# Survival > Survival Kits & Survival Products >  Let's Design a Backpack

## Ken

I've never found the "perfect" backpack.

So let's design one for use as a BOB.  Hydration compatible - 3 liters of water - with about 3,000 cubic inches of internal storage.

*Everyone gets to add one feature.* 

I'll start by adding exterior tent loops.

Who's next?

----------


## welderguy

layer of padding for comfort on your back.

----------


## Sarge47

Only 3000 cubic inches?  Way too small for me!  Although I could use it if I was going out into the wilds with just my knife & the clothes on my back!   :Sneaky2:

----------


## ibosserman

It needs plenty of pockets for goodies. and a knife sheath.

----------


## Sarge47

> ...and a knife sheath.


a really BIG knife sheath! :Sneaky2:

----------


## rebel

A belt with d-ring and storage pouches.

----------


## Sourdough

Request 3.5 Liter liquid reservoir. (Jose Cuervo 1.75 Liter X two = 3.5 liter) request pockets for limes & salt shaker. I'll call it my day'bag. :clap:  :clap:  :clap:

----------


## Ken

I was about to hit the sack, but I saw that you were about to post a reply.  So I waited to read it, expecting to read something like what you wrote.  I'm going to bed now.  Laughing.   :clap:

----------


## Sourdough

> I was about to hit the sack, but I saw that you were about to post a reply.  So I waited to read it, expecting to read something like what you wrote.  I'm going to bed now.  Laughing.




Damn, and here I though that only the Administrator could see what I was thinking about posting.........wow, I need a gooder computer. What a wuss, it is only 8:07PM

----------


## Pal334

Quick release fasteners on the harness.

----------


## your_comforting_company

detachable foraging bags with something like alice clips. they should be tuckable into some part of the bag that will not limit the storage capacity of the rest of the bag. It should have several internal compartments to help me sort my rocks and string. I'm not a very organized person, but knowing where all your stuff is in a bad situation will expediate getting yourself to safety.

Oh and the price should be pretty low so I can actually buy one lol.

----------


## nell67

Should have a built in reflective piece to use as a signal devise,maybe with a velcro flap over to protect it from scratching?

----------


## crashdive123

Easily accessible rifle scabbard.

----------


## Pal334

> Easily accessible rifle scabbard.


I like that idea!!!!

----------


## Rick

Zipper in the bottom. External frame.

----------


## rebel

Are you going to take some of these ideas and have a custom pack made?  If so, I may be interested.

----------


## Old GI

Most of that stuff; but it has to fit my bride. .......... Yeah, she ain't here!!!!! :Sneaky2:

----------


## Ken

> Are you going to take some of these ideas and have a custom pack made? If so, I may be interested.


Reb, I once spoke with a cobbler - who also sews incredibly well and has "altered" a few items for me that had nothing to do with footwear - about doing just that. It would cost a fortune - and not a small one at that.

Now I'm thinking more in terms of modifying something "off the shelf."

----------


## SARKY

covered in MOLLE webbing so attaching anything I want to it won't be a hassle.

----------


## dscrick

Instead of just a padded back, how about a sewn in "Sleeve" type pocket so a 20x72 foam pad can be folded to 20x18 and inserted. Now you have a multitasker - back padding and insulation from the cold hard ground. A standard 3/8 inch foam pad this size weighs about 6 ounces.

----------


## finallyME

A front detachable bag to more evenly distribute the weight.

----------


## huskymill

> covered in MOLLE webbing so attaching anything I want to it won't be a hassle.


thats the first thing that i thought of too. i agree with you.

----------


## hunter63

Water proof, w/deploy-able, mini poncho on top flap, pull out and cover your pack and shoulders.
Has to be camo, just because.
(Would look better than the black garbage bag I use now, do they make camo garbage bags?)

----------


## hunter63

> Instead of just a padded back, how about a sewn in "Sleeve" type pocket so a 20x72 foam pad can be folded to 20x18 and inserted. Now you have a multitasker - back padding and insulation from the cold hard ground. A standard 3/8 inch foam pad this size weighs about 6 ounces.


Really like this one, kinda of reminds me of the fold down-able back rest and pad on my turkey vest.

----------


## lucznik

Multiple compression straps for handling varying sizes of loads. (Would that be the same as "MOLLE" webbing?)

Oh, and it would be nice if it made of a quiet material that was sturdy enough to carry heavy loads but, didn't make the pack itself weigh over 3 lbs.




Would prefer internal frame and definitely no camo.  I LOVE the idea of the removable ground pad/back padding.

----------


## Sarge47

Here's my thought, seriously.  Stout, strong sternum & waist belts/straps with kidney protection.  This should also include a nice cushion for the back & shoulders.  Oh, & don't forget holders for hard plastic Nalgene bottles.  Thank you.   :Cool2:

----------


## hunter63

I really don't think it can be done, design the "Perfect bag".
Fun trying though.

My experience is simply that you start out with some smaller, light, then keep adding stuff, then move up to a slightly bigger bag, keep filling it, more stuff to plan for, and besides, that new piece id cool, gotta have one.

So you keep doing that over and over till it gets too heavy to carry, need to lighten the load, so you kinda start over, and so it goes.
Just so we all get the idea, what does everyone figure is a "normal load"? 
Current pack is a Alice type, about 40 lbs, +/-

I don't like stuff hanging on the outside, rattles, get caught on brush, vines, and tight places, etc.
And I don't like carrying everything in one pack, pockets in pants, shirts, jackets are a good thing.

----------


## lucznik

> I really don't think it can be done, design the "Perfect bag".
> Fun trying though.
> 
> My experience is simply that you start out with some smaller, light, then keep adding stuff, then move up to a slightly bigger bag, keep filling it, more stuff to plan for, and besides, that new piece id cool, gotta have one.
> 
> So you keep doing that over and over till it gets too heavy to carry, need to lighten the load, so you kinda start over, and so it goes.
> Just so we all get the idea, what does everyone figure is a "normal load"? 
> Current pack is a Alice type, about 40 lbs, +/-
> 
> ...


I agree that the "perfect" backpack does not exist.  Too may variables that change not just for each individual but also for each potential adventure. I also agree that I don't really like stuff hanging off my pack.  I value quiet too much for that. 

I definitely relate to your buy one, fill it, then buy another analogy.  The sad part of it all is that, after spending lots of $$$ buying bunches of different bags, I have now gone back to one of my earliest and least expensive  (I bought it on clearance for under $20 about 10 years ago) backpacks.  It was made by a now-defunct company called Bridger Mountain Backpacks.  I don't even know what the model was called but, it is absolutely awesome.  It's only drawback is that it was made before hydration systems were designed so; it is not readily hydration-bladder compatible.  I'm working on a way to rectify that now. 

My "normal load" for my hunting bag complete with 4 days worth of food and about 2 liters of water is *33.68* lbs.  

If I'm not hunting and am, therefore, not needing to to plan for packing out large quanitities of meat (thus allowing me to go "ultralight") I can drop at least 3-5 lbs off of this weight.

----------


## finallyME

> Just so we all get the idea, what does everyone figure is a "normal load"? 
> Current pack is a Alice type, about 40 lbs, +/-


I would like to stay under 30 lbs.  I try and keep my big three at or below 9lbs.  The big three are sleeping bag, tent, and pack.

----------


## Ken

Just a little bump here.  C'mon, where are the rest of those ideas?   :Innocent:

----------


## rebel

??? 

Which pack are you going to use for these ideas?

----------


## Alaskan Survivalist

With this conversation going towards load bearing I thought I would mention the evolution of a fanny pack I have. I originally got it so I could strap it to my pack and then have something to go on hikes with. "Climb high, sleep low". It is huge for a fanny pack and when loaded it was awkward to carry so my first modification was to add suspenders. The rear straps were elastic and would stretch to far so I cut them off, drilled a hole and replaced with a carabineer. The leather was too bright so I used Neets foot oil to darken. I added Uncle mikes bags to the straps to increase capacity and have easy access to it, this has been a very handy improvement. I sewed attcachmet point front and rear, high on the straps. In front I use them for things like GPS and the rear ones attach with carabineers to the compression straps of my sleeping bag.

Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.

I also replaced the shiny chrome strap adjusters with plastic black one and eliminated suspender strap snap and just wraped around belt to reduce shine.

Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.

Being able to seperate it from pack has many advantages beyond just leaving some gear behind. I can also split up load if I have some one going with me. I also strap this to my pack board when hunting and leave it with meat when going back for second trip. I can also attach MOLLE pouches in four places. Very versatile and keeps weight distributed and close to body for easy carry.

----------


## hunter63

That kinda cool, how about a pic of the whole thing, and what is the funnel shaped thing?

I knida into cutting and re-doing my stuff as well, when they don't have the features I want.

----------


## Ken

> ??? 
> 
> Which pack are you going to use for these ideas?


Ain't sure, Reb.  This is an intellectual exploration.  Where else can  get better ideas for a pack?   :Smile:

----------


## Alaskan Survivalist

> That kinda cool, how about a pic of the whole thing, and what is the funnel shaped thing?
> 
> I knida into cutting and re-doing my stuff as well, when they don't have the features I want.


Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.

The funnel thing is what they call a "Bull Magnet". It's a moose call made locally. You can also throw calls, scrape trees and fill it with water and imitate a cow urinating. I use it year round because when you stick it to your ear magnifies sound and pin points direction it comes from. What binoculars do for your eyesight it does for your ears. You can only travel so quiet so what I do is try to make my sounds natural. Man is the only creature that makes a bee line through the woods, "Walk a little, look alot".

----------


## Ken

Reminds me of one of my fanny packs.  I love it.

Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.

http://www.rei.com/product/776687

----------


## hunter63

AS, now that makes sense, and I would guess that the moose call is kind of a regional thing, but I like your thinking.
Thanks.

----------


## Alaskan Survivalist

Another thing I am working on is something I saw on TV. A guy had his fishing tackle in a pouch on his chest so he stop and fish with out taking off his pack.

----------


## Rick

I did a similar thing to a butt pack of mine. The design was pretty funcky. It was too heavy when you had gear in it and it didn't have shoulder straps so I added a set of military Y suspenders. It made it a lot better.

----------


## Rick

I just thought I'd toss in that fanny packs are a God send if you're into thongs. Just sayin'......

Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.

----------


## Sourdough

Does North Face still make the "Wallaby" Pack.........?

----------


## Rick

Doesn't look like it.

----------


## hunter63

> I've never found the "perfect" backpack.
> 
> So let's design one for use as a BOB.  Hydration compatible - 3 liters of water - with about 3,000 cubic inches of internal storage.
> 
> *Everyone gets to add one feature.* 
> 
> I'll start by adding exterior tent loops.
> 
> Who's next?


Bump
Actually been looking at some available packs, 3000 cu in seem high?

Hydration compatible- built in? add on, bottle pouches? hangers?

As far as fanny packs, tried the add-on suspenders, but come to realize that if I have to add those, all I've done is made a small back pack.
Take some stuff out!

Been looking at a shoulder sling type bag.

----------


## Mountaintrekker

I have also been on the quest for the perfect pack and I think I'm finally there. I bought a Kelty Freighter frame (no bag) for $99.00 which I can load up with various dry bags on the freighter shelf. I then have a 3500cu military patrol pack with MOLLE loops all over it I sit on top of the dry bags and lash the whole mess down with the included secure flaps on the pack. This gives me great versatility with the type of load I can carry and I can haul jerry cans of fuel or water, firewood, moose quarters etc. and have a nice comfortable light pack for closer trips to camp/scouting etc. It allows me to do anything I want and it's the epitomy of modular. All the important stuff stays dry and it's really easy to improvise if something gets torn, or needs a replacement. I'm also not limited to the interior size of the bag, I can put anything that will fit on this rig. 
 Just something I have been messing around with the last couple of months. The true test will be this season, it's going out with me on practically every trip. Oh, it also has a blaze orange pull out to put up over animal quarters for safety and or signaling etc. I think this is it for me!

----------


## hoosierarcher

A truly waterproof rainfly that is big enough to cover the pack and everything attached to it. I'd like the added weather security even if the pack was waterproof. It could also be used to make a sunshade or makeshift umbrella.

----------


## Rick

Here you go, Ken. Just what you asked for. 

http://www.eberlestock.com/Gunslinger%20M%20Series.htm

----------


## Ken

> Here you go, Ken. Just what you asked for. 
> 
> http://www.eberlestock.com/Gunslinger%20M%20Series.htm


 
Thanks, Rick, and thanks, guys!  I had this thread marked for a revisit this coming Saturday.  Keep the ideas coming!

----------


## Nath1985

a good ajustable chest and padded weist harness/ strap.  

and more pockets..
lol

----------


## Sarge47

...last year, at the Cornerstone Fest, my son & I were talking about a certain type of backpack!  One idea was a completely water-proof Back-pack.  

If I were designing one it would have to be something like "one size fits all."  Starting out with the fabric, it should be, IMO, a heavy-duty fabric with a Gore-Tex outer layer to keep the contents dry.  

It should also have both an external & internal frame so it can be adjusted for on or off trail.  

Very sturdy waist, sternum, & shoulder straps that are made wide enough as well as strong enough should also be a consideration.

As far as size goes, you have "Day-packs," "medium-load packs," & "full-size packs" like the big job that I sent to OG.  IMO, you have to be able to change the dimensions of the pack without adding "MOLLE-type" pouches, as they could throw off the balance of the pack.  Strong zippers are a consideration, but in the field  they can break.  

Also, some people like a deep-bag type pack; while others like compartments on their pack.  I see the best of both worlds, with a deep bag that has pouches sewn to the outside.  

I also like the idea of the pouches having labels impregnated into the material, like a "red-cross" to designate the 1st aid compartment, for example.  The same type of thing for your cooking kit, water filter, etc..

The outside of the pack straps the waist belt, and the top section of the pack itself should have a sheath for your knife, a compass compartment, a flashlight or head-lamp compartment, and a place for a water bottle that keeps it secure so that it's not banging around.  

I left off the hydration bladder as those things add a lot of weight to the pack when they're full; not everybody could handle that.  Just my "buck-two-fifty!"   :Cool2:

----------


## Sourdough

> I have also been on the quest for the perfect pack and I think I'm finally there. I bought a Kelty Freighter frame (no bag) for $99.00 which I can load up with various dry bags on the freighter shelf. I then have a 3500cu military patrol pack with MOLLE loops all over it I sit on top of the dry bags and lash the whole mess down with the included secure flaps on the pack. This gives me great versatility with the type of load I can carry and I can haul jerry cans of fuel or water, firewood, moose quarters etc. and have a nice comfortable light pack for closer trips to camp/scouting etc. It allows me to do anything I want and it's the epitomy of modular. All the important stuff stays dry and it's really easy to improvise if something gets torn, or needs a replacement. I'm also not limited to the interior size of the bag, I can put anything that will fit on this rig. 
>  Just something I have been messing around with the last couple of months. The true test will be this season, it's going out with me on practically every trip. Oh, it also has a blaze orange pull out to put up over animal quarters for safety and or signaling etc. I think this is it for me!



Smart move, My kelty Tioga has 40 years of hard labor, the frame is still rock solid, The bag like me is showing wear, not worn-out, but getting there.

----------


## samfranklin

sorry to be a pain what is BOB ?!

but my addition is removable packs on the side to take as day packs on a belt type system 
 :Smile:

----------


## your_comforting_company

Sam, BOB stands for "Bug Out Bag". It's the kit you'll grab as you head out the door if something really bad happens and you have to leave your home.

----------


## samfranklin

cheers your_comforting_company  :Smile:

----------


## justin_baker

It should have a main compartment, and then a front compartment that you can zip off. You can then attach a strap to the zipped off front compartment and use it as a shoulder/day pack.
Oh, and it MUST have straps on the bottom to hold your pad/sleeping bag.

----------


## samfranklin

> It should have a main compartment, and then a front compartment that you can zip off. You can then attach a strap to the zipped off front compartment and use it as a shoulder/day pack.
> Oh, and it MUST have straps on the bottom to hold your pad/sleeping bag.


Nice ideas - something that I always need now thinking about it :L

----------


## your_comforting_company

Are we gonna get someone to actually put one of these together for someone to try? Is the list of features getting updated? I'd like to see how large and complex this bag is at this point.

----------


## finallyME

> Are we gonna get someone to actually put one of these together for someone to try? Is the list of features getting updated? I'd like to see how large and complex this bag is at this point.


That would be one crazy complicated pack.

----------


## Sarge47

> That would be one crazy complicated pack.


Hows this one for the size? 

Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum. 				 				 					 						 							 								

With Apologies to Rick!   :Sneaky2:

----------


## Ken

I'm fine-tuning my concept of the "perfect design."  :Innocent:  Here are just a few of several preliminary thoughts I have........

● The required capacity (volume) of the main pack compartment should be adjustable to accomodate seasonal gear and clothing.

● Gear and supplies should be separated by category into different pockets or modules. (i.e., "Fire and Cooking", "First Aid", "Tools", "Water Purification" etc.)

● Certain items, ones you frequently use or may need immediately, should have "fast access," such as your knife, map, compass, GPS, and water tube. First aid supplies should be easier to reach than your cooking equipment.

● Handguns should be carried holstered outside of the pack. Rifles/shotguns may be carried in an attached scabbard. 

● A redundant survival kit should be worn/carried separate from the pack itself. This kit should cover the 10 essentials, even if in smaller versions (i.e., a water straw instead of a larger filter/purifier.)

● Your survival kit may be in a small front-carried fanny pack or in pockets in a vest. The more thought I give to this subject, the more I'm inclined to go with a seasonal-weight vest rather than any other option.


● Most gear is better stored inside the pack than strapped to the outside. Cinch-strapped expandable tent and sleeping bag/pad pockets come to mind here. No sense in having such items (and others) hanging off the pack all over the place. ALICE or MOLLE attachments should be kept to a minimum.

● Certain specialized or emergency gear (avalanche shovel and probes, trekking poles, etc.) should be cinched to the outside of the pack.

● A built-in water-proof rain cover in a zippered pocket is an excellent feature.

● Small front strap pockets would also be a good feature for carrying smaller items such as your primary compass, map, lighter, flashlight, whistle, sunglasses, etc. 

● A crazy thought maybe, but I'm actually wondering if the main pocket of the pack should be fully collapsible and reserved for items of clothing. All gear could be carried in other pockets, while the main compartment could grow from completely compressed to a size sufficient to hold clothing, spare boots, or whatever you may need to carry depending on season and possible weather conditions. Extra clothing (particularly when climbing) could easily take up more room than any other tpe of gear.

...........still need to give this a lot more thought.  :Innocent:

----------


## Alaskan Survivalist

Very good post Ken. Almost total agreement. I have incorporated everything mentioned in both my camping and survival gear. Extra room in pack is one thing I do also that works great! Most people I've seen don't do that. The only thing I do slightly different is in making up kits that attach. I don't use ALICE, it's just to heavy but I love the MOLLE stuff especially for heavier items like ammo and tools. The versatility of my system would take a lot of pictures and description to convey its capability but if you'd like I show you what you discribe looks like.

----------


## Ken

> The versatility of my system would take a lot of pictures and description to convey its capability but if you'd like I show you what you discribe looks like.


I'm here to learn!   :Smile:

----------


## Old GI

> Most of that stuff; but it has to fit my bride. .......... Yeah, she ain't here!!!!!


OUCH!!! She's baaaaccckkkk! :Smash:

----------


## Alaskan Survivalist

> I'm here to learn!


I've mentioned before I value thinking over knowledge and you Sir have thought this through. It took me a lot of trail and error to come to the same conclusions. I'm impressed! I'll get started, you will probably "think" of things I have not tried yet.

----------


## Ken

Another thought I've had is frame pack vs. frameless and internal frame vs. external frame.

I've always been partial to internal frame packs, but..............thinking "out of the box,"  what about a *combination* internal and external frame?  Unsnap a cover flap, and the frame "telescopes" out (up or down) to accomodate more modules or gear.   :Innocent:

----------


## Alaskan Survivalist

> Another thought I've had is frame pack vs. frameless and internal frame vs. external frame.
> 
> I've always been partial to internal frame packs, but..............thinking "out of the box,"  what about a *combination* internal and external frame?  Unsnap a cover flap, and the frame "telescopes" out (up or down) to accomodate more modules or gear.


Damn, it's like you know everything I have done! I'll show you that too.

----------


## roar-k

Make sure the rain fly is stored on the bottom.  I would also make it with detachable so you clean it or use it for other reasons.  Heck, if it was truly 100% waterproof and you could turn it into a makeshift sink or anything else.

*NOTE* I have not read the entire thread, but I did see you mentioned a rainfly and just wanted to give a little input.

----------


## roar-k

Oh, and have a top lid with straps.  That way you can put stuff in between the lid and pack and then cinch the straps down tight and hold your gear.  This will help in case you need to overload you pack.

Also, make the top lid detachable so you can wear it as a waist and/or shoulder pack if you needed to ditch your bag.

----------


## rebel

An inflatable flotation device.  Like the fishing life vests.

----------


## Sarge47

> Another thought I've had is frame pack vs. frameless and internal frame vs. external frame.
> 
> I've always been partial to internal frame packs, but..............thinking "out of the box,"  what about a *combination* internal and external frame?  Unsnap a cover flap, and the frame "telescopes" out (up or down) to accomodate more modules or gear.


You're either a mind-reader or you read Post #49:




> ...last year, at the Cornerstone Fest, my son  & I were talking about a certain type of backpack!  One idea was a  completely water-proof Back-pack.  
> 
> If I were designing one it would have to be something like "one size  fits all."  Starting out with the fabric, it should be, IMO, a  heavy-duty fabric with a Gore-Tex outer layer to keep the contents dry.   
> 
> It should also have both an external & internal frame so it can be  adjusted for on or off trail.  
> 
> Very sturdy waist, sternum, & shoulder straps that are made wide  enough as well as strong enough should also be a consideration.
> 
> As far as size goes, you have "Day-packs," "medium-load packs," &  "full-size packs" like the big job that I sent to OG.  IMO, you have to  be able to change the dimensions of the pack without adding "MOLLE-type"  pouches, as they could throw off the balance of the pack.  Strong  zippers are a consideration, but in the field  they can break.  
> ...

----------


## justin_baker

> Another thought I've had is frame pack vs. frameless and internal frame vs. external frame.
> 
> I've always been partial to internal frame packs, but..............thinking "out of the box,"  what about a *combination* internal and external frame?  Unsnap a cover flap, and the frame "telescopes" out (up or down) to accomodate more modules or gear.


That would be EXTREMELY heavy. If it telescoped down to a day pack, you would still be carrying the extra few pounds of a week pack.

----------


## Alaskan Survivalist

Ken, this is turning out to be harder to write up than I thought. My first effort was way too long and didn't even make sense to me when I read it. My writing skills just aren't up to the task. Sorry.

----------


## Ken

> You're either a mind-reader or you read Post #49:


Missed that one Sarge.  Sorry.  

Good think I just took you off my "Ignore List," huh?   :Innocent:

----------


## Lucas_SurvivalCache

I've got a spec to add. It's small but since we're going for perfect here:

The insides of all of the pockets need to be high contrast so that everything is easily spotted and grabbed.

This picture illustrates what I mean: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wmode/4...7622778861126/

Doesn't have to be lime green, haha, but you get the point.

----------


## Ken

I've sketched out a design using "paint" but can't get the size small enough to attach it here. So I'll begin with a crude description of my basic design concept.

The back (front) of the pack itself would consist of rows of deep zippered "soft box" pockets of various sizes, from 1 to 4 in a row. These pockets would be designed to hold most of the "hardware" we carry, from light stoves and tools to water filters, food, and first aid kits. Everything would have quick access. Each side of this section would have a long gear pocket, a rifle scabbard on one side and a universal deep pocket on the other side for items such as trekking poles, etc. An "expandable" pocket above would fit a small tent in a stuff sack. 

In front of that section would be a large expandable center pocket, primarily for extra clothing. This pocket could zip closed or cinch tightly if not used. 

And in front of that, closest to the body, would be two pockets - hydration bladder on top (top zipper) and sleeping bag pocket below (side zipper). A sleeve would accomodate a multi-use foam pad between the hydration section and the users back for additional cushioning.

Additional "lash points" could be affixed on the sides of the pack. The front straps and waist belt would have several pockets for small items.

A small pocket fitted above and between the hydration pocket and the clothes pocket would hold a waterproof cover that could be deployed as necessary. 

More specifics to come. 

Please - suggestions and positive and negative comments are welcome!

----------


## finallyME

> Please ........ negative comments are welcome!


Are you sure negative comments are welcome?

----------


## hitec4you

I know this is an old thread. But I liked it and wanted to put in my 2 cents.

My idea of a perfect back pack.
•	Have a removable day pack with shoulder straps and maybe a belt.
•	Be covered with M.O.L.L.E.
•	Have a waist belt with M.O.L.L.E.
•	Be able to hold a 3L hydration bladder.
•	Outside of pack be made of Gore-Tex.
•	Have a sleeping bag compartment.
•	Have top and front loading access.
•	Quick release buckles.
•	Camouflage rains cover that stores in a zippered pocket on the bottom of the pack.
•	Has M.O.L.L.E on the shoulder straps to attach pouches or scabbard.
•	Be an internal frame.
•	Have a thick padded belt and wide shoulder straps.
•	Be in the neighborhood of 70L+ pack.

----------

