game, saw for knocks or cutting small limbs).  With one survival knife, if it fails, you have no blade.  When it comes to survival, it's always good to have a back-up.

Daniel

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## MCBushbaby

> You say you're looking for a survival knife?  I think that this may be a flaw.  I think you should be looking for survival "knives," meaning plural.


I'm not insulting your philosophy, but I giggle a little inside when I see people carrying multiple knives on the trail.  I agree it's better to carry a chopper if you intend to chop, but then why a kukri instead of a small felling axe?  Kukri's are meant to be your general purpose knife with a chopping function.  If you are carrying a mora and multitool as well, carry an axe instead.

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## RangerXanatos

I mention a Khukuri just because I recently got one and love it.   :Big Grin:   But some people feel that they out chop hatchet and the like, I haven't gotten mine to the edge I feel sufficient with so I don't know for myself yet.  Yes, khukuris are meant to be a general purpose knife, but with them being so big, it's much easier just to carry a small, lighter knife for many of the tasks.  On the trail, such as day hikes, I really don't see the need for choppers, so no, I would even think about carrying anything that big (kuhk/t-hawk/ax) with me.  But I'm thinking about "surviving" in the wilderness.  Something that may take a couple of days or more.  Then I'd want something like that trio, whether it's a khuk or a felling ax as my chopper.  Hope to have cleared any confusion.

Daniel

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## Tactical Tom

Here are a few of my Favorites  :Big Grin: 
Ontario TAK (4" blade)
Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.
Here are some of my favorites that I choose from when I go out  :Big Grin: 
Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.

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## Lamewolf

The best survival knife I've found so far is my ESEE Laserstrike.  While its not perfect for every task, I feel that it is a good simple design made of 1095 carbon steel with good solid handles, full tang, and 1/4 inch at the spine with a full flat grind.  Again, its not perfect for every task, but I do believe I could denpend on this knife not to fail under very harsh conditions and I would turn to it in a heartbeat when the chips are down !

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## Wildthang

OMG I just found this on Amazon, and it's tactical too! Is this a gotta have it or what!

http://www.amazon.com/TAC-FORCE-POLI...es+fixed+blade

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## hunter63

What a find....need to order a dozen or so......

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## Lamewolf

I have a perfect survival knife !

The ESEE Laser strike:
LS.jpg

Is it the "perfect survival knife" ?  No, but there is no such creature in existence - use whatever you feel comfortable with and be done with it !

(And I could survive with a 12" Bowie if need be)

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## Rick

Nah. It's not expensive enough to be perfect. If it cost double then it would be close.

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## Enigma

> I have a perfect survival knife !
> 
> The ESEE Laser strike:
> LS.jpg
> 
> Is it the "perfect survival knife" ?  No, but there is no such creature in existence - use whatever you feel comfortable with and be done with it !
> 
> (And I could survive with a 12" Bowie if need be)


I got one of these off a mate, last weekend, and I am looking forward to trying it out. The fire starting kit in the handle is a nice touch. The 'feel' of how it sits in the hand is nice, but it'll be interesting how well the edge holds. I once tried a little Esee knife for skinning, as it came from the factory, and was quite dissapointed at how crap the edge held up before needing stropping , when skinning a goat. A flake of Obsidian held up way better.

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## Wildthang

If I had to choose one folding knife as the perfect survival knife, it would be the old classic Buck 110! It is big enough to quarter out a dear with ease, it is well made, locking mechanism is flawless, and it is a beautiful no frills knife.
I have one that is probably 30 years old and it works like new, holds a great edge, and feels like an old friend. 
These knives can be had for around 38$ and are better than a lot of knives costing much more.
It is probably the most copied knife in existence and for good reason!

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## SurvivalTips

I like the SOG Seal Pup and Rat 5. Realistically in a survival situation you're mostly going to be using your knife for prying rather than cutting. I want something that I can pry my way out of a downed aircraft cockpit with.

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## crashdive123

> I like the SOG Seal Pup and Rat 5. Realistically in a survival situation you're mostly going to be using your knife for prying rather than cutting. I want something that I can pry my way out of a downed aircraft cockpit with.


While I like (and own) both of the knives you listed, I really have to disagree with the rest of your statement.  Out of the myriad of survival situations that we could all be thrust into at any time - unless you are a bush pilot, prying our way out of a downed aircraft is so far down on the list of possibilities that it doesn't even deserve consideration.

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## Tokwan

However, a note to ponder..I owned many knives, folding, hunting and survival...from MORA, Benchmade, EKA, Spyderco to Ontario....however, when does one carry one? To me, ..the best would be what you have at hand at that time, and it works...if it didn't...its not worth to be on you!

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## hunter63

> I like the SOG Seal Pup and Rat 5. Realistically in a survival situation you're mostly going to be using your knife for prying rather than cutting. I want something that I can pry my way out of a downed aircraft cockpit with.


I guess it would depend what you are surviving?
Don't get into may aircraft cockpits......Most folks here spend more time in the woods and are interested in wilderness survival, not warcraft survival

Seems you have a different view....There are forums for that.

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## Rick

Why wouldn't you use an egress tool for getting out of downed aircraft? It's designed specifically for that and should be in the aircraft.

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## kyratshooter

All who have been in a downed aircraft raise your hand???

Now, everyone that has had to slice Spam, cut string, spread peanut butter, cut duct tape, open a tough plastic bag, whittle chopsticks, remove a splinter or scrape a fire steel raise you hand ???

The only real blade feature of a survival knife I insist on is that it be able to reach to bottom of the peanut butter jar!

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## hunter63

> All who have been in a downed aircraft raise your hand???..........


Been in a upside down car, hanging by the belts.........Radio knobs are backwards....and it loud.
Was thinking...this is gonna hurt with I punch the button...hope it works.......so in that case a belt cutting tool/glass breaker may have been handy.
https://www.google.com/search?q=car+...ml%3B200%3B200
Aircraft...no so much.

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## Lamewolf

> I got one of these off a mate, last weekend, and I am looking forward to trying it out. The fire starting kit in the handle is a nice touch. The 'feel' of how it sits in the hand is nice, but it'll be interesting how well the edge holds. I once tried a little Esee knife for skinning, as it came from the factory, and was quite dissapointed at how crap the edge held up before needing stropping , when skinning a goat. A flake of Obsidian held up way better.


I have both the Esee Laser Stike and the little Izula, and after a hard workout all I need to do to the edge is a minor stropping as the edges hold up really well on them.  Your factory edge probably has a burr edge and needed a stropping before ever being used.  In fact, no matter what brand of knife I'm using, the first thing I do to it when I get it out of the box is a good stropping to rid it of any burrs.  After that the edge holds really well - even on a lot of the cheaper knives !

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## finallyME

The next time I am in a small aircraft, I will make sure and take a crow bar.  They are much better at prying.

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## Lamewolf

> I agree with Sarge, Mitch ... Super Post! And I do see your "point" (pun intended), about the cumbersome nature of a Bowie style knife. Having larger hands, myself, I still like carrying my USMC Ka-Bar. It wouldn't be the "only" knife I'd have, if I had my druthers. A 4-1/2 inch full tang fixed blade sheath knife of good carbon steel would be my second. Thanks for the great post!  NorthWind


With all due respect for the Ka-bar and the USMC, I have torture tested a few knives through the years just to see what it took to make them fail.  The USMC Ka-bar did not fair very well in my test as it broke right where the stick tang starts up into the handle !  Don't take me wrong, I love the old Ka-bar and still own one.  But a $15 Mora clipper actually withstood more abuse than my old Ka-bar did.  What made the Ka-bar fail was batonning wood and then twisting the knife to force the wood apart.  The blade in the Mora just flexed a little.  Then I beat the hell out of the little Mora's handle to see if it would break off and never did.  It looked so bad when I got done I sawed the handle off just to save the blade for a rehandle project.  Again, I really love my old Ka-bar, but the are other knives out there that I would be more confident in not failing when the chips are down. I don't consider the Mora a survival knife, its more of a wood carver,but my Esee Laserstrike is built like a tank and I would trust it completely not to fail !

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## Lamewolf

> I like the SOG Seal Pup and Rat 5. Realistically in a survival situation you're mostly going to be using your knife for prying rather than cutting. I want something that I can pry my way out of a downed aircraft cockpit with.


I've been in survival situations before and the only things my knife did was to process wood for fire and shelter building to keep my butt warm which didn't require any prying.  I was just stuck in the woods when a snow squall came so bad I couldn't see to navigate out.  I had hiked in, so I didn't have to cut myself out of an aircraft.  The knife I had at the time was a simple 4 inch bladed Case sheath knife and I used it to cut pine boughs to build a wind blind under a huge pine tree so I could keep dry and then use pine needles from under the tree and some deadwood to build a small fire until the storm was over.  Cutting yourself out of a downed aircraft would be very important if you happen to still be alive and able to do so, but I don't think most of us will be in that situation.

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## -FinnSurvivor-

Personally I prefer Mora knives...Light weight,durable,keeps an edge pretty well,easy to sharpen and low cost.
My Mora HQ Robust cost 7.95 or 8.95 EUROS...thats like 15 dollars or so?
Only modification I had to do was to grind the spine a bit to get it working with my ferro rod.
It serves its purpose well enough...Someone might say it's not good for batoning,but it is...not for very thick wood but thats why theres the chainsaw and an axe  :Wink: 

I have the impression that Moras are considered as a beginners knives? 
Even though many many people use them...contruction workers,bushcract dudes etc.

Can anyone recommend a knife that has a similar quality vs. price ratio than Mora?

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## MrFixIt

> I have the impression that Moras are considered as a beginners knives? 
> Even though many many people use them...contruction workers,bushcract dudes etc.
> 
> Can anyone recommend a knife that has a similar quality vs. price ratio than Mora?


I think that Mora knives are a gateway to higher end knives, but I like and use them.

Check out "Condor Tool and Knife". Nice stuff with an inexpensive price.

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## Sarge47

> I have the impression that Moras are considered as a beginners knives? 
> Even though many many people use them...contruction workers,bushcract dudes etc.
> 
> Can anyone recommend a knife that has a similar quality vs. price ratio than Mora?


Cody Lundin uses the Mora exclusively as does Mors Kochanski; both teach survival skills.  Sometimes people want something that is sturdier than the Mora or they think it looks "cooler."  Here's the skinny on any good knife that you might like to use in a survival situation:

A good survival knife has the following:

1.) A good blade that can hold a decent edge but will sharpen easily under bad conditions.

2.) A full tang, or one that has a partial tang but works well anyway like the Mora.

3.) Fits into your budget.

Also, please note, this can also apply to a kitchen knife like a butcher knife...they make great survival knives.  It's not rocket science and the term "survival knife" is misused a lot.  A true survival knife is the knife you happen to have when disaster strikes.  If you're one of those who can afford an expensive knife and are lucky enough to have it on you at the time, well there you go.... :Cowboy:

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## -FinnSurvivor-

> I think that Mora knives are a gateway to higher end knives, but I like and use them.
> 
> Check out "Condor Tool and Knife". Nice stuff with an inexpensive price.


I'll do that...thanks for the tip  :Smile:

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## -FinnSurvivor-

> Cody Lundin uses the Mora exclusively as does Mors Kochanski; both teach survival skills.  Sometimes people want something that is sturdier than the Mora or they think it looks "cooler."  Here's the skinny on any good knife that you might like to use in a survival situation:
> 
> A good survival knife has the following:
> 
> 1.) A good blade that can hold a decent edge but will sharpen easily under bad conditions.
> 
> 2.) A full tang, or one that has a partial tang but works well anyway like the Mora.
> 
> 3.) Fits into your budget.
> ...


I wouldnt buy an expensive knife (100---->) because I dont spend THAT much time in the wilderness...so it just would be lying around without use.
And another thing is,that in Finland it is illegal to carry knives that have longer blades than 5cm.
Although chances to get caught having a knife on you are very small.

In my area I could find "a survival knife" for 15,but I must say that if I was in a survival situation...i'd rather be without it  :Smile: 
It's a ****ty little look a like of rambo style knife...

I usually carry (when in wilderness) a small kithen knife with me...the kind that is used to peel fruits etc.
It's made by Fiskars and it is very good for cleaning fish (and cooking in general)...also it gives a lot of sparks when used with my fire steel...a lot more than the scraper and the spine of my Mora combined.

Thank you for your good response  :Smile:

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## Erratus Animus

I am a maker so I can make what I like in the steel I like. That said tend to lean toward a rather large belt knife ( 9-10" blade) paired with a necker between 3. to 4" blade but if I had to chose one I would opt for the large belt knife. It fits my geographic area and goals with wilderness skills. Along with a silky saw its a prefect setup for me and allows me to quickly with fewer calories burned build a shelter, process wood for a fire and craft weapons and whittle trap triggers.

My current necker is a simple 4' scandi from A2. 26* bevels

As for my big belt knife I am replacing it with another one to try out for awhile . 1/4" CPM M4 1 3/4 to 2" at the widest 10" long. Think BladeSport comp knife. Shooting for 24oz total weight with a tad of forward balance and a dropped handle. I may change the specs a little before I cut the M4 but it will stay true to its roots. Advancements today in metallurgy offer a tremendous advantage to us in the field when geometry and heat treat is correct.

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## Rick

> its a prefect setup for me




I think you've cracked the code.  :Thumbup:

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## fjrmurph

I have the a lot of knives, i'm trying not to purchase any more. I have a Mora Bushcraft Survivial. The one with the firesteel and the stone on the sheath. If i'm in the woods that knife is with me
http://www.moraofsweden.se/adventure...survival-black
 I think it is about as good as it gets. I have knives i have paid a lot more $$$  for but i carry the Mora

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## MrFixIt

Just got this in the mail yesterday. Bought it used and the original owner had modified the handle.
I like the feel of it and after about 30 minutes with a diamond stone and strop, will shave the hair off my arm.

A Condor Bushlore
Bushlore@.jpg

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## Stever60

I have enjoyed reading this thread, viewing what other folks use in real life.  I am hard pressed to think about survival with just one knife.  If something happened random while I was at work I guess my immediate survival knife would be the knife I have on me.  Currently a bench made folder.  When I was in the Army, besides a sheath knife (gerber) I always carried a buck 500 folder in a leather belt case.  I did a lot with that little folder.  I believe it is thinner and a little shorter than some of the more reviewed buck knives.  I don't carry the buck anymore - I still have it and it but retired it.  I think I bought it in the late 70s.  I don't know that much about some of the newer knives discussed here but think I want to read up on the mora- mentioned several times in this thread.  New to me may be 20 years old.  
I just bought a machete to use on my property that I have not used enough to know if I will like or not.  It is like a heavy knife though -OKC SPEC PLUS MACHETE.  I like made in USA stuff and thought I would give it a try.

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## bob3663

My wife picked me up a T.O.P.S. Field craft b.o.b. Knife for my birthday. She gave it to me today early. This is one nice knife.  I researched tops knives and I like that everything is done by hand for the most part. And made in the USA!  

Bob


Bob

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