# Self Sufficiency/Living off the Land or Off the Grid > Making Stuff >  Oil Cloth recipe

## kyratshooter

Sparky asked about making oil cloth so here goes.  There are lots of recipes available but most of them do not work well.  This recipe works and is quick.

First you need to prep your cloth.  100% cotton works best.  You can get canvas at Walmart, or by a canvas painters tarp at the Paint store or Harbor freight.  Do not use the cheap 8oz canvas tarps,  their weave is too open and they never close up.  The best way to prep it is wash it in hot water and dry it on hot setting.  This shrinks the fabric and closes the weave. 

Next you need to mix some simple chemicals.  You will need one quart of mineral spirits (You are not wanting mineral oil.  Mineral oil will not work), which is available as paint thinner at Lowes, Home Depot or any paint store.  You will also need a quart of boiled linseed oil.  It is available at the same place.  If you go to Sherin Williams or Porter paints you can get tarp and chemicals at the same stop.

Mix the mineral spirits and linseed oil 50/50.  Shake it up good.  You need the combination of chemicals.  The linseed oil waterproofs the fabric and the mineral spirits allow the oil to dry.  If you use straight linseed oil the fabric will never dry and will remain oily and sticky forever.  (At this point you can also add pigmint if you want color in the tarp.)

Hang your prepared tarp from a clothesline or the back yard fince and paint it with the solution.  Make sure it is saturated well.  Leave the tarp hanging untill it dries.  With the 50/50 mixture it will take about 48 hours.  It will take the smell about a week to disperse.  

Some will tell you to use Thompsons waterseal, but it is no longer rated for fabric.  It also gives the canvas an odd color.  It will also break down the fabric quickly.  So will turpintine, which some also recommend.  The fabric will not last any time.

My method is not only the traditional method, it is also cheap.  It costs only a fraction of the cost of Camp Dry, Scotch Guard or comercial waterproofer.

I have a couple of the linseed/mineral spirit tarps that I have been using for 15 years.  The waterproofing never wears out and it does not rot the canvas.  

I have also used this recipe to waterproof kanpsacks and possible bags.  It is nice to know your possible bag will double as a water bucket if necessary.


CAUTION!!!!

The tarp must be left outside and hanging until the oils have dispersed well.  Do not try to fold the wet tarp and store it.  Linseed oil can cause spontanious combustion if the fabric in folded or wadded up and stored before it dries.

Neither do you want to get this tarp or any items treated with linseed oil near the fire.

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## TresMon

Awesome! Thanks!

(I think I put together this is for waterproofing heavy fabric?)

-TresMon    <————————local idiot

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## Sparky93

Thanks! What color does it turn the white cotton cloth, and would it affect the process if you walnut dyed the cloth before you waterproofed it?

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## TresMon

I'm looking to pick me up a used wall tent. If I get one likely I will (literally) live in it 85% of my time. I have been studying them- lots of folk mentioned waterproofing it with Thomson's Water seal.  My first thought was HECK no- I don't want to inhale hard core chemicals all night long!

Is your recipe respiratory system friendly in the short term and health friendly in the long?

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## kyratshooter

> Thanks! What color does it turn the white cotton cloth, and would it affect the process if you walnut dyed the cloth before you waterproofed it?


The natural color is a slightly yellow tint, but much depends on the fabric.  

I often walnut dye my fabric before I treat it with the oil.  

Remember that when you walnut dye you need a mordant in the solution.  A pound of salt in a 30 gallon container works as will dropping a handfull of rusty nails into the solution.  Walnut dye is weak and washes out quickly if you do not have a mordant.  I have a stellite container of walnut solution under the back porch.  It has lived there for years.  I just throw whatever I need dyed in there and forget about it for a few days.  Each item takes its own shade and you never know what you are going to get.

The traditional color for oiled tarps was yellow or a rust red.  This came from yellow ochre or iron oxide, which were the cheapist pigments of that time.

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## kyratshooter

> I'm looking to pick me up a used wall tent. If I get one likely I will (literally) live in it 85% of my time. I have been studying them- lots of folk mentioned waterproofing it with Thomson's Water seal.  My first thought was HECK no- I don't want to inhale hard core chemicals all night long!
> 
> Is your recipe respiratory system friendly in the short term and health friendly in the long?


You want to set the tarp or tent up and let it air.  After a couple of weeks you do not have any smell.  I often treat a tarp and let it hang in a protected area for up to a month, but I have treated tarps one weekend and used them the next.

There is really nothing in mineral spirits or linseed oil that can hurt you under normal circumstances.  I would not want to shelter a pregnant woman in a freshly treated shelter though.  Linseed oil and whatever pigment was around was the base for most paint until the latex stuff arrived.

If you need a good wall tent they are available from a multitude of places and you do not have to treat them for use.  They come already waterproof.  

Here's you another link with all kinds of goodies dating to the Civil War.  Tents, clothes, rucksacks and all.

http://www.blockaderunner.com/Catalog/catalog.htm

I own a 12x14 wall tent and a couple of large wedge tents.  They are nice for long term shelter but bathrooms are nice to have too.

I am not the only one here that is into this.  Hunter 63 and a couple of others have as much stuff as I do.  I've seen the pics.

It may be hard to believe, but I have a real live Masters Degree in this stuff!  MA in Public History with emphisis on historic reenactment of the 18th Century.  I wrote my thesis on making this gear and how to use it.

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## hunter63

And a right fine job of it I might add......

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## Aurelius95

Great post, KY.  Thanks for sharing.  I find it very interesting.

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## oldtrap59

Thankyou KY for the recipe. Never tried to make oil cloth but this sounds pretty simple. I've used walnut husks for dye in the past but have most times found that old tea bags work somewhat better.

Oldtrap

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## TresMon

> I own a 12x14 wall tent and a couple of large wedge tents.  They are nice for long term shelter but bathrooms are nice to have too.
> 
> I am not the only one here that is into this.  Hunter 63 and a couple of others have as much stuff as I do.  I've seen the pics.


Cool. Thanks for the info. Your a gem of a find. Where do you recommend  guy find a used wall tent with a stove jack? I have never heard of nor know what a wedge tent is.

FYI: http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubb...72#Post3002672


The place I have in mind to make a permanent camp on is a teeny 2 acre privately owned parcel within the Cherokee National forest. An old couple I know lived there from the early seventies up until just a few years ago. They both were having medical conditions at random and decided they needed to move into an apartment in the closest city so they would be closer to Emergency medical care. They have offered for me to stay on the property at no cost just to keep an eye on it. A dream of an offer!! Bear, deer, critters in the mountains- right on a trout stream- a dream of an offer! - Need a nice wall tent!!!!

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## kyratshooter

> Cool. Thanks for the info. Your a gem of a find. Where do you recommend  guy find a used wall tent with a stove jack? I have never heard of nor know what a wedge tent is.
> 
> FYI: http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubb...72#Post3002672


here is a list of all your tent types.
http://www.blockaderunner.com/Catalog/catpg31.htm

They are labeled so you can scroll down and find wedges on the list.

Used wall tents are easiest to find at the big regional rondyvouis.  Many people put tents they no longer want up for sale when they upsize or downsize.  My big tent I bought at a battle reenactment from a guy that was wanting a smaller tent.  I paid about half the new price.  I have also traded several tents in the same manner, big for little, little for big.

Your closest events are going to be over at Fort Loudoun, At the John Sevier home in marble springs
http://www.marblesprings.net/Welcome.html

or at one of the events around Elizebethtown, Johnson City (Sycamore Shoals or Piney Flats) or in the Yadkin Valley.

One of the best in east TN/VA is at Martain's Station, a Va state historic site on Hwy 58 just outside of Cumberland Gap. 

http://www.graphicenterprises.net/ht...s_station.html

You really need to check out the slide shows on that last link!

Also the list of events at the bottom of the page.

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## COWBOYSURVIVAL

Thanks for this Kyratshooter, I plan to try some of your solutions on a few projects.

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## Rick

Excellent stuff. You posted some great resources.

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## hunter63

I just sold my big 12X13' wall tent with all the bells and whistles last summer at rendezvous........
Still got two 10 X10' wall tents, (not for sale) little less to haul around.

Looking to add a diamond fly or maybe use the 10 X 10 awning,,, for a single lodge.

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## TresMon

Wow,
Now that is some kindness shown to a stranger! With the best manners I was ever taughted, sincere and deep thanks for sure!

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## hunter63

Just a note on the Harbor Freight drop cloths.......lately seem to be a real loose weave, kinda close to burlap but white....( I use them for a back seat cover for the dogs on long trips)....but have use the older one as drop cloths in the past.

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## TresMon

is it possible to color an oil cloth?  

My desire for a OD green wall tent (military) really cuts down on the tents I can find used.  I kinda like to blend in overall, especially in the woods, not to mention my favorite colors really are OD & deep Brown.

And especially since I will likely be living in the thing- (and it will have no door locks, security system etc) I don't want my place to stick out like sore thumb. On top of that It will be in a secluded place. If the thieves show up when I'm away the could whistle dixie while eat'n crackers as they nonchalantly loaded up my every possession...

Thanks for the info!

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## hunter63

Not real sure where you are but this guy in DeSoto Wi has a big pile of Mil tents, and other stuff........Lots of stuff not listed on his site, so you need to cal....

http://www.jrmilitarysurplus.com/Used%20Gear.htm

Had a big crate of shelter halves sitting out side the door, a couple of buck apiece......which means they are kinda stinky...LOL, was kinda racking my brain..."what can i use these for, really good deal....hummmmm"

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## Rick

> Mix the mineral spirits and linseed oil 50/50.  Shake it up good.  You  need the combination of chemicals.  The linseed oil waterproofs the  fabric and the mineral spirits allow the oil to dry.  If you use  straight linseed oil the fabric will never dry and will remain oily and  sticky forever.  (*At this point you can also add pigmint if you want  color in the tarp*.)


It looks like you can.

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## kyratshooter

I just heard a distant echo saying "we don't need to read no stinking instructions!"

Believe me, with this process you need to read the instructions and make no substitutions if you want your oilcloth to come out right.

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## kyratshooter

> is it possible to color an oil cloth?  
> 
> My desire for a OD green wall tent (military) really cuts down on the tents I can find used.  I kinda like to blend in overall, especially in the woods, not to mention my favorite colors really are OD & deep Brown.
> 
> And especially since I will likely be living in the thing- (and it will have no door locks, security system etc) I don't want my place to stick out like sore thumb. On top of that It will be in a secluded place. If the thieves show up when I'm away the could whistle dixie while eat'n crackers as they nonchalantly loaded up my every possession...
> 
> Thanks for the info!


This has got to be the best deal in a live-in-the-woods tent that was ever offered.  I ain't canvas but it ain't bad.
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/c....aspx?a=884278


When you live in a tent theft is one of the risks you run.  Why do you thing the homeless carry everything they own in those shopping carts?

It was even a hastle for the longhunters of old.  They often returned to their base camps and found all their furs and gear had been stolen or ambush was awaiting them.   Simon Kenton was run off a camp naked once in mid winter.  After that he began caching gear all over the Ky forest.  The Bledsoe brothers hunting out of Gallatin, TN had 2600 deerhides stolen at one time.  

Where in the world are you going to live long term in TN/NC without the Park Service, Forest Service or local sheriff running you out?  Almost every square inch of those areas is privately owned or restricted government land.

Even here in KY our national forests limit stays to 14 days.

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## randyt

here's a place in ashville, If you're close enough it might pay to stop by and check it out.

http://www.armytents.com/

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## TresMon

Thanks for the info and links and such everyone.
KyRat I got a sweet offer dumped in my lap. An old couple has a small private parcel they were grandfathered into. It's within the Cherokee national forest, (in TN) right at the line near Hot Springs, NC and the Appalachian Trail.

The lived there in the house on the little 1.5 acre's the guvment left them when they formed the park around the previous home owners. THe couple I know lived there since the early 70's.  Now they are elderly and afraid to be so far away from EMS  (45 minute drive, no place for a Helo to land.)  they moved into an apartment into town.  They told me I could make a permanent camp on their property for nothing- that they just would like to have someone on the place. It's within a natl. forest on a Trout stream!  Lucky me!

No cell service or 'net though.

Best deal I got so far is $300 for a used GP small. Look like:
http://www.rddusa.com/General-Purpos...y-Surplus.aspx

I had considered a teepee like you linked but don;t want to spend my indoor times hunched over or crawling around...

Thanks again everyone I will follow up the links....

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## Seniorman

> TRES MON - " ... THe couple I know lived there since the early 70's. Now they are elderly and afraid to be so far away from EMS (45 minute drive, no place for a Helo to land.) they moved into an apartment into town. They told me I could make a permanent camp on their property for nothing- that they just would like to have someone on the place. "


If the owners are no longer going to use the parcel, is it possible you could buy it from them??  That would certanly be more "permanent" than just throwing down a tent and goods because of an oral promise.  You'd be secure in always having your own land and place to camp in a Nat'l. Forest.

S.M.

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## crashdive123

Also - since they were grandfathered in....the land may revert back to the park when they no longer use it.  Before you spend your $$$ and time you may want to find out if they have the authority to "sub let" or gift the land to you.

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## Rick

I was thinking the same thing. If it's grandfathered they may not be able to sell it to anyone but the national forest.

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## TresMon

Great points fellas thanks.  
In the short term, If I get to live on it and live my skills daily for even for just a year- COOL! 3 years- AWESOME!  Who knows if at some point I will have "my fill" of living isolated, off primitive skills in a national forest.

 Long term- I'd love to have it, and they have no children...
I could never afford to buy it, at least in this economy.  Im met this old couple through my best friend David.  David and his wife lived with them in his young days when he was down on their luck they really helped him. Now David and his wife sticks really close by them now that they are elderly and have extra needs. They way it all should be.

  Common sense would be for David, my best friend to inherit the place (if it is legal per the forest service and all the guvment stuff...)

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## biggtimm

i didnt find this till after i had done mine. i got a 9 x 12,  10 oz painters tarp from the home depot and a gallon of boiled linseed oil. i stuffed the tarp into a 5 gal bucket, pored the linseed oil on top,let it set for about 12 hours( it soaked up the whole gallon of oil).it started getting hot so i streched it out on a frame, and clamped it down. now it wasnt on the frame for over 3 hours when it rained on it. so i hope everything will turn out ok but if it dont i will do it this way next time

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## lucznik

> Neither do you want to get this tarp or any items treated with linseed oil near the fire.


Just as a point clarification; does one need to continue following this bit of advice even after the tarp has completely dried?

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## kyratshooter

> Just as a point clarification; does one need to continue following this bit of advice even after the tarp has completely dried?


Correct!  It is not just due to the linseed oil/mineral-spirit treatment.  You are dealing with cotton cloth.  It is not fireproof and the linseed oil adds to the flamibility.  

However,  the only time I have seen anyone have a problem with this, during 25 years of camping around this treated gear, was one drunk guy that allowed his treated awning corner to flop into the campfire.  

The word !!!!POOOOOOOF!!!! comes to mind.

He walked through the wall of fire, slapped the smoldering embers out of his beard, borrowed a blanket from someone and finished sleeping the night out.

I have never seen one ignite other than that even with campfires poping and embers floating everywhere.  

Nylon melts, cotton burns.  Modern or ancient none of it is fireproof.

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## jjodrey

Hello,

Thanks so much for this great post. Approximately how long does it take for the fabric to dry? You wrote 48 hours in the original post, but then also mentioned a couple of weeks and a month in another.

Is it correct then, that the fabric should be "dry enough" within 48 hours, but best if left longer to cure?

Does it matter if it's left in direct sunlight?

Thanks much,
Jill

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## crashdive123

Hey Jill - the drying process takes from a few hours to a couple of days - direct sunlight is fine.  The longer times are to remove the odor from the material that was caused by the oil and mineral spirits.

Welcome to the forum.

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## jjodrey

Thanks much!

If you want a glossier and perhaps a thicker finish, is it possible/advisable to do a second coat?

Cheers,
Jill

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## crashdive123

Can't help you with that one Jill.

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## gryffynklm

Jill, The recipe is intended for use as a water proofing for canvas used as a tent or other water resistant need like for a haversack. The intention is to keep the canvas as lightweight as possible because you will be carrying the tent or item while you travel sometimes on foot. You are asking the question of drying and a second coat to make it more glossy from a specific need. Perhaps you are looking to make a floor cloth? That is a different process and different intent. What is your end goal or product. If it is a water resistant tent or other item then the recipe is sufficient, adding a second coat will make the canvas or cloth heavier and stiff making it more cumbersome to carry. Even with a single coating the cloth will be stiff. I work the dried oil cloth to make it more flexible and pack easier, with no loss of water resistance.

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## buffcleb

I was wondering... have you found that after treatment rodents are deterred from making holes... I was thinking that perhaps some lingering tastes would make them think twice... we have had a heck of a time with rodents in our regular blue tarps...

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## jjodrey

Thanks, Karl,

Yes, I am intending it for a different use; a floor cloth. I'm happy with the single coat/dip, for the most part, but was also curious about how a second coat/dip would work. Haven't found any other instructions (so far) for floor cloths, so I've just been using this one, which works great.

Kind regards,
Jill

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## tnpetty

Oh shoot. I just soaked my cloth with raw linseed oil before reading this post. Will it still work? What is the difference? Thanks!

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## tnpetty

> Oh shoot. I just soaked my cloth with raw linseed oil before reading this post. Will it still work? What is the difference? Thanks!


I should also add that I mixed with Turpenoid at a the 1:1 ratio.

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## Rick

I can't help you. Hopefully KyRat or someone will be along and can give you some advice. I will say don't fold it up. Leave it hanging. Linseed oil will spontaneously ignite if the material is folded over on itself and crumpled up. It will generate enough heat to ignite.

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## hunter63

> I can't help you. Hopefully KyRat or someone will be along and can give you some advice. I will say don't fold it up. Leave it hanging. Linseed oil will spontaneously ignite if the material is folded over on itself and crumpled up. It will generate enough heat to ignite.


Yes it will....neighbors garage went up after he finished the wood work in prep for selling his house.......new owner got a new garage.

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## M.Demetrius

I'd wonder about dyeing oilcloth AFTER waterproofing.  If you could, it wouldn't really be waterproofing, eh?

You can get a fiberglas panel for a stove pipe from Panther Primitives (pantherprimitives.com) that can be sewn into a wall of your tent.  The fiberglas does not burn, and diffuses the heat of the stovepipe.  It's not recommended to put the smoke pipe through the roof, though some have done that (potential rain leak).  The PP stove panels come with a waterproof flap that can be tied shut when the stovepipe is not installed.

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## hunter63

> I'd wonder about dyeing oilcloth AFTER waterproofing.  If you could, it wouldn't really be waterproofing, eh?
> 
> You can get a fiberglas panel for a stove pipe from Panther Primitives (pantherprimitives.com) that can be sewn into a wall of your tent.  The fiberglas does not burn, and diffuses the heat of the stovepipe.  It's not recommended to put the smoke pipe through the roof, though some have done that (potential rain leak).  The PP stove panels come with a waterproof flap that can be tied shut when the stovepipe is not installed.


I have a smaller lodge (wall tent) now, but my big one had the smoke hole w/insert and flap installed when made. worked fine.

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## M.Demetrius

You can order just the rain flap and smoke hole insert.  Any canvas tent could be retrofitted.  They will not sell one installed for any tent that isn't flame retardant.  (And flame retardant is only sensible, even though it costs more.  I saw a ACW wedge tent literally burn to the ground in two minutes flat.  Since then, only FR for me.)  

I suppose, but am not recommending, that the insert could be installed in a tent that was not flame retardant.  Fire plus canvas with air on both sides is not a great combo, though, for the longevity of the tent and its inhabitants.

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## gohammergo

Question about this method. I have a canvas pack that I would like to do, but it has zippers on it and buckles. Will this gum up the zippers? I was thinking about soaking the pack in the solution to saturate it and then hang to dry. Will the interior dry fairly quick or will it stay wet for a long time? I mentioned this to my wife, and she said her grandpa used to do the same treatment to his old canvas tent.

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## randyrandy

Yes linseed oil spontaneously combusts. I know, I've done it. I threw some rags with the oil on them in a trailer to take to the dump. Later the next day my daughter said when she got home from school the trailer was on fire and she had to use the garden hose to put it out. 

I do have a question about washing the items that have been treated. (I was thinking bout waterproofing jeans.)
Can canvas or denim be laundered without ruining the waterproofing?

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## randyrandy

I was thinking bout waterproofing jeans.
Can canvas or denim be laundered without ruining the waterproofing?

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## Sparky93

> Question about this method. I have a canvas pack that I would like to do, but it has zippers on it and buckles. Will this gum up the zippers? I was thinking about soaking the pack in the solution to saturate it and then hang to dry. Will the interior dry fairly quick or will it stay wet for a long time? I mentioned this to my wife, and she said her grandpa used to do the same treatment to his old canvas tent.


For waterproofing a canvas pack you may want to look into waxing it, I have a canvas possibles bag I've been wanting to wax. If you search "how to wax canvas" on YouTube there are a few good videos.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

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## Whitechapel

I know of another method of oilskinning; it was effective, but really stiff.
Anyone have any luck with the beeswax/linseed oil method of oil skinning, and it coming out decently pliable?

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## blckwlfny1

hello all!
this is my first post
I tried the 50/50 recipe on a zelbahn, (canvas triangle poncho, shelter quarter) I have had it hanging for about two days now and it is still....well... oily.  Its not gummy, but how long does it take for the oiliness to disperse....should I do something else?
any suggestions would be appreciated thanks

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## kyratshooter

Leave it hanging for two or three weeks.  It is usable at this point but will not be completely cured for at least two weeks.  It is also best to hang it in the shade for the slow cure.  Do not fold it up and try to store it for at least two weeks.

It will still feel slick even when cured, but it will not spontaneously combust after curing.

Things took longer "back in the day".

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## blckwlfny1

thanks....I was abt 24 hours from washing it with dish soap to get rid of the excess oil

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## Trader Tut

Hello the camp, Worked as wrangler for ADK Packtrain Hunting Service in Cold River, 1966, we used this recipe on all canvas when camp was setup used by self many times since.   Trader Tut

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## Acska83

> Do not use the cheap 8oz canvas tarps,  their weave is too open and they never close up.  The best way to prep it is wash it in hot water and dry it on hot setting.


If not an 8oz, is 10oz preferred or would it need to be 12oz?

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## kyratshooter

Yes, 12 oz is preferred.

You can also use other close weave fabrics like heavy broadcloth or denim.  I have even treated cotton bed sheets successfully.  Just try to choose fabric that shows very little light through the weave and shrink it before treating it if possible.  

Hot water wash, hot rinse and a hot dryer.

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## Acska83

> Yes, 12 oz is preferred.
> 
> You can also use other close weave fabrics like heavy broadcloth or denim.  I have even treated cotton bed sheets successfully.  Just try to choose fabric that shows very little light through the weave and shrink it before treating it if possible.  
> 
> Hot water wash, hot rinse and a hot dryer.



As for applying the boiled linseed + mineral spirits, does the material need to be hung to apply the solution or can it be lying on the ground. I know from reading, it needs to be hung to ensure proper drying.

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## kyratshooter

You will lose a lot of your solution if you spread the fabric on the ground.  you will also have a big cleanup mess.  

I usually hung the fabric from a line and started painting the solution on with a brush, starting at the top.  

As the top level saturates gravity pulls the solution down and by the time you get to the bottom it is already wet and you find yourself doing touchups.  

Another method I have used and prefer is using a pump up garden sprayer from the garden center.  You put the solution in the tank, pump it up and spray the fabric like you were spraying for bugs.  It makes reaching the top of big pieces of fabric easier too.  The wand allows you to spray areas 10-15 feet up in the air, and some of the tarps I have done were big.

I would usually spray, wait overnight and spray again to insure coverage, then let it cure for a couple of weeks.

Do all this outside because it is going to drip and make a mess.  It will also kill the grass where it drips. 

You also do not want the smell indoors.

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## Acska83

> You will lose a lot of your solution if you spread the fabric on the ground.  you will also have a big cleanup mess.  
> 
> I usually hung the fabric from a line and started painting the solution on with a brush, starting at the top.  
> 
> As the top level saturates gravity pulls the solution down and by the time you get to the bottom it is already wet and you find yourself doing touchups.  
> 
> Another method I have used and prefer is using a pump up garden sprayer from the garden center.  You put the solution in the tank, pump it up and spray the fabric like you were spraying for bugs.  It makes reaching the top of big pieces of fabric easier too.  The wand allows you to spray areas 10-15 feet up in the air, and some of the tarps I have done were big.
> 
> I would usually spray, wait overnight and spray again to insure coverage, then let it cure for a couple of weeks.
> ...


Thanks for the help!

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## Highlonesome

Great info. glad this thread was renewed again.

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## Lamewolf

If you can still get it, "Japan drier" works quicker and better for boiled linseed oil than mineral spirits.

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## kyratshooter

Japan drier creates a hard surface much like a lacquered coating and is not suitable for tarps.

It's primary use is for glazing surfaces.

Back in the old days there were several agents that could be used including silver dioxide and lead oxide, which speeded up the drying process.  They are not legal any more.  

The mineral spirits work really well, they just require drying time and some things are worth the wait, especially if you need a traditional piece of equipment for a historic camp.

You can also add pigments to the linseed/mineral spirit mix, just like paint.  In the old days paint was linseed oil, pigment and one of the dryers that is now illegal.  Been illegal since the 1970s.

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## randyt

I've often wondered if linspeed oil is japan drier and linseed oil

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## kyratshooter

That is probably what it is.  I am not sure either.

I have always used the straight boiled linseed oil on the Ky rifles I have built.  It works from inside the wood as it is absorbed and makes the finish radiate from inside rather than laying on the surface of the wood.  

It takes a couple of weeks to get a good linseed oil finish.  Rub it in, wait a couple of days, rub another coat in and keep on doing that until it reaches the glow you desire.

When you build a rifle you can not often tell exactly how much figure is in the wood until you start rubbing the linseed oil into it.  What looked like a plain stock or one with only a little figure will burst with grain and swirl in the wood when the oil is rubbed in.

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## randyt

> That is probably what it is.  I am not sure either.
> 
> I have always used the straight boiled linseed oil on the Ky rifles I have built.  It works from inside the wood as it is absorbed and makes the finish radiate from inside rather than laying on the surface of the wood.  
> 
> It takes a couple of weeks to get a good linseed oil finish.  Rub it in, wait a couple of days, rub another coat in and keep on doing that until it reaches the glow you desire.
> 
> When you build a rifle you can not often tell exactly how much figure is in the wood until you start rubbing the linseed oil into it.  What looked like a plain stock or one with only a little figure will burst with grain and swirl in the wood when the oil is rubbed in.


Do you apply paste wax after the finish is complete?

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## Lamewolf

> Japan drier creates a hard surface much like a lacquered coating and is not suitable for tarps.
> 
> It's primary use is for glazing surfaces.
> .


I've not had any problems with it on tarps and its all I've ever used !

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## kyratshooter

> Do you apply paste wax after the finish is complete?


A linseed oil finish is never complete, you rub more oil in periodically to restore the glow.

I have never followed with any type wax.

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## randyt

> A linseed oil finish is never complete, you rub more oil in periodically to restore the glow.
> 
> I have never followed with any type wax.


are the original brown bess and trade guns left in the raw for the most part?

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## kyratshooter

Most muskets were furnished with scraped finish and an oil application started.  The mixture was usually linseed and soot to give a black finish.  Metal was left in the white.

Trade guns were a diverse assortment.  Some were oiled, some were stained and some were painted.  Yep Painted!

The factor that determined the finish on the trade gun was the local preference and the purpose of the gun.  Some of the presentation trade guns were finely finished and appointed.  

Long history on the "trade gun" too.  The form, a good rugged gun made to a standard pattern at a reasonable price, started with the Iroquois and the Creek tribes in the late 1600s, almost as soon as the flintlock became universal.  The Hudson Bay Company put in their order for the last "trade gun" in 1913.

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## randyt

thanks for the info

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## Jpflier

Well, I started to make a oil cloth tarp. I am putting in grommets instead of tie loops, I know not historically correct, but this one will be used on the back of my truck as part of a quick tent/rack frame for truck camping.  I am sowing in fabric reinforcement for the grommets, don't have a working sowing machine so am using a speedy awl.  It's not to hard, but I'm pretty slow at it. For cloth I am trying a drop cloth, 8oz, that has been shrunk, started as 9x12 and is now measuring 8'2"x11'3". So a question I have is when I get to putting the oil on does it work better to brush/roll it on?  From what I have seen from others tries at this size when they tried to soak it in a bucket it ended up not being very even.  Open to any suggestions. Thanks

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## kyratshooter

If you read the entire thread you will find that we recommend either brushing on the oil while the tarp is hanging or spraying it on.  You can get a cheap brush for $2 at Walmart, Lowes or Home Depot.

You will be disappointed with an 8oz tarp, the weave is not close enough to shed water.  Tarp sizes are always given as unfinished size before the edges are rolled and sewn so the measurements you give show only an inch or two of shrinkage.   Even after treatment rain will come through the fabric as a mist each time a drop hits the canvas.  Even preshrunk the 8oz is not a tight weave and you can still see holes in the weave when you look at light through it.

You will then declare the whole process worthless and be back here telling us how the linseed oil mix does not work.

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## Jpflier

Thanks for the reply, I missed your recommendation on brushing.  I have since re read.  I am using  the 8oz because that is what a I had, free, from some that bought some and then didn't want them when they moved.  I know the size started out at 8'7"x 11'6" so I know that the shrinkage was minimal.  I have low expectations for this to be all that successful so I should be happy with it. :Yes:

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## Acska83

I took a heavy (found to be double sided) canvas shirt (hot wash with hot dryer) to use as a Spring/Summer rain jacket and created/applied an eyeballed 50/50 mixture via brush. I didn't think about it applying like layers of paint and I did 2-3 layers. The center of the back is awfully shinny (my mistake). But I will say I've given it a hose test and the chest pocket holds water I noticed.  :Smile:  I think it passes the test to say the least. My new question, this shirt has been hanging outside for a few weeks now and still has a smell. What might fix that? More time? It's been hanging in the shade. Also, with the stiffness, will wear and tear be the key to loosening it up? Thanks for all help.

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## kyratshooter

Sounds like you should have thinned the mix a little.

It should wear in with time, and the smell does go away.

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## Acska83

> Sounds like you should have thinned the mix a little.
> 
> It should wear in with time, and the smell does go away.



To cover or rid the smell quicker, would there be any reason spraying something like Fabreeze would be I'll advised?

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## kyratshooter

I do not see any reason some Fabreeze would hurt the cured cloth.

I am blessed with a sorry sense of smell and seldom notice any stink from the oilcloth.  For all I know it might be unbearable to another person.

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## Acska83

Thanks for the reassurance. I can smell it inside but my wife more-so. I'll do that and see if it helps.  I guess it would have to be reapplied if it washes off in the rain.

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## Rick

The sun's UV rays can cure a lot of things. You might try hanging it in the sun and see if the UV might kill the smell.

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## Wendy

> Sparky asked about making oil cloth so here goes.  There are lots of recipes available but most of them do not work well.  This recipe works and is quick.
> 
> First you need to prep your cloth.  100% cotton works best.  You can get canvas at Walmart, or by a canvas painters tarp at the Paint store or Harbor freight.  Do not use the cheap 8oz canvas tarps,  their weave is too open and they never close up.  The best way to prep it is wash it in hot water and dry it on hot setting.  This shrinks the fabric and closes the weave. 
> 
> Next you need to mix some simple chemicals.  You will need one quart of mineral spirits (You are not wanting mineral oil.  Mineral oil will not work), which is available as paint thinner at Lowes, Home Depot or any paint store.  You will also need a quart of boiled linseed oil.  It is available at the same place.  If you go to Sherin Williams or Porter paints you can get tarp and chemicals at the same stop.
> 
> Mix the mineral spirits and linseed oil 50/50.  Shake it up good.  You need the combination of chemicals.  The linseed oil waterproofs the fabric and the mineral spirits allow the oil to dry.  If you use straight linseed oil the fabric will never dry and will remain oily and sticky forever.  (At this point you can also add pigmint if you want color in the tarp.)
> 
> Hang your prepared tarp from a clothesline or the back yard fince and paint it with the solution.  Make sure it is saturated well.  Leave the tarp hanging untill it dries.  With the 50/50 mixture it will take about 48 hours.  It will take the smell about a week to disperse.  
> ...


Can I use mineral turpentine to mix with the linseed oil? Does it have to be boiled linseed oil or can I use raw linseed oil?

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## kyratshooter

Boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits/paint thinner, 50/50 mix.

Turpentine will usually rot the fabric.

Why is this so hard for people to accept?  Is it completely impossible for the American people to just accept an instruction and not think they should have a dozen options.   

Why does everyone want to change the recipe that has worked for decades?  

"Yes it works but what if....?"

Makes me feel like I am back in the classroom again explaining to some kid that they should not drink paint, and they keep looking at me and saying "but what if....?"

"Doctor my throat hurts, can you give me some of that medicine that worked so well last time?"

"No patient, I think I will play around with the malady and give you something that will make you crap uncontrollably for a week and has nothing to do with your sore throat!" 

I know, I know, you just thought you would ask, and you did.

The answer is NO.  

Use boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits/paint thinner in a 50/50 mix.

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## crashdive123

Yeah, but what if............. :Innocent:  :Whistling:

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## Rick

Go easy. Wendy is from Namimbia and may not have access to the boiled stuff. Sometimes, we ask because of what is available.

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## hunter63

Some had their corn flakes wizzed in?....LOL

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## kyratshooter

Sorry, I had just finished a conversation with a (political reference) supporter when I answered previously and had been dealing with newspeak, revised history, the definition of what the word IS-IS, and a thought process composed completely of sound bites.

We will now answer the question with a special reference to location.

If you are in Namibia and use the wrong stuff it won't work. (they get what, 2" of rain a year? They build houses from mud!)

If you are in Dallas and use the wrong stuff it will not work.

If you are in New York City and use the wrong stuff it will not work.

If you are in Serbia and use the wrong stuff it will not work.

If you are anywhere on planet Earth and use the wrong stuff it will not work.

50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits is what works. 

But what if you do not have those things?

Then it will not work.  

Sorry, but some things just do not work and you can not make them work just because you do not have the right stuff.

And just because you used what you had does not mean that it absolutely has to work.  (That is a thing common on the British survival forums, making do with what you have and _it will just have to work_ .  It does not have to work and they find themselves floating down the river on the roof of a burning house more times than not.)

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## Rick

I am fortunate to be in the good ole USA. I have never, not once, ever floated down the river on the roof of a burning house. My heart goes out to the Brits though.

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## hunter63

> I am fortunate to be in the good ole USA. I have never, not once, ever floated down the river on the roof of a burning house. My heart goes out to the Brits though.


Check with the Brits ....tomorrow......

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## randyt

can we use boiled flaxseed oil if that all we have?

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## kyratshooter

After thorough consideration I will agree to the use of boiled flax seed oil instead of boiled linseed oil if that is all you have.

But that is the only substitution allowed.

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## andrevw111

Hi kyratshooter

Is there any reason why this oilskin method wouldn't work on a pair of cotton pants? I've got a pair that I was looking to turn into oilskins for riding on the motorbike in light rain..

Thanks,

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## Wendy

Many thanks Sparky for your recipe for oil cloth. I get it, use BOILED linseed oil and only BOILED linseed oil. Plus paint thinners  not turps otherwise the material will rot! !! We are quite sophisticated here in Namibia and we do get both products.I've got a sample I've done, hanging on the line.  Seeing as we only get 2 mls of rain a year, it should dry very quickly?  I'll let you know what happens. 
Love this site.
Wendy

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## kyratshooter

> Hi kyratshooter
> 
> Is there any reason why this oilskin method wouldn't work on a pair of cotton pants? I've got a pair that I was looking to turn into oilskins for riding on the motorbike in light rain..
> 
> Thanks,


It will work but you will not want to wear it against your skin.  Least I never did, don't like the texture after treatment.  I have used it on outer wear.  

I do have some documentation of a unit commander during Lord Dunmore's War requiring his men to have at least one heavy linen shirt treated in this way for use as a raincoat for use in the wilderness.  That was in the 1760s when wilderness was really wilderness.

Wendy, if you only get 2 mills of rain each year why are you bothering to waterproof fabric?  It seems a sun shade/shelter would be your primary concern.

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## cylon

Great thread, thanks guys!

Incidentally it was a google search and this thread that led me to this great forum.  :Wink:

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## hunter63

> Great thread, thanks guys!
> 
> Incidentally it was a google search and this thread that led me to this great forum.


Happens a lot around here.......
Seems this thread has drawn in 8 or 10 new members that joined just to respond to this thread......
Good to know the subject is still popular.

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## kyratshooter

You think if I did one on "tin cloth" we could capture a few more?

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## cylon

Hey guys a question.

Is mineral spirits and white spirit the same thing? I think it is but we don't have mineral spirit here in Oz!

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## cylon

> Happens a lot around here.......
> Seems this thread has drawn in 8 or 10 new members that joined just to respond to this thread......
> Good to know the subject is still popular.


Considering how expensive/difficult it is to get a decent bushcrafting tarp its hardly surprising that folks have thought "bugger it" and decided to make it themselves....

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## kyratshooter

> Hey guys a question.
> 
> Is mineral spirits and white spirit the same thing? I think it is but we don't have mineral spirit here in Oz!


Yep, it is the same thing.

Also known as solvent naphtha.

Generally it is sold under the label "paint thinner" over here and is a substitute for old fashioned turpentine.

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## cylon

> Yep, it is the same thing.
> 
> Also known as solvent naphtha.
> 
> Generally it is sold under the label "paint thinner" over here and is a substitute for old fashioned turpentine.


Outstanding, cheers mate!  :Smile: 

I'll give it a crack and see how she turn out. There may be pics or a thread out of this....  :Wink:

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## kyratshooter

Hey Cylon watch for  PM.

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## cylon

> Hey Cylon watch for  PM.


Got it mate, reply incoming!  :Wink:

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## TheFoge

I was wondering if this recipe could be used on heavy twill fabric like that used on Carhartt, Dickie, Wolverine, etc jackets/vests. I like the look of (not to mention functionality of) oilskin. My concern is with the fabric being not as tight a weave it will soak through and ruin the Sherpa lining (which these days is polyester). Maybe there is a better suggestion?

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## kyratshooter

It will soak through and saturate the lining on a pre-made garment.

However, it will work on cotton twill or other fabrics such as denim, twill, duck or lightweight fabrics such as bed sheeting.

For garments I would suggest a tin-cloth treatment.  I am working on the recipe as we speak.  I have developed a good recipe but it is going to be time intensive and the patience factor will get to some folks.  

Even the tin-cloth treatment is going to ruin the fuzzy linings such as fleece.  If the garment is lined with regular cloth it will simply saturate the lining like the outer shell and one could break it in as they wear the item.

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## TheFoge

That sounds interesting Man!  I look forward to reading about that.  Is there any weatherproofing that you can think of that you WOULD use on something lined?  The commercial stuff just stinks in my opinion and I've got some stuff that could use it for those rainy mountain mornings...

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## kyratshooter

Looks like you are stuck with Scotch Guard or Camp Dry.

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## cylon

IMG_3902.jpgIMG_3904.jpg

Easiest project ever.

Cost me about thirty bucks in materials including the sheet that i used and less than twenty minutes of work all up. 

Was dry in two days and tested with a hose and worked well in repelling and shedding water, it'll never be as good as a shop bought uber swish tarp but for what it cost and the work involved, i'm more than happy!  :Big Grin:

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## Jae

QUICK DRY QUESTION : I asked my roofer about the ammonia smell in the elastomeric ... he said the more ammonia the faster it dry's.   I've used it now in other painting experiments and have been pleased.  Do any of you chemist/ experimenters know if ammonia added to the 50/50 recipe in this thread would be dangerous ? .... before I try it.

NOTE ON THOSE CHEAP BLUE TARPS : ... and it doesn't matter what you pay for them, UV eats them up in no time flat.  I lay mine on the ground and roll on elastomeric.  I've been using a Dollar Store one for several years now as a covering outside.  I'm in sever Arizona heat & UV. It's been GREAT not to replace tarps every time I turn around !

Thank You for all your post...keep making new memories !  Jae

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## kyratshooter

You can add anything to it you wish.  *You will screw it up*, but you can add anything you wish.  

And do not modify the instruction or contents and come back here or run to another forum and claim the recipe you got here did not work!

If you want quicker drying time use a higher mineral spirit to linseed oil ratio. Mineral spirits are the dryer in this formula, but if you do not have enough oil you defeat the purpose and God only knows what ammonia will do to the blend.

You are still going to have several days drying time and a week or two for getting the smell out. 

Adding anything to this mix is guaranteed to screw it up in some way.

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## Jae

Thank you ! and  :2:  Love the attitude

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## kyratshooter

> Thank you ! and  Love the attitude


The attitude comes from being a teacher for 35 years in an era when every student thinks there is an exception to every rule and they are it!

You give instructions/rules and the first thing that happens is some student, never one of the genesis, raises their hand an asks, "But what if?"

It overflows to here.

You give the simplest instructions; 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits-hang it in the shade for a week, and you get 108 posts asking "But what if???"

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## Wendy

Just tried painting the oil cloth mixture onto a large outdoor cushion cover.what a missinon.  It wouldn't soak into the material of canvas. Pegged it up first, couldn't penetrative matrial.  Lay it flat on table also didn't work. So found big enough container and dipped it in. Worked well but how the he'll can one dip a Tent??!!
Will wait for 2 weeks for it to dry to see how water proof it Is! Has anyone tried using a sponge to apply the mixture to the material/canvas?
It's hanging on the line, just thought maybe the small bit I had to turn overy to peg it up might ignite in our 36 ° Temps here?

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## edr730

I remember older people using a mix like that on tents and things. I never knew what was in it except wax and was often curious about it. I have seen some white wax toilet rings tho.

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## kyratshooter

> Just tried painting the oil cloth mixture onto a large outdoor cushion cover.what a missinon.  It wouldn't soak into the material of canvas. Pegged it up first, couldn't penetrative matrial.  Lay it flat on table also didn't work. So found big enough container and dipped it in. Worked well but how the he'll can one dip a Tent??!!
> Will wait for 2 weeks for it to dry to see how water proof it Is! Has anyone tried using a sponge to apply the mixture to the material/canvas?
> It's hanging on the line, just thought maybe the small bit I had to turn overy to peg it up might ignite in our 36 ° Temps here?


Your cushion cover was probably already treated with some waterproof system.  Fabric problem, not a chemical problem.

On normal untreated fabric it will soak and penetrate the fibers with no problem at all.  I have used it many times to re-treat tents that had lost their waterproofing and had no problems when applying with a paintbrush.

Cylon even applied it with a garden pressure sprayer.



The wax toilet rings are for over in the tin-cloth thread.

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## Monel

I just had to register to comment on this thread.

First off raw linseed oil is the same as Flax Oil.  In other words, Linseed oil is what dribbles out when you compress Flax Seeds. Given enough time it will polymerize (NOT DRY by evaporation of components) into a hard film. The polymerization gives off heat, which is why oily rags if left in a pile can generate and retain enough heat to spontaneously combust. Raw linseed oil is also a mildew magnate because it contains impurities (sugars and starches) that result from pressing the Flax seeds that the mildew then happily feeds on.

In the olden days raw linseed oil was boiled before using because it reduced the "drying" (polymerization) time and also purified the oil a bit so that it was less attractive to mildew. It frequently had metallic agents (catalysts) added to it to decrease the "drying" (polymerization) time. The commonly used lead oxide also made it very mildew resistant. Unfortunately the most effective agents are also the most toxic and are no longer used.

Nowadays, what you can buy at Home Depot that is labeled "Boiled Linseed Oil" is not really raw boiled linseed oil. It is raw linseed oil that has various chemicals (catalysts) added to it that decrease the "drying" (polymerization) time.

You can buy real raw linseed oil, or raw boiled linseed oil here:

solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm#linseedoil

but don't believe them when they say it is mildew free or resistant. It is not, spoken from experience.

All of these products remain flammable, even when "dried", as does plain cotton fabric.

Now, because I have never been able to simply follow a recipe or color within the lines, I am experimenting with the tried and true recipe using borax to fireproof the oilskin. I have mixed up a super-saturated batch of borax and water that I wetted out the cotton with and once dry will then coat with 50/50 mineral spirits/commercial boiled linseed oil. I'll report back some day.

If it works, even if it doesn't, I might spring for some of the Allback raw boiled linseed oil for my oilcloth tarp just to keep its simple, old fashioned, and non-toxic. I'll just have to be very cautions about putting it away wet to keep the mildew at bay.

Best regards,

Monel

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