# Survival > Survival Kits & Survival Products >  Survival Knife reccomendations.

## Sarge47

How many times do we get people, especially young people asking the question:  "What kind of "survival" knife should I buy?"  Don't answer, the question was rhetorical. :Smile:   however, in a serious attempt to answer that question in a positive manner I want to come up with a chart that I can post to the Blog-site listing as many "Good quality" knives as we can in price ranges in $10 increments.  Here's an example of what I'm getting at:

Around $10 price range:  Frost Mora Knife:  (Rating) 5 out of 5 stars! (list url where knife can be purchased at lowest price.)

Around $20 price range:  Cold Steel Bushman II:  (rating) 5 stars! (url)

You get the idea, so here's where all you knife fans can list knives you think would be good ones for the person new to survival too have.  List knife along with price range; if you're not sure of the price range then I'll track down the lowest possible price I can find and put the knife in that range.  You can give it your personal rating if you wish, however I'm reserving the right to amend that based on input from others. Also remember that we're looking at $10 increments, however if the knife runs, say $14, then we'll keep it in the $10 arena but list actual price in parentheses follow knife listing.  

After we're done here we'll work on the Survival Kit items that everyone should have, adding that there will be other items  that will be congruent with their particular needs.  Then, when the questions come up, said "Newby" will be directed to the proper Blog. :Cool:

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## Fargus

How are you going to handle prices for knives that have a wide variance? As an example: A knife may have an MSRP of $200 but the person posting the knife and the price may have found it for $150 at Joe Bob's Online Knives & Refrigerators, someone else may have found it for $110 elsewhere, and someone else may have seen it for $90 on EBay. I have a Fallkniven S1, the MSRP is ~$200, easily found for ~$140, and I purchased mine for $98.

Not everyone is going to do their homework for pricing, nor may they be willing to track down the best deal. Posting a range of prices with a wide spread wouldn't wind up being very helpful (i.e. S1 from $200 to $98) as it doesn't nail down the price very well and crosses a ton of ranges. It isn't really all that helpful to place the lowest price found, as many will never bother to try and locate that vendor or may have a favorite vendor that they use exclusively with higher pricing.

Perhaps you could go by MSRP (if available) for sorting and then have a separate entry for actual pricing. Also, how would you handle an entry like FVR's excellent handmade non-steel blades? The materials are essentially free, but the skill and know-how to make them is hard to value. Any idiot can bang two rocks together, not very many can get a knife out of the process.

I'd like to enter the Fallkniven S1, $98.95 at KnifeSupply.com. Shipping was $7.80. $106.75 total.

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## canid

you could do what i do, and look or the item that falls within your budget, find it for 75-50% of that and use the difference to buy more fishing gear, sandpaper, epoxy, etc. and then just call it even...

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## Capt.Canuck

> I'd like to enter the Fallkniven S1, $98.95 at KnifeSupply.com. Shipping was $7.80. $106.75 total.


I'd second that - I also have the S1.

I'd and also throw the Fallkniven F1 (slightly more compact) into the mix as well, for about the same price.  The F1 is easier to use for some tasks, and the thick uniform spine makes it better suited for batoning wood.

Either knife would be a great choice.  I own both and love both.

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## Sarge47

I'll list the Falkniven F! & S1 in the $100.00 range as that's what the lowest "reported" price is.  I'm not listing specialty knives at all since this would be a resource for "Newby's", not experts, although a seperate listing for the more expert/collector might not be a bad idea.  I've seen the Buck "Special" list for as much as $70.00; yet Wal-Mart here sells it for half that ($35.00).  I'm going with what I know, if anybody has a better price then I'll amend the list. :Cool:

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## Fargus

Excellent Sarge. Will you be doing any judicious pruning of possible ridiculous entries (not that anyone here would do such a thing)? By ridiculous, I mean Rambo knives with hollow handles, useless saw backs, gut hooks, half length push tangs, laser sights, and built-in fishing rods.

As far as something like FVR's knives being specialty items, I was reading through a British bushcraft forum the other day and found a link to a site selling chert, flint, obsidian, quartz knives with what appeared to be sinew bindings. So, they are out there and a newcomer might stumble across such offerings and wonder. There are also several articles out there contending that steel knives aren't all that much of an advance over stone implements. Perhaps a disclaimer or notice about them might be in order. Just a thought.

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## Sarge47

My thinking on the subject is to "keep it simple as I'd be dealing with someone who, if they knew much about the subject at all, wouldn't be asking in the 1st place.  There will be an "intro" that will, hopefully" address all the other issues & any "Newby" can take it or leave it.  BTW, am I safe in assuming that you & Canid are giving the Falk. knives a "5 Star rating?" :Confused:   Also There may not be that many knives listed in the 1st place & I probably won't go very far past the $120 mark as a true "Survival" knife, to me, describes a knife dedicated soley for "Survival", nothing else.  It's not a "Camping" knife, "fishing" knife, "hunting" knife, or "all-around, hang-from-your-belt general-purpose knife.  It's a freakin' SURVIVAL KNIFE, and that's it!  Actually, even a good kitchen knife, or even a long, flat, piece of metal sharpened into a knife if it had to be, would make a passable "survival" knife, so the question itself is kinda dumb.  It SHOULD be posed this way:  "So what do you think makes a good quality knife for the outdoors, & can you give me some ideas?"  However, because most "Newbys don't have a clue as to what knife ownership is all about, probably have never owned one in their lives, and have viewed the Rambo films as a serious reference to their quest; then I'm hoping to offer a more positive answer than what I have in the past :EEK!:  

Quite frankly, if I'm ever in the outdoors & find myself in a true survival situation, my outdoors knife will be used to make a survival shelter, clean fish & game, etc.  I might want an extra knife or two to store in Survival kits strategically placed in certain areas, like the home & vehicle, but it shouldn't come across as any big deal. Some of my favorite blades that I use more often than anything else are certain "kitchen" knives that I've bought at various yard sales as I'm a pretty good cook! :Big Grin:  :Cool: 

Finally, I hope every Newby out there knows how to safely handle & sharpen a knife in the field as that knowledge can help them tremendously if they do, or potentially become a disaster if they don't. :Cool:

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## Beo

Sarge I got a blog on sharpening knives, if you like it post it with the knives you pick for your list or link it to my blog. Maybe it will help a newbie, a veteran, or just be decent info for someone.

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## Fargus

> BTW, am I safe in assuming that you & Canid are giving the Falk. knives a "5 Star rating?"


I would rate the S1 at 5 stars for any survival scenario. Unfortunately, there appear to be many different definitions of survival, so people have different concepts of what gear may be required. Lost hiker survival or long term zombie invasion survival? Bushcraft survival or down behind enemy lines survival? Even Bear Gryllis survival, "I was an idiot and bought a knife worth maybe $100 for $700 and now I'm living in my car because I'm broke and too embarrassed to go home and face the wife." ... perhaps the deadliest (due to a bad case of terminal idiocy) scenario of all. Angry wife > enraged grizzly. At least the bear will kill you quickly.

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## Ole WV Coot

Sarge, maybe you should add a make your own rating. Some of us do and mine cost nothing but labor. More men modify an Old Hickory or any knife at no cost. I can rate mine at the top of my list because of price, easily replaced but mostly they are exactly what I want. Just wondering and if it don't fit into what you're trying to do just delete this post or pm me and I will.

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## Fargus

It might be best to not rate them at all.




> You get the idea, so here's where all you knife fans can list knives you think would be good ones for the person new to survival too have.


If someone is going to recommend a knife that they think is a 'good one', then naturally they are all going to be 5 stars. Why recommend something that falls short in some way? A knife may be 5 stars for a $40 knife but when compared to a $75 knife, it would really only 3 stars under direct comparison. Something like, 'Most Recommended Blade(s) in Price Class' might be better than an absolute rating that is open for misinterpretation.

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## Sarge47

Okay, how about this?  It's a given that anybody who posts a brand-name knife really likes it for Survival, but is that really what it's for?  How many of you think you'd actually use your knife if you only used it in a survival situation?  I'm betting that it would be rare with this bunch! :Big Grin:   So let's just assume all knives mentioned have strong, positive, opinions behind them, Ok?  This being the reality of the situation, then what we're really talking about is a workingman's/woman's knife for any & all outdoor situations:  Cutting wood, whittling, gutting & chopping fish, fowl, & fur-bearing game.  This is not a "military situation" where we have to keep out of sight or the enemy will find us!  The key is to BE found, & quickly, if we're lost or injured, right?  Hmmm, perhaps a "chrome-steel" blade could double as a signal mirror?

Anyway, here's what I've got so far:  Frost Mora ($10)  Cold Steel Bushman II($20, as far as I know right now.)  Buck Special ($35)  Buck Vanguard (without "gut-hook", @$45)  Camulis' USAF Survival Knife (@$35) Ka-Bar Ku-kri
(Ghurka,@$40)  Kabar Fighting knives ($45 to $95, depending on model & who sells them)  Ontario's RAT 3-5-7 in various prices depending on what steel is used.(D-2 always costs more)  Ontario's R-TAK II, (@$90)  Falkniven's S1 & Fi models(@$100)

Now I'm well aware of other models that Cold Steel makes that could probably be included in this list, as well as many other knife manufacturers.  So my idea is to give a newby something to look at, but then to also inform them that there are many other knives availabl, but that this is a good place to start.  % will get you 10 that right after they look at the blog they'll go out & buy something else anyway, if they haven't already, but it's better than me snapping at them to "Read The Sticky!" :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): BTW, Beo, I think that linking to your blog is a GREAT idea! :Big Grin:

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## Capt.Canuck

> Ontario's RAT 3-5-7 in various prices depending on what steel is used.(D-2 always costs more)  Ontario's R-TAK II, (@$90)


I don't have any of the above (though I do have Ontario's Spec-Plus Machete, and love it) but I have heard excellent things about the Ontario RAT series knives.  

As an aside, there are "mall ninja" survival knives (i.e. the "all show, no go" styles like hollow handle Rambos that would break under heavy use) and then there are knives like the Ontario RAT series and Fallkniven F1 that have been specifically designed for survival applications.  Design elements like a full tang, fixed blade, thick spine, an edge on one side only, etc...making it well served for a multitude of tasks.  

There is no real consensus on these things of course, but many feel a blade between ~3.5"-5" is optimal if you're only going to have one blade.  Large enough to split wood (batoning) yet not so large as to be unwieldy when trying to perform fine tasks.

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## Fargus

I've never understood why kukris, ghurkas, and similar designs are always tossed into survival knife discussions. Where is all this chopping taking place? You need a basic lean-to, not a log cabin. You need a small basic fire, not a towering inferno of 12"+ logs that burns for weeks (a small fire can do the cutting chore on larger logs if needed). You need to be traveling light to conserve energy, not carrying a massive amount of tonnage in steel. You need to be able to efficiently dress/clean small prey and fish. I know you can field dress, clean, and skin animals with the larger blades, but it really is a pain (especially cleaning fish). If the goal is to be found as quickly as possible and not make a career out of being lost, these bigger blades just don't fit the criteria. Sorry, rant over.

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## RangerXanatos

While you do have a point there, I know that my khukuri won't break on whatever I happen to throw at it.  A 1/2" piece of leaf spring will just about take anything.  If I were going to be stranded wherever for a period of time (more than 3 days) I would definately want my khuk though it might be a psychological thing to me at that point.  But, if you know your knife's abilities and don't abuse it, then you shouldn't need a huge knife.  In fact, the BOB I'm building for my car, I'm either going to be placing a Cold Steel True Flight Thower or a Mora.  A khuk would take too much space and weigh too much to be practical IMHO.

I have a CS True Flight Thower and I'm pleased with it's capabilities.  If I remember correctly, they cost about $20.  In fact, this past weekend I gave one to a friend of mine, so they're fairly inexpensive.

Daniel

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## FVR

Cold Steel and another co. makes a very good throwing bowie called the Bowie Ax.  Both vendors sell them in the 20 to 25 dollar range.  These are good for throwing and surprisingly they hold a great edge.  When it comes to throwing knives to kill hogs, these are the pref weapons from what I hear.

Throwing in a survival situation, far fetched.  But the weight of these knives would do very well on the end of a nice hickory stick for both protection and hunting.

Honestly, for the boot, I would not rec. a flint knife as you really have to know what you are doing to sharpen it.  They are awsome for skinning especially critters with alot of fat on them (hogs), but given the choice of a rock knife or my Kabar.  Kabar hands down.  I will just wipe off that excess grease.

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## Capt.Canuck

Also relevant to the conversation, I think, is that there are two broad categories of survival situation:

1.  the "knowingly head into the unknown and survive off the land for a given or perhaps indeterminate time" survival situation; and

2.  the "wtf just happened, I now need to survive until I'm rescued or can get to help" survival situation.

In broad category #1 the typical person would be better equipped than the typical person in broad category #2. 

Though personally I might like to have say a strong machete, a good axe, and a smaller knife for a planned category 1, if it's a category 2, likely the situation has caught the individual by surprise.  As is often said, the best knife in a survival situation is the one you have with you - which is why many consider a smaller (and lighter) knife best suited for the category 2 survival situation.  In an unplanned emergency, a smaller blade far more likely to be on a person's belt, in their pack, etc...than a bigger heavier knife. 

A classic example of a precursor to category 2 survival situations is the "day hike".  Sudden storm, injury, whatever...and things have changed dramatically.  I would have to be feeling particularly masochistic that day to  pack gear for a category 1 planned survival situation when going out on a day hike, but I (and any prudent person)would pack a compact and light kit for a potential category 2 survival situation.

All that isn't to say that being overprepared is a bad thing, just as long as the heavier, bulkier, knife and kit doesn't someday compromise your safety because it was left behind just that once to save time/weight/space.

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## crashdive123

To go along the same vein as CC.  What about fixed blades and folders.  I've always got 2 or more folders on me, but only carry fixed blades when heading out into the wilds.

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## Sarge47

1st, I think everybody should carry at least one folder along with their multi-tool, which also has at least one folding blade.  Folders have their place with any outdoorsman.  Whittling a trigger for a figure 4 snare is one that comes to mind.  However, the question that's asked is usually regarding "fixed blade" knives.  I prefer Victorinox Swiss-Army brand folders because they make great "Boot-Tush" professional kitchen Knives under the name:  Forshner.(or something like that.)  I'm thinking about a "section II" part to the blog regarding folders with a caveat explaining why they shouldn't be one's 1st priority blade as to the obvious weakness in the pin that causes the knife to fold.

2nd, the 1st "survival" scenario that the Capt. describes is, in my opinion, gross stupidity for the average Newby.  True, there are those here who could do that sort of thing quite well, but I'm not going to encourage it for the young, inexperienced folks we often get here.  

So I'm looking at "Survival situation #2" as the only viable option.  As I've just posted  to this thread earlier, it's NOT a SURVIVAL knife...It's an OUTDOORS knife that you may have to rely on in a survival situation.  The question:  "What kind of SURVIVAL knife should" I buy; demonstrates to me, the Newby's inexperience in the outdoors.
That, in itself, I find alarming.  Then I strongly suspect said Newby is guilty of viewing survival as the latest "extreme sport", not what it really is...a matter of life & death. :EEK!: 

In all honesty, anybody asking about knives 1st, or even survival kits, tells me that the 1st question out of their mouths should've been:  "Where can I go to get some really good 1st-aid training."  In any real survival situation, that's got a higher probability of what will be needed, as some past incidents have clearly shown. :Cool:

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## Capt.Canuck

> 2nd, the 1st "survival" scenario that the Capt. describes is, in my opinion, gross stupidity for the average Newby.  True, there are those here who could do that sort of thing quite well, but I'm not going to encourage it for the young, inexperienced folks we often get here.  
> 
> So I'm looking at "Survival situation #2" as the only viable option.  As I've just posted  to this thread earlier, it's NOT a SURVIVAL knife...It's an OUTDOORS knife that you may have to rely on in a survival situation.


Understood and agreed - no one is advocating that an inexperienced person intentionally put themselves in harm's way and live off the land for fun.  The two categories were put out there to illustrate that, real world, a smaller knife is more likely to be there when you need it.  

Survival Scenario 2, (the involuntary/unplanned survival situation...) is the one we should address in this thread - as I think that is what is intended when the term "survival knife" is used, at least in the military context. 

Personally, my outdoors/expedition knife and kit differs from my day hike knife and kit.  My day hike gear is compact and light, the bare essentials typically.  I'd of course be much better equipped in an unplanned survival situation with  all my outdoors/expedion gear, but there is no way I'd carry all that stuff each time out out on a day hike.  So for me, my ideal  "survival knife" is something like the Fallkniven F1 with a ~4" fixed blade.  Small and light enough that I'll never leave it behind.  YMMV.

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## Fargus

> As I've just posted  to this thread earlier, it's NOT a SURVIVAL knife...It's an OUTDOORS knife that you may have to rely on in a survival situation. ... Then I strongly suspect said Newby is guilty of viewing survival as the latest "extreme sport", not what it really is...a matter of life & death.


That's how it's being 'marketed' though by the mainstream media. Movies such as Rambo and Crocodile Dundee struck a chord. Steve Irwin, R.I.P., idolized even though his approach to animal contact was insane. Reality shows, starting with Survivor and progressing through the current incarnations Survivorman and Man vs. Wild, have fired the imagination of many. In regard to the latter two, the men head out equipped with what? Knives. The new, the unknowing, and the outright delusional are being fed the idea that if grab a knife and head out, everything else will fall into place. You've got your knife, you are all set. Drink your own pee, squeeze some elephant dung (hard to find in my neck of the 'woods'), eat some bugs and you are good to go.

Look at how many news articles there were about imitators getting seriously hurt trying to duplicate or out do parts of Jackass. I would hazard a guess that many think that survival in the wild is a walk in the park compared to the tortures of Jackass. They are, of course, wrong. People will try and follow the latest romanticized trend, no matter how ill-informed they are about the actualities. People also have a tendency to gloss over or ignore blatant/obvious facts if such information stands in the way of them trying to realize their fantasy.

Look at all the knife buzzwords being bandied about**: tactical, survival, bushcraft, outdoors, camp, etc. No wonder people get confused and a few irresponsible blade manufacturers are quite happy to play along and muddy the waters further, just to boost sales. The education I feel that people should get is that a knife is a tool. Just as other tools are suited for particular jobs, knives have similar disparate functions. There are many different screwdrivers, each has its own role. Same for knives. You don't use a Phillips head when you need a flat blade, you don't grab a fillet knife when you need to hack up a few limbs. Misinformation, lack of knowledge/experience, and crass commercialism are rampant. I'm afraid your blog entry may be quite long if you are going to tackle all that.

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## crashdive123

Gotcha Sarge.  I'll do some research on my knives as to price etc. (I buy used whenever I can).

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## danmc

> Anyway, here's what I've got so far:  Frost Mora ($10)  Cold Steel Bushman II($20, as far as I know right now.)  Buck Special ($35)  Buck Vanguard (without "gut-hook", @$45)  Camulis' USAF Survival Knife (@$35) Ka-Bar Ku-kri
> (Ghurka,@$40)  Kabar Fighting knives ($45 to $95, depending on model & who sells them)  Ontario's RAT 3-5-7 in various prices depending on what steel is used.(D-2 always costs more)  Ontario's R-TAK II, (@$90)  Falkniven's S1 & Fi models(@$100)
> 
> ...
> 
> Now I'm well aware of other models that Cold Steel makes that could probably be included in this list, as well as many other knife manufacturers.



I know its another cold steel, but I'd put the cs master hunter on that list.  It is in the same price range as the Fallkniven F1 and is a similar size/style.  I use mine for general bushcraft type stuff.  It has a thick enough spine to stand up (so far) to splitting wood and isn't so big that its a pain for some more delicate work.  I was actually looking for a slightly shorter blade but this was the closest I found to what I was looking for.  The drop point is pretty easy to work with.  The only complaint I've had so far is that the edges along the back were sharp enough to be uncomfortable fairly quickly if you use your thumb to push the blade.  I ended up ever so slightly filing that to just take the edge off.

I have not used the knife for cleaning fish as I very much prefer to use a flexible filet knife however I see no reason why I couldn't if I needed to.  Almost the same thing goes for small game.  Its not the knife I reach for but it should get the job done.

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## Beo

I don't really catagorize knives into survival, outdoors, hunting and the like. I have two catogories: 1. Knives, and 2. My knives. To me a knife is a knife and can be used for whatever I want it to be used i.e. Hunting, camping, surviving, emergencies, fillet, skinning and so on. I use all my knives the same way, every knife I ever had, so there all one in the same to me with no catagories.

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## Sarge47

I really like all the feedback I'm getting from the "pack" here; that's what I want, Wolf-Pack suggestions.  When asked what I look for in a quality fixed-blade knife I always answer:  "3 things:  1.) Quality, durability, and a Rockwell Hardness factor between 54-58.  2.)  Price, nothing over $120, & it would have to be a really great knife for that amount.  3.) A full tang, although,after examining Cold-Steels "Bushman II" It's an exception to the rule.

In truth, a Frost-Mora knife meets all the above requirements & is great if you want a knife for anything outdoors, & that's why it's only the knife that Cody Lundin advises his students to carry & uses in his Survival school.   Anything else is based on how appealing we find certain knives, that's why we buy them.

Almost forgot, I'll have to add the Gerber LMF II, used by our Military as a Survival knife to the list! :Cool:

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## Beo

Sarge what bout the Applegate Fairbairn A-F 11 by Boker Knives
An everyday tool, this blade uses a fiberglass reinforced Delrin handle that is center-thickened for a confident grip. Sheathed in Kydex with a secure holding feature, this knife has a partially serrated edge for sharp cutting and possesses a lanyard hole for convenience. The comfortable handle is separated from the phenomenally sharp blade by a short, forward-bending cross-guard for finger protection. Excelling in balance, the Applegate has steel weights in the handle for a rearward effect - easy on the hand and arm during prolonged use. Beautifully bead-blasted for a dull, yet attractive glow in the 440C Solingen stainless steel.
Overall Length: 10.75 inches 
Blade Width: 1 inches 
Length: 6 inches 
Hardness: 58 Rockwell
Sells for around $100.00 to 112.00 bucks well worth it.


Colonel Rex Applegate (1914 1998), member of the American special unit "Office for Strategic Service" (O.S.S.) during WWII, author of several military hand-to-hand combat books and well-known designer of knives, made his revised design of the legendary Applegate-Fairbairn combat knife.

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## klkak

Sarge,
I carry and use a K-Bar D-2 extreme every day while guiding. I rate it a 5. I paid $180 for it.

I also carry and use a "Knives of Alaska" Hunters hatchet w/S-7 steel. I rate it a 4. I paid $60 for it.

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## sgtdraino

I have become a big fan of the SOG SEAL series knives. At the top of the list, I would nominate the SOG SEAL 2000, which can be had for around $90.

I'd also nominate the SOG Tigershark, the SEAL's big brother. It can be found for around $120.

Though I don't have one yet, I think I'd also nominate the SOG Hunter Revolver. Similar to a fixed-blade, but the "tang" is actually a saw. You rotate the blade into the handle, and then the blade becomes the tang, and the saw is deployed for use. The blade is plain edge, with a gut hook. Looks like you can get one of these for around $70.

I would also nominate the Cold Steel Trail Master in San Mai III steel, for around $250.

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## Rick

$180? $90? $120? $250?!?! We're talkin' knives here right? I mean, please, if you have that kind of money to throw around just give me a call and I'll chop the wood for you at that price! :Big Grin:

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## nell67

For filleting,I like my J.Marttiini 6" fillet knife ( also known as a Rapala ?),I have had it for about 5 years and I have never had to sharpen it,I have used it to skin rabbits as well as fillet fish,and use it in the kitchen all the time,it should have been toast when the house burned,as it was stored in the cabinet that was totally turned to ashes by the fire,but it came through with only a slight darkening of the handle and the sheath,the sheath was still wet when I found it in the mess,but no rust or pitting on the blade at all.

Found them online for $15.99 (shipping not included in that price) and on ebay a BIN price of $8.99,me? I got mine in a box of kitchen gadgets at an auction for a buck.

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## Sarge47

> $180? $90? $120? $250?!?! We're talkin' knives here right? I mean, please, if you have that kind of money to throw around just give me a call and I'll chop the wood for you at that price!


I agree, those prices might be a bit steep, especially for the YOUNG Newby's that we get here.  I think I'll even break it up into a few other categories like Low-priced ($10-$40),  Medium-priced ($41-$99), High Priced ($100 & up). :Cool:

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## Capt.Canuck

> I agree, those prices might be a bit steep, especially for the YOUNG Newby's that we get here.  I think I'll even break it up into a few other categories like Low-priced ($10-$40),  Medium-priced ($41-$99), High Priced ($100 & up).


The way I look at it, a good knife - properly cared for - can last a person decades...so I don't think $100 is expensive at all.

A good pair of running shoes costs at least that much, and lasts a year at best.  

A good dinner out with the wife is in that price range too, and lasts a few hours or less, depending on my fibre intake that day.

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## Fargus

> I don't really catagorize knives into survival, outdoors, hunting and the like. I have two catogories: 1. Knives, and 2. My knives. To me a knife is a knife and can be used for whatever I want it to be used i.e. Hunting, camping, surviving, emergencies, fillet, skinning and so on. I use all my knives the same way, every knife I ever had, so there all one in the same to me with no catagories.


I agree, but that's not the way the talking heads from the marketing departments want the general public to think. They want to sell more knives. Buzzwords and categories sell more knives. I've been through many knives that just never seemed to fit the bill. I finally found one that I consider close to perfect. By 'perfect' (I realize everyone has their own definition) I mean that if I had to grab only one knife without knowing what I'd be heading into, I would grab that knife without hesitation and know it would perform over broad spectrum of tasks that might be required.

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## Sarge47

> The way I look at it, a good knife - properly cared for - can last a person decades...so I don't think $100 is expensive at all.
> 
> A good pair of running shoes costs at least that much, and lasts a year at best.  
> 
> A good dinner out with the wife is in that price range too, and lasts a few hours or less, depending on my fibre intake that day.


Well, Capt. C., you mentioned having a wife so I feel safe in assuming you're not a young teen.  To you $100 may seem pretty low, but to a thirteen year old it may as well be $1000.  Again, we get back to my original point of having the "knife-blog" in the 1st place.  I'm 61 years old & My best knife costs around $70 with shipping & handling.  If I was as young as a lot of the Newbys coming on here I wouldn't have been able to have bought it, or wouldn't take the time to spend the $$$.  Even now I won't part with that kind of cash for a knife as I'm using every available cent I have to buy things that aren't related to Wilderness survival.  Remember, the purpose of my blog is to give "good-quality, affordable options" to the new-comer, presumably quite young.  Later on they can buy a more expensive knife if they prefer.  In my opinion, the BEST survival knife for the money is the Mora Knife that cost around ten bucks as it has withstood the rigors of many different harsh conditions.  All the others are for our own enjoyment.  That gives the newby something to look forward to.  However, if they do have the cash to buy the higher-priced models, and they're committed to doing so, then other knives will be listed that meet the person's desire. :Cool:

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## Fargus

> To you $100 may seem pretty low, but to a thirteen year old it may as well be $1000.


Heh, kids of today have more disposable income than you think. $100 is nothing to most kids. I know kids whose parents are on welfare (I suppose Public Assistance is the PC term nowadays) and still manage to have a $300+ console gaming system hooked up to their TV and/or a $200+ IPod, and/or run up $100+ cell phone texting bill a month.

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## Capt.Canuck

> Well, Capt. C., you mentioned having a wife so I feel safe in assuming you're not a young teen.  To you $100 may seem pretty low, but to a thirteen year old it may as well be $1000.  Again, we get back to my original point of having the "knife-blog" in the 1st place.  I'm 61 years old & My best knife costs around $70 with shipping & handling.  If I was as young as a lot of the Newbys coming on here I wouldn't have been able to have bought it, or wouldn't take the time to spend the $$$.  Even now I won't part with that kind of cash for a knife as I'm using every available cent I have to buy things that aren't related to Wilderness survival.  Remember, the purpose of my blog is to give "good-quality, affordable options" to the new-comer, presumably quite young.  Later on they can buy a more expensive knife if they prefer.  In my opinion, the BEST survival knife for the money is the Mora Knife that cost around ten bucks as it has withstood the rigors of many different harsh conditions.  All the others are for our own enjoyment.  That gives the newby something to look forward to.  However, if they do have the cash to buy the higher-priced models, and they're committed to doing so, then other knives will be listed that meet the person's desire.


Hi Sarge,

For the record, I just turned 36.  I do indulge my interests and I'm not shy to spend money on gear that will last - but as the wife says, I could have worse vices.  :Cool: 

I probably should have quoted Rick's post and not yours, because it was really his comments that I was responding to.




> Originally Posted by Rick  
> $180? $90? $120? $250?!?! We're talkin' knives here right? I mean, please, if you have that kind of money to throw around just give me a call and I'll chop the wood for you at that price!


I was simply making the point that if the funds are available, spending a little extra money on an item that will last many years isn't IMO an extravagance.  Particularly in the context of our consumer culture where money is spent hand over fist on items with a very short lifecycle (i.e. electronics).

Spending more doesn't always mean a commensurate increase in quality.  In fact, I'd say that in many cases it doesn't. The Mora indeed has to lead the "bang for your buck" category.  That said, if a person does his homework and takes a close look at a higher priced knife like the Fallkniven F1 or S1, I think they would be hard pressed to claim that those knives are overpriced or extravagant.  Doing research and homework is essential on any significant purchase like this though, because as many of us know a fool and his money are soon parted.  There is a lot of high priced "mall ninja" knives out there, that look great to an uninformed consumer but would fail miserably under heavy use.

But at that end of the day the notion of value, need vs. want, and real world financial considerations are all up to the individual to decide for himself.

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## Ole WV Coot

I re-read all the posts just for grins and since homemade don't count I can agree on a Mora I would suggest an $8 Old Hickory. Some of these kids get more cash than I make. Expensive isn't always best. I have a few I wouldn't take outside let alone use. My opinion for what it's worth ain't much but you can have the most expensive and best whatever but it ain't gonna save you. A knife is a tool period, and a greenhorn can ruin an expensive knife as easily as a cheap one. I have a few unfired handguns and long guns I wouldn't take into the woods. I go with reliable, proven and I don't want to cry over a scratched stock or a broken blade. I don't mean to rain on any parade, just don't like a kid to say he has $100 to spend on a knife and tell him to buy at that range. Advise low and take the $80+ left over and buy decent gear.

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## Beo

Kids and cash I agree on, but don't care what a kid carries... sorry.
I however will spend whatever I think is a good price for a knife, be it $20.00 or $200.00 so I kinda got no limit, I agree with the post Capt. Canuk said. 
That's just me. Of course I have a 16 year old son, but I give him a good knife and care less about the price of it because it will last him. If most kids really want something then they save for it if they don't have the money, same for knives as my son saved for his PS3 which cost him $400 bucks and I consider a waste but he saved for it, of course he plays it little to nothing but it is his.
And Coot that was great.

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## Rick

(begrudgingly counting out money) "Yeah, give me that big one with the hollow handle. Yeah, that one, the Combat Survival Tactical Commander Bushcraft RAT."

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## Sarge47

Old Coot yer on the money! (Pun intended :Big Grin: )

Beo; I wish my dad had been like you, but he wasn't, he was a "Hitler-loving racist" from Chicago.  Didn't care much for knives, but since Al Capone was his other hero he liked hand-guns. :EEK!: 

Capt., I agree with your evaluation of knives, but like I said, I'll break it all down into categories & let the "Newbys" decide for themselves.  

I also agree with buying quality gear the 1st time around, hence this blog.  Any of the knives listed should work great unless somebody wants one to build a Condo with. :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## Fargus

> the Combat Survival Tactical Commander Bushcraft RAT."


..... must .... resist .... grrrrr .... ARRRRGHHHHH.

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## crashdive123

> ..... must .... resist .... grrrrr .... ARRRRGHHHHH.


If that's got ya going---do not look at the pictures of the Rambo Super Deer Slayer Delux with Laser/Holo Sight/Scope/Tac Light.

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## Fargus

> the Rambo Super Deer Slayer Delux with Laser/Holo Sight/Scope/Tac Light.


No whistle? I'm very disappointed. Guess I'll have to wait for next year's model.

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## Ole WV Coot

> No whistle? I'm very disappointed. Guess I'll have to wait for next year's model.


The scope on mine fogged up and I cut my elbow. Not under warranty I would recommend open sights. :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## Capt.Canuck

> The scope on mine fogged up and I cut my elbow. Not under warranty I would recommend open sights.


You think you have trouble?  The flux capacitor on mine malfunctioned and caused a small tear in the space-time continuum.  Fortunately I carry two backups.

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## canid

yep, you tore the universe a new space-hole alright.

honestly, why don't they start combining these knives with truely usefull tools:

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## trax

> You think you have trouble?  The flux capacitor on mine malfunctioned and caused a small tear in the space-time continuum.  Fortunately I carry two backups.


Man, I just hate it when that happens!

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## Rick

Really now. What did you expect. Those things are ALWAYS happening to comic book heros. If it's too much for you then get a real job and shed the fancy duds. I can honestly say I've never had to deal with that hole space/time constipation thing.

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## Omid

walmart has a 99 cent survival knife =) good for use for miscellaneous and could come in handy... wouldn't depend my life on it though.

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## crashdive123

Do you know what you get when you buy a 99 cent knife?

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## Rick

I give up. What do you get?

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## crashdive123

Allowing for mark up, about a 30 cent knife.

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## canid

i've had several passable $1-2 bait knives. i try to keep a few around in case i misplace my good one, and one is in my pack at all times.

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## Rick

Ah, yes. The old Rapala of yesterday. Who among us didn't have one?

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## Tactical Tom

> I really like all the feedback I'm getting from the "pack" here; that's what I want, Wolf-Pack suggestions.  When asked what I look for in a quality fixed-blade knife I always answer:  "3 things:  1.) Quality, durability, and a Rockwell Hardness factor between 54-58.  2.)  Price, nothing over $120, & it would have to be a really great knife for that amount.  3.) A full tang, although,after examining Cold-Steels "Bushman II" It's an exception to the rule.
> 
> In truth, a Frost-Mora knife meets all the above requirements & is great if you want a knife for anything outdoors, & that's why it's only the knife that Cody Lundin advises his students to carry & uses in his Survival school.   Anything else is based on how appealing we find certain knives, that's why we buy them.
> 
> Almost forgot, I'll have to add the Gerber LMF II, used by our Military as a Survival knife to the list!



Hey 'Ol Bud the Mora isn't a full tang :Wink:  but still an awsome little knife for around $10. One of these & a good machete & you could do whatever needs be  :Wink: 

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## Xombie75

I'm new here and this is my second post. I have a thing for ESEE knives. Formerly people from Ontario Knives. I use the Junglas 10" x 3/16" thick spine blade as my large task knife (processing fire wood, shelter/trap making, chopping, etc...) for small tasks I have an Izula II 2.88" x .156" thick spine (cleaning game/fish other small tasks). While they are not the cheapest they are not the most expensive. The Junglas can be found for around 150 usd and the Izula II can be found around 75 usd. Both are 1095 steel 57 Rc. and work in extreme temps. I've used the Junglas to baton wood at -20 deg f. Both have lifetime warranty no questions asked other than normal wear and tear. Yes they need to be oiled they will rust I just use TUF-CLOTH and never have issues. Another great knife is the RTAK II by Ontario. I used this knife for about 4 years before the Junglas was given to me by a friend. The RTAK II can be had for about 75 usd. It's on par with the Junglas but it weighs in at 33 oz. as opposed to the Junglas which weighs in about 22 oz. Just my 2 cents.

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## postman

I always carry 3 knives with me when in the bush: Coldsteel Bushman on my belt, Mora clipper on a lanyard around my neck, and a swiss army folder in my pocket. These knives are all simple and bullet proof, not to mention easy on the wallet.

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## AR7

Me too, three: Mora Robust on my backpack, SAK New Soldier on my belt and a mini neck knife RSK mk5 around my neck, as a backup blade.

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## itsken78

Ontario Ranger Series, either the RD (Ready Deployment) or RD Bush. both are actually made from 5160, even though MOST sites list the Bush as 1095 (info direct from the founder of Ranger Knives, Justin) the diff. between them is the RD is 1/4" & the Bush version are 3/16" can find the RD6 for right at $73 with shipping & the RD6 Bush (RBS6) right at $65 with shipping.

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## Stiffy

> I have become a big fan of the SOG SEAL series knives. At the top of the list, I would nominate the SOG SEAL 2000, which can be had for around $90.
> 
> I'd also nominate the SOG Tigershark, the SEAL's big brother. It can be found for around $120.
> 
> Though I don't have one yet, I think I'd also nominate the SOG Hunter Revolver. Similar to a fixed-blade, but the "tang" is actually a saw. You rotate the blade into the handle, and then the blade becomes the tang, and the saw is deployed for use. The blade is plain edge, with a gut hook. Looks like you can get one of these for around $70.
> 
> 
> I would also nominate the Cold Steel Trail Master in San Mai III steel, for around $250.


I recently got the SOG Field PUP for about $40 and I'm very happy with it.  With that and my hatchet I'm pretty well set.

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## Wildthang

I have a fixed blade Buck Woodsman and an Old Timer folding knife that seem to always get me by. If they cant handle it I get out my hatchet!

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## hunter63

Picked up Mora HighQ Robust  at my favorite surplus store.....Rick has a better price, I think....but hey, I was there, it was calling me, .....double sheath is a kinda cool idea, haven figured out the purpose yet.

http://www.safezonellc.com/

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## dragon383

can you add to this.. what kind of steel.....(high carbon or stainless) remember this too will have an impact on a "survival knife"

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## hunter63

Thsi Mora is high carbon, better to use on a ferro rod......

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## Rick

> haven figured out the purpose yet.




Answer in search of a question. No doubt someone in marketing had a "brain storm". I'm working on hanging a second handgun off my EDC. Now THAT would be cool.

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## jfeatherjohn

Dragon,
I love stainless steel, and a SOG stainless is still a backup.
SS holds an edge longer. The downside is it takes longer to put the edge back on, and you need diamond to do it in this lifetime.
I'm using a carbon steel blade because I can clean up a carbon edge with a few swipes to each side.
In fact my primary has a ceramic sharpener built into the sheath, and it works well for the Mora, etc. 
I do need to oil carbon steel regularly, because it will rust. I carry a tiny bottle of veggie oil in the field, and oil according to use.

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## hunter63

> Answer in search of a question. No doubt someone in marketing had a "brain storm". I'm working on hanging a second handgun off my EDC. Now THAT would be cool.


So the goal is to have so much "stuff' you can't move?....LOL

Maybe if you were to carry a long and a short knife, ala the old Western Hunter duel knife sets...Like this one,


http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedi...rn-combo-knife

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## crashdive123

Something to keep in mind......it is not so much the material, but the heat treatment that allows for ease of sharpening or longevity of edge.

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## dragon383

i do have a winchester small fixed blade thats stainless, it was a gift from my girl... and its actually not a bad knife, but the handles are a bit to skinny for my liking. i have no idea what type of steel it is though... any ideas? im actually waiting for crash to generously donate one of his beautiful custom knives to the less fortunate (that would be me)  :Smile: ...lololol

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## crashdive123

It's probably 440 stainless.  Oh, and good luck with that. :Whistling:

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## dragon383

dont you find that a knife with a rockwell of 54 a bit too soft?

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## crashdive123

Personally - yes, but that does not necessarily mean it's a bad knife.  Just needs sharpening a bit more often..

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## Winter

54 rockwell c scale is a great hardness for sharpenability. 60 rcs is almost fragile for a hard use knife. I find 54-56 ideal for large hard use knives and 58 or so ideal for all around use.

Hardness is not the end all by any means; especially in a wilderness setting. You have to be able to sharpen your knife or it's just on it's way to being a flatbar.

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## itsken78

in my opinion, i would say between 56rc - 58rc for woods knife/camp knife

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